Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

[Arynden]

I left out some details when I retyped this thread because I wasn't logged in. For new readers to this thread, I'm trying to remember all the stuff that was cut out when I had to relog into the forum. This is to tow my 21" Chaparral H2O. The boat will be launched and used in freshwater exclusively (or so we expect), not salt. I had originally been looking at Tidewater until a couple boaters warned me off of them. I do not need to know dealers, although if you have suggestions in NC I will look at them if they're not too far away, but I do need BRAND names that have a reputation for lasting and not going bad. I also don't want to be taken for a ride since I have gotten very different price ranges, so I would like to know what would be considered reasonable for these specifications.

1) Dual axle
2) Aluminum
-I can be talked out of this in favor of galvanized stainless steel if you give me enough of an argument, but I would need to know the weight difference. I've heard some good stuff about Fulton.
3) Chine roller trailer, standard, I don't plan on getting bow or rib rollers.
4) Disc brakes on both axles
5) Electric (preferably that I can get with heat shrink waterproof connectors, but this is not a must) with a control unit that allows me to turn off all power to the trailer brakes.
6) A unit that allows me to easily disconnect the power connector prior to submersion, but does not have to be a pre-wired quick connect plug (I am woefully ignorant about trailers. Would the parts still on the trailer leave any electrical units vulnerable? I figured the parts you need to absolutely keep dry remain in the cab after disconnect and there's no short risks since everything is turned off.)
7) warranty, warranty, warranty (someone that is not going to make me bend over backwards to fix something that's gone wrong the first couple years)

 

[MH Hawker]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

Sounds like you need to do your home work. Ever thing can be done for a price.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

Everybody makes dual axle trailers.
Most everybody makes a line of aluminum trailers.
There is no such thing as a galvanized SS trailer.
There is no such thing as a SS trailer.
Fulton makes trailer parts, not trailers.
If you get a roller trailer, you want to have them all. You don't want to go without some in the important places. BTW, What are chine and rib rollers?
If you go electric you must wire your tow vehicle with all the bells and whistles.
You need to study trailers, and then go to a dealer and get advice. Sounds like you are not up on the terminology. Buy from a local dealer, don't take advice from the internet about what manufacturer to buy.

 

[Arynden]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

I left out some details when I retyped this thread because I wasn't logged in. This is to tow my 21" Chaparral H2O. The boat will be dropped in freshwater, not salt. I had originally been looking at Tidewater until a couple boaters warned me off of them.

Several of them suggested differing dealers, none of them were in my region (NC) and one of them wasn't even in business anymore. And the reason I'm asking for advice in a boating forum is because this IS doing my homework. I know of 16 different brands from Bear to Venture, but I am looking for something with a good rep. (remember I was originally looking at Tidewater), and something that can give me more options (which is why I'm not going with the standard Chaparral bunk). I am thinking LoadRite and Fulton, there was an East Coast Trailer company that is no longer around too. There was a specialty trailer company in my area but it was more designed for larger craft than mine, and wouldn't have been able to give me more bang for buck.

Sorry I wasn't clear when I was referring to stainless steel. I meant that with many of the parts being stainless steel such as the springs (obviously not drums since I'll be using discs) to reduce the corrosion. I know aluminum does corrode which is why galvanized may be preferable.

Chine rollers are what most roller trailers are. They support the chine/keel of a boat. This is similar to the support I would get from a standard bunk, but without the ease the rollers would provide when I'm winching the boat up. Rib rollers are just additional rollers to support the outer edges of a hull. They provide extra stability and support but I would consider them really only necessary for especially large and heavy boats, which is why I do not plan on getting them. The towing vehicle has the tow package already, but we are planning on getting the valet service at the marina we are docking (dry dock) at. They'll take the boat out to the slip before we get there with their own and have it submerged and uncovered when we arrive and return it at the end of the day. The trailer will mostly only be hooked up and wired when we are travelling to different marinas next year or visiting family in the mountainous region (why electric is the way we want to go).

I would also like to add that despite considering LoadRite now I have at least one other person who told me their LoadRite bunk rusted out within 4 years even though he hosed it off after each use. Granted they were mostly doing saltwater fishing, but I can do all the browsing and comparison price shopping in the world and still not know what kind of endurance the different brands will have unless I talk to people who have actually been buying trailers and owned them for a number of years. This is the reason why I'm trying to elicit opinions on brands that I can depend on.

