Question about 24V Trolling motor Wireing... Voltage/Amps/Distance

[Freebo]

This might intruige some... OK.. I have a 19ft tidecraft and am replacing a Pinpoint trolling system w/ a Minn kota... both 24V... looks like the PP had 2x 12V+ and 2x 12V- (approx 8ga) wires from the rear of the boat (batteries) to the front... My brother believes that we should jumper them in the back to make 24V running over 2 (one + one -) cables... I'm just curious as to which would be best.... 2 12V runs over 20ft then joined to 24v or one 20ft run of 24v......... or maybe joining both cables on each end and running 24V over those cables... ie... Mux (computer term) the reds and blacks on both ends. anybody following me? suggestions? or am I just Nuts?

 

[wifisher]

Re: Question about 24V Trolling motor Wireing... Voltage/Amps/Distance

Run it as 24V. You are doubling the amount of power (watts) you can carry with the same gauge wire. That is the reason for having a 24V motor instead of 12V. The motor will use the same amount either way. If you are going to use two wires tied together as a single wire, be sure that they are the same length so that they will share the load equally. You could just run it as 24V through a single set of wires, and have a set of spares if you ever need them. You could argue that tying them into two sets would create less voltage drop, but I do not think it would be much of a difference. If somebody wants to run the calcs and correct me, please do.

Be sure that if you decide to mux the wires together, they must be the same length in order to share the load equally.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Question about 24V Trolling motor Wireing... Voltage/Amps/Distance

The only reason boat manufacturers ran two sets of wires from the battery compartment to the bow was to accommodate combination 12/24 volt motors. The switch from 12 to 24 was done either with a jumper on the troller plug or by a switch on the foot pedal. In an attempt to simplify charging of a 24 volt system, the bow panel usually had a 12/24/Run/Charge switch. In the RUN position the entire system worked on either 12 or 24 volts (whatever was selected at the time). the Charge setting broke the series connection and made a parallel connection so both batteries could be charged through the troller receptacle from a single 12 volt charger.

In your situation, I suggest that you NOT cut or seriously modify any of the wiring. The next owner will thank you. However, if you want to to create the 24 volt connection at the batteries rather than up front that is certainly ok. You can also parallel the red & black pairs but you will have a little problem trying to stuff those two wires into a single contact at the bow receptacle.

 

[Freebo]

Re: Question about 24V Trolling motor Wireing... Voltage/Amps/Distance

Thanks Guys... appreciate the input.... As Always...

CFree

 

[Willy8lb]

Re: Question about 24V Trolling motor Wireing... Voltage/Amps/Distance

Just placed a jumper on my batteries. Issue was the boat ran 12 volt only. Tried the Run/Charge toggle with no success tried the 12/24 switch on the foot control with no success. Took my 2 Pos cables to + post on one battery, took the 2 Neg. cables to the other battery and ran a #6 jumper. Have 24 volt but no 12 volt. Could not locate a jumper in the male plug. Have not tried it in the water yet but, all 3 speeds seem to be extremely fast... Couple questions:
1) Could ther be a jumper in the 12/24 switch on the foot control or maybe the recepticle at the bow controls?
2) Should I use only one set of wires to each battery and tie the other +/- off?
3) Will this configuration damage my old OMC T/M?
Thanks