Real milky lower unit oil.....

[Stan's Customs]

Flows like glue...probably hasn't been changed in years. Drained and refilled...Ran out the boat once (20 minutes) working on several problems at once. Checked the oil again...flows much better...still milky white. I don't see how it could be anything else even after the oil change since it was so gooey on the first round.....could drain a week and still not be all out probably. What do you do about flushing out that milky crud?? Thought I'd change it again before I test for a upper rpm power loss....see what it looks like after that, but would like to flush with something if that is kosher...Only good thing is that I did not see any evidence of separated water when first pulling the lower drain plug....but it hasn't been in water except for two short test runs in over 2 years.(and muffs)<br /><br /><br />I imagine I'll wind up replacing seals...I keep seeing references to pressure test to determine which seals are in need of replacement (also vacuum test for the same), can anyone give me a run down on that procedure. How many places can it take on water in the lower unit other than the drain plugs, prop shaft seal and I suppose the waterpump seal?? How does a pressure test reveal the bad seal if the oil is drained out like the manual suggest....feel it , hear it...what did I miss??<br /><br /><br />I hope this is the last surprise this thig has for us ...we really only expected to rebuild the carb initially...par for the course.<br /><br />Hmmm..... "wooden or fiberglass hole in the water into which you pour money"...comes to mind. <br /><br />Naw... that was in reference to something else I'm sure...Har!<br /><br />Thanks to all for any input...Stan

 

[Don S]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

I think the first thing you need before you go any further, is a manual. You should find one here.<br /><br /> Selocmarine.com

 

[kponhlo]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Stan,<br /><br />Unless its the prop shaft, you're going to have to pull it off and apart anyway - I'd change everything flexible while I was in there. If its a slow leak, you might be able to squirt some soapy water and see bubbles during a pressure test My thought - get a whole seal kit (they're cheap), replace the prop shaft seal, retest, and hope you're lucky. If not, that's one less to change when you get it apart...and a manual will defintely help get it back together without extra parts left over.<br /><br />Good luck,<br /><br />-Keith

 

[Stan's Customs]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Thanks Don,Keith...<br /><br />I have a manual that isn't indexed very well. I overlooked the pressure test "paragraph".<br /> <br /> I was hoping that something less than a complete tear down might be done, as is indicated in this manual...or that maybe one seal was more prone than the others to go out. Things that a manual would not address.<br /><br /> I was really wondering if most mechanics did a preliminary pressure test on the boat or if they just went the full Monty every time....sometimes there are tricks of the trade, so to speak, that a manual does not deal with. Wishful thinking I know...but I'd rather ask than find out later that I could have done something easier...<br /><br /> I agree Keith ..if I had it all the way down I would replace everything that wiggles...and anything else that might ensure a good fix....I'm just making sure their arn't any acceptable shortcuts. <br /><br />I think a better manual than I have would be good. Don do you have first hand knowledge of those Selco Manuals? If you do, are they a quality professional guide or just bare bones like so many ...(Haynes comes to mind)? If they are good manuals I think I'll go ahead and buy another...I imagine I'll have this boat a couple of years at least.<br /><br />One thing that this manual does not address at all, is flushing the gear case...Do you guys have any comment on a way to accompolish that? Like I mentioned this stuff was very thick..and slowww to come out. Or is flushing just not done? I doubt if I could tell if the thing was fixed even if a prop seal was the only leak. I'll bet the the thick residue will probably milk up the new lube again, if I don't do something. Maybe not though...speculating at this point.<br /><br />Thanks again ...Stan

 