 

[roscoe]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

You can get a galvanized roller trailer, or a galvanized bunk trailer, or an aluminum bunk trailer from the Karavan dealers in the link below. Their customer service is great, have only heard of a few problems, but they were handled well.
I'm sure they will rig the brakes anyway you order them.


Dealer/Distributor Locator - Karavan Trailers

 

[hungupthespikes]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

If you drive a little the prices get very competitive.

Let me google that for you

 

[JimS123]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

The keel is the centerline of the boat. IMHO keel rollers are preferred for any type boat or trailer. The chines are the outer edges of the hull (its not near the keel), and again IMHO that area needs to be supported as well. Most important, though is supporting the transom.

I currently have 2 galvanized LoadRites - 11 and 9 years old. Other than a slight greying of the finish they are both still 100% perfect. Fresh water use only. We have two 9 year old painted trailers - an Eagle and a Yacht Club - both look like new. My local LoadRite dealer sells a lot of their aluminum models and they look real sharp. Their only advantage is weight not corrosion.

Aluminum may show some unsightly surface oxidation, but in fresh water therre should be no corrosion that will affect safety.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

Im partial to shoreland'r trailers myself. they have galvanized and aluminum models.

most trailers will have brakes on only one axle, so you will have to special order for the second axle.

From the carolinas to Florida there have to be about 4000 aluminum trailer manufactures. most aluminum trailers are float on bunk type.

all trailer springs are steel, not stainless. you need the carbon for strength. they rust, you replace them as a service interval.

stainless and aluminum do not mix (galvanic corrosion).

Even galvanized and aluminum trailers corrode.

you want electric and disc brakes. this would be an electric over hydraulic system. to me, much more complicated than straight electric, or hydraulic surge disc brakes.

All trailers have a quick disconnect to disconnet your lights. however if you get sealed LED lights, you can leave them connected.

All trailer manufacturers offer a warranty against material defect and workmanship. some 2 years, some 5 years. however in every and all cases, they have a list of exclusions

proper maintenance of all trailers includes washing and flushing after every use to prevent the trailer from "going bad"

 

[Arynden]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

The keel is the centerline of the boat. IMHO keel rollers are preferred for any type boat or trailer. The chines are the outer edges of the hull (its not near the keel), and again IMHO that area needs to be supported as well. Most important, though is supporting the transom.

My understanding is that a "true" keel is a sharply protruding segment that is more commonly found in sailboats or large boats where grounding or capsizing is a concern and they wish to provide more stability. While many people may now use the term to reference any hull centerline, I would sooner refer to that as the chine, since the chine is the centerline where both planes of the hull meet at the bottom and can be more rounded than with a true keel. The boat I'm getting does not have a true, sharp keel in the original sense of the terminology. If I chose to support the outermost edges of the hull on the trailer then I would be employing rib rollers, which support the perpendicular "ribs" of the boat that the hull's structure is built around. As long as the trailer is long enough and the boat was winched up far enough, then the transom, close to where my inboard motor is located, is easily supported by the back end of the trailer.

I've taken a look at Owens and Sons and another custom builder but my only concern is whether these manufacturers can provide me with a roller trailer. Most of the models I've seen by them and Sport Trail seem to only utilize I-beams. Beautifully constructed to be sure, but I am partial to rollers so that loading and unloading the boat is less of a chore.

 

[Arynden]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

Im partial to shoreland'r trailers myself. they have galvanized and aluminum models.

most trailers will have brakes on only one axle, so you will have to special order for the second axle.

From the carolinas to Florida there have to be about 4000 aluminum trailer manufactures. most aluminum trailers are float on bunk type.

all trailer springs are steel, not stainless. you need the carbon for strength. they rust, you replace them as a service interval.

stainless and aluminum do not mix (galvanic corrosion).

Even galvanized and aluminum trailers corrode.

you want electric and disc brakes. this would be an electric over hydraulic system. to me, much more complicated than straight electric, or hydraulic surge disc brakes.

All trailers have a quick disconnect to disconnet your lights. however if you get sealed LED lights, you can leave them connected.

