Re-wiring 17' Center Console. Correct Wire Gauge?

[MPKehoe09]

I just recently purchased a 1998 17' Aquasport and I plan on rewiring the whole boat. With a boat that's nearly 20yrs old, I'd prefer to have the peace of mind knowing that everything is wired correctly. And in the event that something does go wrong out on the water, it will be easier for me to self-diagnose.

Currently everything is hardwired to a single battery. I will be installing a Battery Shutoff/Selection Switch, and allow for the addition of a second battery down the road. From the switch, I will be wiring two Bus Bars (One negative, One Positive) to hook up my accessories. (Marine Radio/Fish Finder/Horn/USB Charger/Courtesy Lights). I know a (-) Bus Bar is not necessary, but again, I like the piece of mind I have a proper ground, and it keeps my battery terminals clear from lots of wires.

I know there are calculations I could do to determine the correct gauge, but I think what I am planning to do is pretty straight forward. I will be ordering a spool of wire online, and some butt connectors in bulk for cost savings, and want to keep everything consistent, if possible. The battery is located in the center console, and the bus bars will be about 2' from the battery. The accessories I am wiring to, are within the console as well, figure another 2' from bus bar to accessory. There should be minimal voltage drop.

**All Wire Marine Tinned with heat-shrink connectors.


Battery Terminals to Battery Selector/Shutoff Switch - 6 AWG

Battery Switch to Bus Bars - 10 AWG (IN-LINE FUSE WIRED BETWEEN SWITCH AND BUS BAR)

Bus Bar to Marine Radio - 16 AWG (Factory wires out of head unit may be 18 AWG. Will use 14/16 to 18/22 Step-Up Butt Connector.)

Bus Bar to Other Accessories - 16 AWG

Bilge Pump/Float Switch Hard Wired to Battery (WITH IN-LINE FUSE) - 16 AWG


Does this all sound about right?

Thanks in Advance,
Mike

 

[Grandad]

Yes, I'd suggest that a negative bus bar is a necessity, but maybe not a positive bus bar. If you use a self contained fusepanel, it will already have a main positive connection point that will feed multiple fuseholders. They also will likely have "deadfront" covers that will keep terminal points hidden from contact with foreign objects that could short circuit your electrical system. Some panels also have a self contained negative bus that will help keep things compact and "workmanlike". Your wire sizes seem appropriate, except perhaps your #6 which may be undersized for starting your engine, particularly if it is some distance away. I wouldn't use less than #16 for anything, only because anything smaller needs to be better protected from mechanical damage.
- Grandad

 

[Grub54891]

I myself prefer to run #8 wire to the bus bar. The theory is, there is always let over spaces on the bus bar after you get your stuff hooked up. The next guy up the road adds something else, and it needs steady power, so why not just have it done now. # 10 is fine, but I like to be ready for the future.

 

[fishrdan]

Something to consider it a fuse block with integrated negative buss bar, then all of your wiring is protected by fuses and everything in one spot.

For wire, it sounds like you were talking about using the same color wire (or just 2) for everything and I don't recommend doing that as it's going to be a troubleshooting nightmare in the future. Check out GenuineDealz online for inexpensive marine grade tinned wire and terminals, they are cheap and have fast delivery.

I'd use a minimum of 16ga wire, then bigger for high current draws. Here is a good calculator for boat wiring

 

[fishin98]

This is what I did when I re did my boat. I used 10 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse box( BLUE SEA), then used 14 gauge to all the accessories. A neat and clean setup.