Question on ignition and plug wires

Mahoney

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Aug 2, 2004
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It has been 5 years since the boat I recieved has been in action. I got it running really well however, somehow how I have the plug wires routed and engine timed(cap turned)to where some of the wires are just barely able to reach thier contact points on the distributor. Another thing I noticed is I can hear distinct arcing to the block from at least one of the wires while running. Obviously this is not a safe settup. I plan on getting new wires. My question is how is it best to route these and what should I look out for? Over the exaust manifold? Behind?<br /><br />I am running out of water with hose hookup, blower on, windy day, and extinguisher at the ready. I may be relearning all this old engine stuff, but not crazy! 225 GM OMC
 

KaGee

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

Is that a GM engine??
 

Don S

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

You may just need to remove the distributor and turn it a couple of teeth to fit where the cap goes. Bring the engine up to #1 TDC, remove the cap and turn it to where the wires fit best, then remove the distributor and turn the rotor till it lines up with where the cap has #1 wire. Then reset the timing with a timing light. <br />If the plug wires are arching, they really need replaced before you run it again.
 

Mahoney

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

Thats what I will do then, I will take the shortest plug wire off and check for a set where thier shortest wire is a bit longer than the one I have. that should kill 2 birds with one stone. The distributor is really only 180 deg configurable as it has a screwdriver shape groove on the shaft so you cant really adjust it teeth wise.
 

Scaaty

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

Why don't you simply go get a roll of wire, new caps, and make your own? ANY cars parts store will sell and show you how. And as to any clicking/arcing, I would do a new cap too...could be cracked. And really after sitting for 5 years, I would junk everything (age) and start new. Don't save a buck and burn your boat to the waterline.
 

Don S

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

The distributor is really only 180 deg configurable as it has a screwdriver shape groove on the shaft so you cant really adjust it teeth wise.<br />
Not true! The shaft that goes into the bottom of the distributor shaft is the oil pump. Just use a screwdriver to turn it where you want it. You can usually just turn the distributor the number of teeth you want, then just bump the starter till the oil pump lines up and the distriburor drops down.
 

KaGee

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

Don's the man!<br /><br />Mahoney.... the sparking thing could be the reason you are not idling slow enough!! Engine is missing.
 

Mahoney

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

Right on Don, I would've for sure missed the distributor shaft adjustment, that will help quite a bit. I have an old Mallory yl-520-cv distributor with a flat cap female connectors, so locating new wires is a bit of a challenge. I will have to probably order a set. I replaced Points and now boat idles reasonably well ~700-800, but is still rich, I am convinced now upgrading the ignition system will bring it to where it needs to be.
 

Northern Eclipse

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Jun 24, 2003
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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

The best way I found is to run the wires from around the back and up to spark plugs below the exhaust manifolds, It looks neat and keeps any wires from laying on the block or manifolds plus its easier to keep wires seperated also.
 

KaGee

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

Originally posted by Northern Eclipse:<br /> The best way I found is to run the wires from around the back and up to spark plugs below the exhaust manifolds, It looks neat and keeps any wires from laying on the block or manifolds plus its easier to keep wires seperated also.
That's how I did mine!
 

Don S

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

As long as you still have the old plug wires on the engine, you will never get the carb adjusted properly because you aren't running on all 8 cylinders all the time.<br />If you want to really upgrade the ignition, try this:<br /> Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit <br /><br />The Prestolite electronic distributors have been used for years by Volvo
 

Mahoney

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

I think I will be upgrading, Distributor is quite old, unfortunately just in time here in Seattle for the rainy season to hit. With any luck Ill have it running smooth for Chinook season in the sound.
 

Scaaty

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

Originally posted by Don S:<br /><br />The Prestolite electronic distributors have been used for years by Volvo
You a Mallory Flat Cap Dist/Ing. Parts and Tune kits at EBasicpower.com. You say you did the points, but no mention of condenser. That little "can" can have you pulling your hair out, so always change it too. I have a Flat Cap on from 1977 thats is just fine. But if you have the money, go for the new upgrade...besides, I think you will have nothing else to do, as this rain got here about 8 weeks early this year!
 

deputydawg

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Re: Question on ignition and plug wires

If you just go with new plug wires, I would recommend against the do it yourself wires. I know a lot of people that have had good luck cutting their own, but I have found it better to buy wires made for the application. As anyone who has watched my posts I am just learning about boats, but have been a mechanic off and on for 15 years. I have found with my stock cars and drag racing engines that the do it yourself wires (especially accel) do not seal well around the boots and tend to burn away from the connectors internally. I have seen many accel hi pro wires do this, the fibers that conduct spark burn back into the insulation.<br />If you have the bucks go with the new ignition, it will give you a more precise spark and more stable ignition system. Although the old systems are good and work great, you will be much happier with the new systems (depending on how you use your engine).
 
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