Proper positioning of U-joint bellow

Rivergator

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
230
Wow, this bellow was installed exactly 3 years ago and maybe has seen 100 hours of time in the water. Late last summer I noticed water in the bilge and I observed it coming thru the drive shaft tunnel, knowing I had a bellow problem. At first I suspected a faulty or loose clamp or it may have slipped off its seating flange but I did not expect it to be cracked like that. Granted in the last 3 years the boat spent more time on the trailer than in the water and I was wondering if living in the deep south has something to do with it. In the summer it gets hot and muggy and I wonder if that climate took a toll on the rubber. When in the water, the condition is slightly brackish and for most of the time the bellows are not exposed to direct sunlight. I know they are not OEM but even AM can't be that crappy. But anyway, this time I spent some money on the new one, which I just got and the markings on it are rather confusing and maybe y'all have some clear answers on how they should be positioned. At the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position are the markings TOP FWD and TOP AFT which does not make sense because one will not allow the other to be top dead center unless this is just meant as a general indication what is top and what is bottom. I think I need to pay more attention to where the flat parts of the bellow are supposed to be and from what I understand the flat sides are facing towards the front and are at about 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock when properly installed. Please confirm or correct me if I am wrong. Oh btw, this is on a 1988 Alpha One Gen 1 drive. Thanks.
 

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Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,868
Wow, this bellow was installed exactly 3 years ago and maybe has seen 100 hours of time in the water. Late last summer I noticed water in the bilge and I observed it coming thru the drive shaft tunnel, knowing I had a bellow problem. At first I suspected a faulty or loose clamp or it may have slipped off its seating flange but I did not expect it to be cracked like that. Granted in the last 3 years the boat spent more time on the trailer than in the water and I was wondering if living in the deep south has something to do with it. In the summer it gets hot and muggy and I wonder if that climate took a toll on the rubber. When in the water, the condition is slightly brackish and for most of the time the bellows are not exposed to direct sunlight. I know they are not OEM but even AM can't be that crappy. But anyway, this time I spent some money on the new one, which I just got and the markings on it are rather confusing and maybe y'all have some clear answers on how they should be positioned. At the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position are the markings TOP FWD and TOP AFT which does not make sense because one will not allow the other to be top dead center unless this is just meant as a general indication what is top and what is bottom. I think I need to pay more attention to where the flat parts of the bellow are supposed to be and from what I understand the flat sides are facing towards the front and are at about 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock when properly installed. Please confirm or correct me if I am wrong. Oh btw, this is on a 1988 Alpha One Gen 1 drive. Thanks.
you are correct general top and general forward . yes flats at 9 and 3

When I did my bellows 2-3 years ago they were 18 year old OEM bellows and still were water tight. No sense using anything else
 

Rivergator

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
230
If the OEM bellows were made in the USA I would hope that they last at least 8 - 10 years. But with most stuff being made in China or somewhere else I wonder how much better the OEM parts really are, but 18 years that is incredible. You did have a good bellow there for sure! I did buy a more expensive one this time, even though still AM. Let's see how that works out. But you are right, OEM is still the best choice if I could rely on it's quality I am willing to pay the price. Let's face it, we are living in a world of universal junk.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,868
If the OEM bellows were made in the USA I would hope that they last at least 8 - 10 years. But with most stuff being made in China or somewhere else I wonder how much better the OEM parts really are, but 18 years that is incredible. You did have a good bellow there for sure! I did buy a more expensive one this time, even though still AM. Let's see how that works out. But you are right, OEM is still the best choice if I could rely on it's quality I am willing to pay the price. Let's face it, we are living in a world of universal junk.
its not where its made its is what quality standard it is made to.

Would you call an iphone junk? guess where its is made...

I wouldn't F around with anything but OEM for bellows but your call
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,168
The OEM bellows I have used on my Cobra easily last 10 years in slipped salt water use. The one I installed 9 years ago looks like new.
 

Rivergator

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
230
Ok, y'all. you made your point and I agree. OEM from now on when it comes to bellows for sure, but I already installed this new AM one and I will see if it lasts. The biggest PITA was positioning and reaching the clamps on both ends and I do have a box full of trick tools. Since the bellow was the only thing I replaced, the shift cable was in the way big time.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,168
Bellows & and impellers should be OEM, because premature failure of either gets expensive!
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,168
Since I have the OMC Cobra where you can't just go to the parts store to get things, I have a large stock of spares some of which I may never use lol! But it keeps me going and I don't miss boating season days due to a lack of parts.
 
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