Raw water cooling to closed system

[LuckyPenny]

has anyone ever converted a raw water system to a closed system? What is involved?

 

[LuckyPenny]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

I should have provided more info. I have a 1977 5.7L chevy pushing an Alfa 1.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

Ayuh..........<br />FreebeTony did 1 about a year ago.......<br />Hit the Red Search Button at the top of this page....<br />Type in his name, or mine,+ You'll be able to see his pics......<br />It seems to me, I remember 1 or 2 of the Guys are doing a converstion right now........ 4.3l motor comes to mind.....<br />Are you looking to install a Kit yourself, or hire it done.........<br />Tony Scrounged his system from all over New York Harbor........ Pretty Sweet System it is too.....<br /><br />Basicly, You add a Heat Exchanger,+ Plumb to it....

 

[Richard Petersen]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

A LOT of experience or PIT BULL determination. $$ and someone who has SUCESSFULLY completed one with a similar sized and make engine. When you get those 3 together- start.

 

[garycinn]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

I am seriously considering it. I'd have to do a half system because of my odd-ball one piece manifolds. For less than $500 I can have distilled water and AF in the block vs. lake water and sand. It also gives me two less drain points in the early spring and fall to not have to drain when the temps dip low.<br /><br />Here are sites I have looked at. I talked to the guys at perfprotech and was very impressed.<br /><br /> http://i-netmarine.com/index.html <br /><br /> http://www.perfprotech.com/home/marine-cooling.htm

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

Luckypenny, You have listed your motor as a 1977 model. That motor is 25 years+ old. Isn't it a bit late to convert it? I would save and invest the $$ earmarked for the conversion, run the motor until it is dead and if you want to repower, do the FWC conversion then.

 

[Luna Sea]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

Agree with Chris1956, especially after reading you use the boat in fresh water!!!<br /><br />If you're just worried about getting sand in the motor, maybe invest in a depth finder instead?

 

[LuckyPenny]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

I realize that the engine has a few grey hairs, so do we all. I am exploring options to keep her a few more years (hopefully) and a closed system usually keeps the temp a bit more stable.

 

[Richard Petersen]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

A clean out and flush out, with a new belt, adjusted right, and a new thermostat, would really hold the temperature steady.

 

[21270]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

Im installing a full system on my 93 4.3 merc, did you ask the company if there were any downfalls to installing a system on that old of motor. I have heard of the antifreeze turning to gel due to deposits in the aged motor, please let me know.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

I did it on a '67 block, but it was part of a re-build after the block was "boiled-out".<br />Anti-freeze has not "jelled-up" yet.<br /><br />I don't know if I would go through all the bother if I was boating in fresh water...........

 

[trog100]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

i wish my old freshwater boat was indirectly cooled.. its a far better system.. but unless someone offered me all the parts free of charge on a plate i wouldnt contemplate doing a conversion job..<br /><br />cheaper and easier to treat your old engine to some new (things that go rusty) parts.. in freshwater i would guess they will last at least ten years.. mine are fifteen years old.. eleven years as an offshore salt water boat and the last four as a permanently in the water freshwater boat.. <br /><br />all major parts are original except the timing cover which rusted out last year..<br /><br />as for old engines making antfreeze go funny i recon that one belongs in the "old wives tale" department.. <br /><br />trog100

 

[qystan]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

The blocks do last. Over here its saltwater only and we have blocks with raw water cooling from the 80's that are still running. <br /><br />I was comptemplating fitting a FWC on my 89 block, but the rust bits coming off will clog it in no time. <br /><br />Certainly an item to add at the next repower.

 

[trog100]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

only ever seen one type of heat exchanger up close.. it didnt look like it would clog up very easy.. certainly not like a car radiator or heater core..<br /><br />basically it was brass.. looked like a small boiler with 1/4 inch tubes running thru it.. also some come apart for cleaning so i dont think clogging would be that much of problem.. even thow the one i looked at one didnt come apart (thow a gas torch would soon have the caps off) taking it off and blowing it clean if it did show sign of clogging would be quite easy..<br /><br />it would be the simple cost of doing it that would put me off.. but on a newer more expensive boat definitely..<br /><br />trog100

 

[Peter J Fraser]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

Hi all,<br />My motor is around 76 vintage and had been in fresh water lakes all its life until I bought it 18 months ago. However I will be using it in salt more often than not so it is being converted to fresh water cooled. It's not difficult to do but can be tricky depending on the amount of room around your engine to mount a heatexchanger. I've had to mount mine on the transom on the portside. Slightly longer pipe work but it will work.<br />Good luck.<br /><br />Peter

 

[Richard Petersen]

Re: Raw water cooling to closed system

About half way down this thread I made a simple statement about--Clean out and flush out--- If you are not familiar with automotive and marine water pump types read this and check out what i say with the PUMP manufacturer. DO NOT flush out any pump with a de-greasing type of cleaner, it also degreases the pump bearings. DO NOT use the big volume open hose type that is some time still used when the radiator is removed for repairs. It can develope enough positive pressure to push into the pump shaft seal area. I screwed up more than one pump accidently as a radiator shop helper part time in the summer.--- Drain, remove thermostat and put the cleaner in with radiator cap on the first step, that is the one were it still is sealed at a low pressure to prevent spill over. Etc. etc. I am open for other ways of doing it better.