[Stan's Customs]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Thanks Don,Keith...<br /><br />I have a manual that isn't indexed very well. I overlooked the pressure test "paragraph".<br /> <br /> I was hoping that something less than a complete tear down might be done, as is indicated in this manual...or that maybe one seal was more prone than the others to go out. Things that a manual would not address.<br /><br /> I was really wondering if most mechanics did a preliminary pressure test on the boat or if they just went the full Monty every time....sometimes there are tricks of the trade, so to speak, that a manual does not deal with. Wishful thinking I know...but I'd rather ask than find out later that I could have done something easier...<br /><br /> I agree Keith ..if I had it all the way down I would replace everything that wiggles...and anything else that might ensure a good fix....I'm just making sure their arn't any acceptable shortcuts. <br /><br />I think a better manual than I have would be good. Don do you have first hand knowledge of those Selco Manuals? If you do, are they a quality professional guide or just bare bones like so many ...(Haynes comes to mind)? If they are good manuals I think I'll go ahead and buy another...I imagine I'll have this boat a couple of years at least.<br /><br />One thing that this manual does not address at all, is flushing the gear case...Do you guys have any comment on a way to accompolish that? Like I mentioned this stuff was very thick..and slowww to come out. Or is flushing just not done? I doubt if I could tell if the thing was fixed even if a prop seal was the only leak. I'll bet the the thick residue will probably milk up the new lube again, if I don't do something. Maybe not though...speculating at this point.<br /><br />Thanks again ...Stan

 

[kponhlo]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Stan<br />Unfortunately I don't know Cobra's to say whether one seal goes more often. If its been sitting it could be any one of 'em. I also don't know what "real" mechanics do when a boat comes in. My boat left me with little options, there were two loud clicks and a bang, then just waves lapping against the hull. Later, sitting in a pile of outdrive parts, I found that the clicks were one of the upper thrust bearings welding iteself and breaking free of the shaft and the aluminum housing...but I digress. <br /><br />The Seloc manuals are good and lot of folks on here swear by them. Personally I found that they are somewhat lacking BUT since I also have a Clymer manual I can interpolate between the two and figure it out. As for flushing, I've sometimes shot Brakleen into things, but only when I don't mind replacing seals in the near future. I've heard of folks running a lighter weight oil or additive like Marvel Mystery Oil for a few minutes (in engines) to clear up settled crud. However, the best way I can think of (not the fastest) is to just keep changing the oil, running, changing oil, running, until its clean. Obviously, don't forget to make sure its warm when you drain it - whether by running or careful heat application, and that the vent plug is out and not filled with crud.<br />Regards,<br />-Keith

 

[Luna Sea]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Get an OEM manual. It will be for your engine, and your engine only. No generic's.

 

[Don S]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Finding an OEM manual for a specific engine model number would be great, but with the company out of buisness and not producing them for many years, that can be a real problem.

 

[Lou C]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

I was able to get one 2 years ago, check at an Evinrude/Johnson dealer, they are very good and about the same price as aftermarket. <br />On mine I had to have the gaskets on the water tube and the driveshaft housing in the lower unit replaced. When you get into it this far you need someone who has taken these apart a lot and knows all the tricks. You can get a mightyvac pressure vac pump and check to see if it holds pressure/vaccum with no oil in it. Gear oil by its nature will drain slow, since on the muffs the motor is just idling so it does not heat up esp in the cooler weather. When I change mine, it is my last step in winterizing and I let it drain for several hours. The milky oil will drain slower than just oil will. You are filling it from the plug that is just below the cavatation plate, not the bottom one on the bullet, right? Should take about 2 qts when full.

 

[Stan's Customs]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Okey dokey........Thanks Guys<br /><br />I will probably use something that will cut this stuff even if it's hard on the seals.. Then tear down and replace "all" the seals ... Seems like that really is the only way to do it dependably.<br /><br />As per Don's motto about the time....and how true it is.<br /><br />I don't have any...but I'll just just have to make time to do it right te first time!

 

[Stan's Customs]

Re: Real milky lower unit oil.....

Good thought Lou C...<br /><br />I will try the dealer.<br /><br />As a matter of fact I, filled from the bottom last time. I was told to fill from the bottom till it runs out the middle plug , install the middle plug , then continue to fill till it comes out the dipstick hole. Adjust the level if it checks overfull or needs a little, when done. <br /><br />The process worked well as it took 2 quarts...or real close. The manual shows to load from the bottom, too. (states to load slowly to avoid an air pocket) <br /><br />I think the only way to be sure it doesn't have air in the gear case is to be sure it holds the reccomended amount, which ever way it is done.<br /><br />Stan