Re: Problems getting up on plane
If the prop used to work then I would try everything else before a new prop unless I've dinged the old one. If the mechanic did a compression test I assume that it is fine or he would have told you. It makes no sense to just switch props.<br /><br />There is a bunch of stuff you can do yourself. For some of them you need to get her back on land.<br /><br />Everything others have said is worth checking out.<br /><br />Definitely pull your prop to inspect it and change your lower unit oil. If your old lower unit oil is milky that signifies water and there may be a problem in there. If it has metal shavings in the oil then you can guess that's bad. A change in sound when shifting gear might mean something, but it might just means your motor is getting older but still runs fine thank you very much. My knees make a new sound these days when I sit down too.<br /><br />How thick is the bottom paint? Do you fully sand it down before repainting? An uneven build up of bottom paint can be bad. Little bumps and ridges here and there can cause surprising drag on a planing hull.<br /><br />I assume the motor used to run at higher rpm, but did it run at the recommended rpm range? If it was underrevving before you may be "Coked up" which is the opposite thing for a motor as for a human. You get a build up of carbon inside the engine if you don't run at full revs. This costs you power and rpm and then it gets more coked and it becomes a vicious cycle. Force outboards seem to have a talent for this problem, so maybe what you need to do is decarbonize. Try Sea-foam or other product available at a marina that you put in your gas. <br /><br />Try pumping the fuel line bulb when running at w-o-t to see if that increases your revs, which would indicate a fuel starvation problem.<br /><br />Still nothing? You need to find out if there is water under your decks in the foam. If the boat is moored half a year it could get in from rain, a tiny hull leak, or a through hull fitting (check the seal around your drain plug). If there are any deck hatches that access the foam check it out. If not, one good trick short of cutting a hole is to strip everything out of the boat buy the motor and take it to a truck way scale station. Weigh it then launch it and weigh your empty trailer. Then subtract your trailer weight and motor weight (ask a dealer) and see if the result is anywhere near what your boat is supposed to weigh according to the maker. A small amount of water in the foam will add up to hundreds of pounds.
