Question re: pulling the cap

CWKboat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
243
Hi, I'm pulling the top cap on a 2002 Larson 210 outboard model. When winching/pulling the cap off, where are the best anchor points to place the rope? I have 1 cleat in the front, 1 on the outside of each driver/passenger seat, and then 2 on each side of the back of the hull. I also have various "grab bars," but they do not seem as study when applying more than hand presure as there is foam behind them where the backing plates are mounted. The cleats seem to the the only visible option, but I was concerned about stresses as this thing is fairly heavy as the front part has the entire front seating area/floor, as well as the driver and passenger consoles.

I have it loose, and just need to chisel some in the back as the transom cap has adhesive underneath and is being stubborn. Just want to make sure I distribute the load properly and carefully.

Thanks for suggestions!
 

Burglary5%

Cadet
Joined
May 26, 2011
Messages
27
Re: Question re: pulling the cap

I am sure you will get better expert opinions but when I did mine I got the cap loose and slid 2X4's between the cap and the hull. I then attached my lift straps to the 2X4's and lifted it right off no trouble at all. I dont know how much backing your cleats have but mine were just bolted through the fiberglass no backing at all I just didn't trust it, turns out the cap is not very heavy at all and the cleats may have worked but I figured better safe than sorry. I was also able to attach the 2X4's to my saw horses so the cap is very stable as it sits there, with my kids running around this was important to me.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Question re: pulling the cap

the above is correct....when you pull the cap....slide 2x4's under it and tie your ropes to the 2x4's

if you use the cleats...... the cap is "pressure pointed" you have a larson and the gellcoat may craze in those areas
 

CWKboat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
243
Re: Question re: pulling the cap

the above is correct....when you pull the cap....slide 2x4's under it and tie your ropes to the 2x4's

if you use the cleats...... the cap is "pressure pointed" you have a larson and the gellcoat may craze in those areas

Oops and Burglary 5%,

Thanks for the tip - I just have a follow up question: The front half of the cap has the large piece that sits down on the front half of the floor in the front seating area, so 2X4s wouldn't be able to span across the front underneath would they as the outer rub rail edge is considerably higher than the part that meets the floor?



Also, how do you lower it back down in that scenario? Same way?

Thanks
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Question re: pulling the cap

that will be a standard walk thru......its kind of a one piece thing.

place the 2x4 as far forward as you can......you can then tie a rope to the most forward point of the cap.....this is just a support line....not a lift point.

the 2x4s are the lift point.....the cap will still sit on saw horses......if the horses are too short. and the lower part of the walk thru hits the ground and has all the stress.....just raise the horses so the floor of the walk thru sits on the ground and every thing is taking equal weight.
 

CWKboat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
243
Re: Question re: pulling the cap

that will be a standard walk thru......its kind of a one piece thing.

place the 2x4 as far forward as you can......you can then tie a rope to the most forward point of the cap.....this is just a support line....not a lift point.

the 2x4s are the lift point.....the cap will still sit on saw horses......if the horses are too short. and the lower part of the walk thru hits the ground and has all the stress.....just raise the horses so the floor of the walk thru sits on the ground and every thing is taking equal weight.

Thanks that helps. So, I'm basically sliding several 8-10 ft 2X4s underneath from gunnel to gunnel from the back as far fwd as I can go, and then using the front cleat for a support line to keep the front walk thru area from dipping when lifted off?

What about when putting it back on? It seems fairly heavy, do you lower maybe the front first, and then slide the 2X4s out one at a time and fit over the cap? Just seems like they might get in the way. (I'm slowly getting this together in my mind, thanks for the patience!)
 
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