All trailer manufacturers offer a warranty against material defect and workmanship. some 2 years, some 5 years. however in every and all cases, they have a list of exclusions

proper maintenance of all trailers includes washing and flushing after every use to prevent the trailer from "going bad"

How long have you had your Shoreland'r trailers? I know of that brand, but I don't personally know anyone with a Shoreland'r trailer. I don't mind placing a special order to get disc brakes for the second axle. I realize that brakes on all the axles is only a requirement in some states, but I wanted to get a jump on it now, not to mention we have family in extremely mountainous country and the braking on the downslopes is important.

Thanks for the tip about the LED lights. I already knew they were the best, and they're standard with some of the brands I've been looking at, but I wasn't sure if it was still okay to leave them plugged in. I would still need to disconnect the system sometimes, since the marina uses their own vehicle to tow the trailer and launch it for us before we're there.

It seems most of the trailer companies we're looking for offer either galvanized or aluminum trailers. I'm trying to avoid the bargain basement junk brands that just paint over the trailers. I know one of the custom builders does aluminum with galvanized wheels. I heard from another guy (he had hydraulic drum brakes but I don't know whether his trailer was galvanized, aluminum or a paint-on) who said his drums and springs got rusted through and he replaced them with stainless steel parts that have been holding up great ever since and will continue to do so as his parts need replacing. Do you happen to know which lasts longer between aluminum and galvanized?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

painted steel trailers are common for fresh water, and every manufacturer makes them. they are not "bargain basement junk brands", they are a great trailer for fresh water. they will not last more than a few years if you dip in salt water.

if a trailer is painted, it is simply painted steel. Aluminum trailers are aluminum I-beam construction. Galvanized trailers are the same construction (actually same trailer ) as the painted trailer, just that they are hot-dipped galvanized.

the guy you heard from that replaced his parts with stainless, actually probably replaced his parts with galvanized brake parts and coated drums and springs.

no, I do not know which one will last longer. with proper mainenance both galvanized and aluminum would last longer than I would be around. I use a painted trailer (its what came with the boat) and at the rate it is currently rusting in the salt water, I will eventually have to replace it in about 4 years. I do, however wash the trailer and flush the tubes with fresh water after every outing. If you do not properly maintain the trailer, even galvanized and aluminum will only last a few years.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Recommended trailer brand that fits these specs?

My understanding is that a "true" keel is a sharply protruding segment that is more commonly found in sailboats or large boats where grounding or capsizing is a concern and they wish to provide more stability. While many people may now use the term to reference any hull centerline, I would sooner refer to that as the chine, since the chine is the centerline where both planes of the hull meet at the bottom and can be more rounded than with a true keel. The boat I'm getting does not have a true, sharp keel in the original sense of the terminology. If I chose to support the outermost edges of the hull on the trailer then I would be employing rib rollers, which support the perpendicular "ribs" of the boat that the hull's structure is built around. As long as the trailer is long enough and the boat was winched up far enough, then the transom, close to where my inboard motor is located, is easily supported by the back end of the trailer.

I've taken a look at Owens and Sons and another custom builder but my only concern is whether these manufacturers can provide me with a roller trailer. Most of the models I've seen by them and Sport Trail seem to only utilize I-beams. Beautifully constructed to be sure, but I am partial to rollers so that loading and unloading the boat is less of a chore.

Interesting use of the terminology. I had to google it myself - you must be experienced with round bottomed wooden sailboats. I leaned something new about a single chine hull - never saw one before.

Anyway...now that we understand the question, my previous advce still holds. Good centerline support is a given, and lateral support can't hurt. If going with a full roller trailer, the most important thing is the number of rollers. The least amount of weight on each roller will provide good support with no hull damage.

I'm in fresh water, so materials of construction aren't as critical. My last trailer was painted and after 5 years it looks showroom. The 2 before it were galv, and they look dingy. My oldest is 30 years old and painted and it looks like new, except some of the hardware (coupler, light brackets) that are galv are starting to show light rust. My next tgrailer will be painted again - just because it looks sharp.

Here is my tinny with upgraded bunks and rollers. I set it up that way - it came with bunks. Now, I realize its a lightweight, but my big I/O is built the same way - I just dont have a pic. My experience with LoadRite has been outstanding. I had 1 minor issue and they replaced parts without even an inspection, not needing the old parts returned.