Jungleboat
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2010
- Messages
- 78
Not sure if this is in the right section but I'll try...
Just what is it about a fouled prop that prevents the engine from re-starting, makes something 'very hot' and which can be cured by hotwiring something on the engine with a pair of pliers?
I have a general understanding of how engines work but none of that makes any sense to me. If it happens again I can't be sure I'll be 15 yards away from my local boat ramp, so I need to know:
Launched my 'new' boat the other day, with it's Evinrude 200 V6. To me this pretty old engine is entirely new. It's been fully reconditioned but it's a stranger to me.
Some dribbling moron had placed a fishing net directly across the ramp exit area, meaning that while reversing away from the ramp the engine stalled out.
I didn't realize at first it was a fouled prop and just put it back into neutral and tried to re-start. However all I got was a bit of a clicking sound.
Flat battery right? So I opened up the seat to switch to the other battery when I realised the guy fitting the engine had left the switch on 'Both'... Ouch.
Well happily I'd travelled such a short distance after I'd cut the net off my father in law was able to wade in, catch a thrown rope and pull the boat back. Now this is the bit that confuses me:
We called the local boat mechanic that fitted this engine, telling him both batteries were flat. He turns up, tries starting the engine, removes the engine cover and then grabs my fishing pliers and does something, something that causes the engine to roar into life.
So the batteries were NOT flat.
He said someone about "panas" which means hot.
He couldn't mean the engine itself because that had been running for no more than about 1 minute if that, just long enough to tick over steadily and then reverse less than 20 yards. Yes, the lower end was in the water at all times.
I tried getting my father in law to explain what exactly the problem had been and what exactly the guy did to overcome the problem but the language barrier was too high and my father in law knows absolutely nothing about engines.
My impression is that the mechanic used the pliers to short-circuit something electrical, because he started the engine *without* me turning the key.
So I'm hoping at least one of you experienced boaters out there can explain this to me?
I'm assuming, and I may be an *** for doing so, that the OMC remote unit on this boat is the same as my old one, in that you cannot start the engine if in gear. That it tried, with a loud click, means the boat WAS in neutral, right? The mechanic couldn't start it either, despite wiggling the gear selector, until he removed the engine cover.
I'm thinking in terms of a car or motorbike - if you stall you just put the thing in neutral and start the engine again. I can't see how a fouled prop prevents that? I COULD understand if the engine re-started and kept stopping each time I put it in gear; that would make sense - but she wouldn't start at all, in neutral?
Cheers,
JB
Just what is it about a fouled prop that prevents the engine from re-starting, makes something 'very hot' and which can be cured by hotwiring something on the engine with a pair of pliers?
I have a general understanding of how engines work but none of that makes any sense to me. If it happens again I can't be sure I'll be 15 yards away from my local boat ramp, so I need to know:
Launched my 'new' boat the other day, with it's Evinrude 200 V6. To me this pretty old engine is entirely new. It's been fully reconditioned but it's a stranger to me.
Some dribbling moron had placed a fishing net directly across the ramp exit area, meaning that while reversing away from the ramp the engine stalled out.
I didn't realize at first it was a fouled prop and just put it back into neutral and tried to re-start. However all I got was a bit of a clicking sound.
Flat battery right? So I opened up the seat to switch to the other battery when I realised the guy fitting the engine had left the switch on 'Both'... Ouch.
Well happily I'd travelled such a short distance after I'd cut the net off my father in law was able to wade in, catch a thrown rope and pull the boat back. Now this is the bit that confuses me:
We called the local boat mechanic that fitted this engine, telling him both batteries were flat. He turns up, tries starting the engine, removes the engine cover and then grabs my fishing pliers and does something, something that causes the engine to roar into life.
So the batteries were NOT flat.
He said someone about "panas" which means hot.
He couldn't mean the engine itself because that had been running for no more than about 1 minute if that, just long enough to tick over steadily and then reverse less than 20 yards. Yes, the lower end was in the water at all times.
I tried getting my father in law to explain what exactly the problem had been and what exactly the guy did to overcome the problem but the language barrier was too high and my father in law knows absolutely nothing about engines.
My impression is that the mechanic used the pliers to short-circuit something electrical, because he started the engine *without* me turning the key.
So I'm hoping at least one of you experienced boaters out there can explain this to me?
I'm assuming, and I may be an *** for doing so, that the OMC remote unit on this boat is the same as my old one, in that you cannot start the engine if in gear. That it tried, with a loud click, means the boat WAS in neutral, right? The mechanic couldn't start it either, despite wiggling the gear selector, until he removed the engine cover.
I'm thinking in terms of a car or motorbike - if you stall you just put the thing in neutral and start the engine again. I can't see how a fouled prop prevents that? I COULD understand if the engine re-started and kept stopping each time I put it in gear; that would make sense - but she wouldn't start at all, in neutral?
Cheers,
JB