Pulling Motor & Transom Replacement - hints and tips?

[Dutch_ca]

I am going to tackle the transom of my 1989 Springbok Aluminum in the next couple of weeks. This is a fully size bass-boat type set-up. I noticed a little bowing in the transom last year and checked out the wood and it seemed in pretty rough shape in spots. I have read a lot about this project on other forums and am going to tackle it like so:

Laminate at least two 3/4" marine plywood, to make at least 1.5". Yes I am using marine ply, not PT or ACX, ABX and going to pay for it. I am not playing around with $50-$100 bucks here or there when that transom holds a 300-400 pound Evinrude 150. I want to do it right, but by myself for the satisfaction. I will get the true thickness when I pull the Motor off and get a look at the existing wood.

Question 1 - Any hints/tricks at unhooking/pulling the motor off the boat? It's a 1989 Evinrude 150HP. Heavy. I have a motor lift to use (and a front-end loader it the lift isn't high enough), more worried about detaching the wires, controls etc. from the motor. Is there a place I need to hook on to the motor, or some special thing to use to lift it off the boat?

Question 2 - I have read to use 2 part epoxy to laminate the ply, running the wood in opposite directions. Where do I get the epoxy? All the stuff I have read on the web talks about US suppliers - Can I get something in Canada? Can it be gotten at Home Depot or Rona (Lowes)?I want this thing to be bullet proof when I am done.

Question 3 - Waterproof the final product made after question 2, by covering/painting with epoxy. Is this the same epoxy used in step 1? If not what do I use?

Question 4 - Re-hanging the motor. What bolts do I use and where do I get them. Do I need to torque them and to what spec? I want to use new bolts, not the originals. Do I need to do anything special to "align" it on the new and hopefully improved transom?

Any comments/hints/tips/general support is appreciated.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Robj]

Re: Pulling Motor & Transom Replacement - hints and tips?

Hello there,

On how to remove your outboard, I would suggest looking in the owners or service manual. On my 40 Merc there is an attachment that screws into the flywheel which acts as a lifting eye, not sure on your Rude.

I have not seen epoxy at the Depot or other home improvement stores. Look under plastics in your yellow pages, or you can buy them on line. Yes it can be bought in Canada, we have numerous suppliers here in Vancouver.

With regards to your bolts, I would use only stainless steel, the same size as the original, and sealant 5200 or 4200 around each hole. With torque specs maybe check your manual.

There are many people who visit this site who have done the same thing that you are and I am sure they will offer you some advice.

Good Luck and have a great day,

Rob.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Pulling Motor & Transom Replacement - hints and tips?

Dutch, You can get epoxy at many places. I do not think you will have success at the Home Despot however. You will need to look elsewhere. Do you have any discount marine stores nearby?

As for pulling the motor. I usually suspend my 300# Mercury from the garage door header. I installed a 1/2" lag bolt into the header to attach a chain. If you drop the tongue on your trailer to raise the motor up to as high as it can go, and hang the motor (there are two lifting points on your block, if I remember correctly) on heavy s hooks and chain. You can then loosen the mounting bolts and jack up the tongue of the trailer and pull the boat away.

Reuse of the engine mounting bolts is normally the way to go. If you want to replace them, use stainless bolts of the same diameter, likely 1/2", with nylon SS locknuts. Smear them with silicone before installation to seal to the transom. Mount the motor in the exact center of the transom. You should be able to get the bolts at the H-D. SS has only one grade, so don't worry about getting the wrong ones.

 

[sdunt]

Re: Pulling Motor & Transom Replacement - hints and tips?

Good 'poxy from UScomposites. One thing to note is how thick the resin is: http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

If you go with something like their 'thin' 'poxy you can use it for the laminations and the painting - sealing. If you have a thicker 'poxy you would need to thin it with acetone before you use it for coating the outsides of the wood.

There is always that debate, i and I need to get it started again , between Polyester resin - fiberglass resin and Epoxy resins. Are you going to still have this boat in 20 to 30 years when the Polyester MIGHT start to fail? Poly is also more UV resistant. If you leave Epoxy out in the sun it will yellow and degrade. Unless you varnish it and then you get to redo the coating every few years. Poly can be out in the sun w/o any need for varnish or paint to protect it.

Interesting article here about lifting smaller Outboards:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/columns/max/index3.htm

 

[iwombat]

Re: Pulling Motor & Transom Replacement - hints and tips?

Pulling the motor: Some Johny-rudes have a lift ring right there on the block just aft of the flywheel. Give it a look-see.

I made a mini-transom that bolts to a standard engine stand for big-block v-8s. You can place it from the hoist to the stand pretty easily that way. If you have an engine stand already you can practice your transom making techniques and make one for yourself. Leave enough clearance on the top so you can bolt on your transom mount above where the piece bolts onto the engine stand.

 

[Reinellchris]

Re: Pulling Motor & Transom Replacement - hints and tips?

sorry to be off topic.
Rob are you in vancouver bc?