Ran into problem winterizing

[andrewterri]

2014 mercruiser 4.3 mpi ect...After reading countless posts and looking at what the manual says (or doesn't say) I went to winterize the boat by pulling the hoses off the exhaust manifolds and sticking a screw driver up there to check for rust particles blocking the drain. I was going to do the same thing with the block. Problem is there is a fitting with a 45 degree angle that the hoses attach to at the manifold so there is no way to get a screw driver up there. The hoses and fitting look like a 3/4-1". The water inlet for the block looks like it is from the water pump to the block directly as there is only one hose going into the pump. Other than using mercruiser's drain system how can I check for rust blockage? good news is the boat is stored in the garage and the house is hooked to a generator. I also have a indoor kerosene heater should those two fail to protect the garage from freezing, if it freezes than the house water lines freeze because the boat sits next to the water inlet for the house and the water tank. I do not like taking chances so if anyone can point me in the right direction I should would appreciate it.

 

[achris]

As this hoses are fairly large, it's unlikely they will block up. And you said a 45 degree fitting... IIRC, the fitting on the bottom of the manifold has a 90 degree forward facing nipple and a 45 degree rear facing nipple... The 45 degree rear facing nipple had a check valve in it, you can't push anything up there.... Pull the hose of the 90 degree forward facing nipple and probe that.

But far more important is getting the 1/4" hoses with click fittings off each side of the engine block and probing those....

Chris....

 

[alldodge]

You probably have the 3 point drain system, and if so then those are check balls. If you haven't drained the block yet, there should be some water come out when pulling the hose off the bottom of the exhaust manifold. If the block was already drained there might not be any or much

Also if you have the 3 point drain, there may be 2 hoses on the bottom of the manifold. One circulates water, and the other is used when draining, check ball in between

Here is the 3 point with a bravo drive

 

[andrewterri]

thank you guys. I did not see the 1/4" lines that go into the block. I will look down in there and find them. Is there anyway to antifreeze to the engine? It seems every line it would go into would just drain out or go into the drain system instead of the engine thereby double the amount of antifreeze needed.

 

[alldodge]

I don't know what you have, just guessing right now. If I knew I would be able to advise better

 

[andrewterri]

Three point drain w/ alpha drive

 

[Bt Doctur]

If you open the drain post and valve on the drain system ,approx 3 1/2 to 4 gallons will be seen. If not, you never drained anything and are subject to freeze damage.Where the smaller hose connects to the manifold fitting I have found that drain/check ball clogged and not draining.
Where to add the A'F is at "E" in the diagram. Remove the large hose and pour it in until it comes out the T housing, reattach hose and tighten,
Your best option is to remove the system and go back to regular plugs

 

[andrewterri]

Bt Doctur, that is exactly what I want to do. I just need to find a write up probably with pic's. I do not trust this system at all. These motor's cost to much. I had a good 5 gallons come out if I was to guess. If I pour A/F into "E" wont it just come out through the drain system or is there another check valve there? You would think the manual would tell you where to add it. All it says is to pour in A/F if you expect freezing weather during storage.

 

[alldodge]

What is your serial number so we can figure it out

 

[andrewterri]

I did what you guys said but was only about to get to the starboard side 1/4" click connector. The port side has a wall that is carrying all of the fuel and return lines on it. It did not look like there was enough hose length to take the wall down (screws) and lay it back where I could get access. I could unhook the fuel lines to get the wall down but would prefer not to do that. I disconnected the large hose at "E" and filled it with 2 1/2 gallons of A/F until it started coming out of the T housing. AllDodge my serial number is 2A176701. This hopefully will protect the boat along with it being in the garage. The previous owner did not drain the engine correctly and popped a freeze (casting) plug at 26hrs when I bought it. Major luck that he did not crack the block. The boat has 69 hours on it now and she runs great and would like to keep it that way

 

[alldodge]

I have been distracted when winterizing and forget a block plug. Doing that did pop a plug but didn't crack the block.

I
ll work up a pic for the change over and get back with. Have to go out of town today

 

[Bt Doctur]

to simply drain the manifolds simply remove the large hose from the fitting.at the bottom of the manifold. When convenient remove/cut the small hose and remove that connector from the manifold and install a standard one with the blue drain

 

[Bt Doctur]

For the block ,remove the quick connects and install these

 

[Bt Doctur]

For the hoses at the drain block simply plug them, remove and cap, or loop them back

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[alldodge]

Yours is different from the above
You might be able to remove the hose on top, but leaving it in place will not cause an issue with cooling of weatherization. Item 18 has 2 part numbers, one for Alpha and one for Bravo. No effect for yours, just noting if another looks at it later

 

[QBhoy]

Hi
o have the same system on my MPI. I drain using the single point valve and opening the blue plug on the T Stat, after running the engine up to temp

Then I watch it drain out the bottom.

Then I close the drain valve and take all hoses off the TStat

Then I pull the quick connect fittings off the block drains and pour a little antifreeze in to verify the drains are clear and not blocked. Same with manifolds and pour some in those hoses.

Then I connect all the quick connect fittings up again and fill it to the brim on the hoses. It will come back out the t stat when full and run out the drive when manifolds have enough in them.

Then re attach all the hoses and job done.

Worth noting that its had this done since new in 2003 and there has never been a single ounce of crud or corroded flakes of metal visible or blocking the drains. A testament to the reasoning behind filling with a liquid medium to reduce the oxygen in there that’s responsible for the drains blocking in the first place.

On a a similar note, just remember you can’t fog these engines the usual way. Strong mix of 2 stroke through the fuel system is the job. Not sure if you maybe mentioned that anyway.

Good luck