Quality of Non-OEM Fuel Pumps? (2003 5.0 GXi, injected, all-in-one High/Low unit)

[beezel]

I may be facing down a new fuel pump, as last year I was getting "the whine" and this year I'm having issues with stumbling/hesitation at higher RPMs. I'm going down the easy route first, plugs + wires, but I am a bit worried it could be my pump going out. If the plugs don't help I'll be purchasing a tool to read the pressure and see what might really be the issue.

As you might be aware, a new OEM pump is $800+ but offbrand "OEM Replacements" are less than $300. Anyone have any luck with those? As every boat owner, I'm strapped for cash and want to be out there feeling safe and confident about my boat!

 

[alldodge]

No first hand VP knowledge, but if the pump puts out 40 psi controlled, or 60 psi uncontrolled, its fine. Airtex makes the high and low pressure marine pumps

 

[BRICH1260]

I was not aware there were aftermarket whole unit assemblies available. I know the HP pump is available by itself as I replaced mine. I took my entire assembly apart this winter, cleaned and rebuilt it. You may not need a whole unit, it may just need to be cleaned, especially the filter screens.I'd try that before purchasing new.

 

[Thalasso]

I may be facing down a new fuel pump, as last year I was getting "the whine" and this year I'm having issues with stumbling/hesitation at higher RPMs. I'm going down the easy route first, plugs + wires, but I am a bit worried it could be my pump going out. If the plugs don't help I'll be purchasing a tool to read the pressure and see what might really be the issue.

As you might be aware, a new OEM pump is $800+ but offbrand "OEM Replacements" are less than $300. Anyone have any luck with those? As every boat owner, I'm strapped for cash and want to be out there feeling safe and confident about my boat!

Your pumps are made by Carter. You can't by the low side pump by itself.but you can by the high side. The low side is what goes bad. Check the pressure. Should be around 8-10psi on the low side. You can buy a set of gauges at harbor freight pretty cheap. Usually when the pump is going out it will stumble all over itself when you throttle up. Another thing is the dist caps are prone to corrosion

 

[Fishhead-1]

I see those aftermarket fuel cells,I have purchased other atv ignition parts from caltric which is selling them. I wouldn't worry about trying them, at least I'm sure they wouldn't paint the inside of them like carter did.

 

[BRICH1260]

I just checked out the Caltric Amazon site selling those aftermarket assemblies for around $300. It looks like a like a good buy, appears to be a refurbished OEM fuel cell. If anyone has experience with these units please respond. I think there are a lot of Volvo owners that would like to keep this in mind should/if they have issues with theirs as opposed to paying out almost 1K for an OEM cell.

 

[beezel]

I was not aware there were aftermarket whole unit assemblies available. I know the HP pump is available by itself as I replaced mine. I took my entire assembly apart this winter, cleaned and rebuilt it. You may not need a whole unit, it may just need to be cleaned, especially the filter screens.I'd try that before purchasing new.

Thanks. Could you give me some insight into the tear down and rebuild? I've never done a fuel pump or any pressurized system (all my experience is with carbed applications). Are there any steps I need to take to make sure I'm not blasting fuel around like a firehose? Or is it as simple as disconnecting power and hoses, draining them, and then unbolting the assembly?

Last year I had a mechanic do my winterization/de-winterization and at the same time I had him pull the screen and replace it with the e-clip as per volvo's TSB. He told me there wasn't much debris at all in the screen. I guess it could have failed later.

 

[BRICH1260]

It was fairly straightforward. You will leak a little fuel in the process, but mine didn't spray uncontrollably. Start by disconnecting the power supply and slowly removing all incoming and outgoing lines, including the water cooling lines. I labeled mine just to make sure they all went back where they came from. Remove the unit from the block. Now be careful, as the unit is full of fuel. take the unit somewhere safe and turn it upside down to allow the fuel to drain.

Once completely drained, removed the screws holding the top and bottom to the middle body. It should pull apart with a little effort, the pumps should pull out of the housing. Once all is separated, check for loose particles in the screens and fuel holding chamber. Mine was in pretty good shape, I flushed everything with a couple cans of carb cleaner and reassembled in reverse order. I did purchase new O rings for the reinstall from a ebay vendor. I found no paint flaking to be concerned about.

 

[Daleg70]

I just purchased the Caltec unit today -- I will let you know how it goes.

 

[beezel]

I just purchased the Caltec unit today -- I will let you know how it goes.

How did that Caltec unit work out for you?