NorCal_Skipjack20
Cadet
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2011
- Messages
- 9
Have never attempted a job like this so am looking for advice/guidance so as to do the job right yet cost effectively.
Want to be install a 1" Raw Water Intake/Thru-Hull with a External Hull-Mount Strainer and 1" Seacock with a G10/FR4 Backing Plate. Boat is a Skipjack 20 Open with 350 motor that is trailer launched and hardly ever slipped for more than a day or two at a time. Bottom thickness of hull is at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch, possibly thicker as Skipjack built these boats strong.
Parts being considered
Groco TH-1000 Bronze Thru-Hull
Groco APHS-1250-1 Bronze Hull-Mount Strainer
G10/FR4 Backing Plate 5" x 5" x 5/8"
Groco IBVF-1000 1" Bronze Flanged Mounting Base
Groco IBV-1000 1" Bronze Ball Valve
The reason for considering the IBVF-1000/IBV-1000 mounting base/ball valve combo is it's $107 less than a Groco BV-1000 Bronze Seacock. The IBV-1000 ball valve has a chrome-plated brass ball and is not serviceable vs a SS ball and serviceable aspect for the BV-1000 Seacock.
On the issue of a backing plate for the seacock assembly - I was considering the G10/FR4 material as I can get a scrap of it for a reasonable price. My question is would 3M 4200 FC be acceptable to bond the G10 down to the fiberglass in my bilge or should I use 3M 5200 or use a good two-part epoxy? Do I even need a backing plate if my hull thickness is 1/2" or thicker?
Also, I came across an alternative way of mounting the seacock/backing plate without drilling three additional 5/16 holes in the bottom of my boat. The method is shown in detail in the following link - does this seem ok or should I just drill and through-bolt? Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Want to be install a 1" Raw Water Intake/Thru-Hull with a External Hull-Mount Strainer and 1" Seacock with a G10/FR4 Backing Plate. Boat is a Skipjack 20 Open with 350 motor that is trailer launched and hardly ever slipped for more than a day or two at a time. Bottom thickness of hull is at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch, possibly thicker as Skipjack built these boats strong.
Parts being considered
Groco TH-1000 Bronze Thru-Hull
Groco APHS-1250-1 Bronze Hull-Mount Strainer
G10/FR4 Backing Plate 5" x 5" x 5/8"
Groco IBVF-1000 1" Bronze Flanged Mounting Base
Groco IBV-1000 1" Bronze Ball Valve
The reason for considering the IBVF-1000/IBV-1000 mounting base/ball valve combo is it's $107 less than a Groco BV-1000 Bronze Seacock. The IBV-1000 ball valve has a chrome-plated brass ball and is not serviceable vs a SS ball and serviceable aspect for the BV-1000 Seacock.
On the issue of a backing plate for the seacock assembly - I was considering the G10/FR4 material as I can get a scrap of it for a reasonable price. My question is would 3M 4200 FC be acceptable to bond the G10 down to the fiberglass in my bilge or should I use 3M 5200 or use a good two-part epoxy? Do I even need a backing plate if my hull thickness is 1/2" or thicker?
Also, I came across an alternative way of mounting the seacock/backing plate without drilling three additional 5/16 holes in the bottom of my boat. The method is shown in detail in the following link - does this seem ok or should I just drill and through-bolt? Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
