Reed Valve Gap allowance

Toon Town

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Apr 9, 2020
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9
Hello Friends,

I have a 1986 60 HP Johnson outboard. By boat starts fairly easy and idles and runs fairly well at slow to medium speeds. When the throttle is just before about to full throttle it boat bogs down and runs a little erratically like it is about to stall. I am thinking it is a fuel delivery or vacuum issue. I did notice that when I look at the reed valves I see a very small gap under most of the reed valves. I flipped over the reed valves and still see some small gaps. The biggest gaps are only big enough to slide a piece of paper under. How much reed valve gap is acceptable? (Should it be completed sealed or is a small gap ok?)

One other question. Could this effect the vacuum pressure going to the fuel pump? I have to prime the boat every time I start it. When I prime it I see the fuel filter completely filled with fuel. It starts and keeps running but I notice the fuel filter only is about half filled with fuel after running. Most times I have to reprime with the bulb to get it going again.

p.s. when I bought it about 3 years ago I found that they installed a electric fuel pump on it. I changed it out for a regular vacuum driven fuel pump. I'm thinking they put the electric pump on it to compensate for the loss of fuel pressure due to a vacuum leak... possibly at the reed valves.

p.s #2 It has around 140 psi in all 3 cylinders and good spark on all 3 cylinders... and I verified they plugs are firing in the right order.

Thank you!
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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38,889
Actually the regular fuel pump is driven by a + PRESSURE and not so much by VACUUM.------Fuel filter does not need to be full when motor is running.----A wee gap on the reeds is acceptable.-------If throttle plates OPEN too early your motor will be unhappy.-----I do not understand what you mean when you say " starts fairly easily "-----Those motors with the proper starting method using the electric primer nearly START INSTANTLY.-----What is your starting method in detail ?
 

Toon Town

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Apr 9, 2020
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9
Thank you racer-one. My starting procedure is as follows. I pump the bulb two or three times till it is firm. I push the electric primer for about two or three seconds. I raise the idle speed lever about halfway. I turn the key and normally it starts for a couple seconds, then dies. I then reprime it and try to start it again. Normally it starts the second or third time I do this. I then lower the idle speed lever all the way down. After letting it warm up for a minute or two I put it into gear and go.
 

Toon Town

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Apr 9, 2020
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p.s. I did the Link and Sync on it and the throttle is visibly closed while starting.
 

flyingscott

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You need to push the primer in WHILE turning the key. Pushing it in before does not prime the motor and in fact it does nothing. Does the throttle cam roller still have the clear sleeve on it? Is the link and sync good?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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No need to push key in BEFORE cranking it over.----You must keep key pushed in WHILE cranking it over for the electric primer to work.---Then push key in as required if motor falters during the 30 seconds required for warm-up.------Would not hurt to adjust / raise fast idle so that throttle opens just a wee bit for starting.---Picture of your regular fuel pump ?----Picture of the powerhead ?
 

Toon Town

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Apr 9, 2020
Messages
9
Thank you for the advice on the primer this is my first boat so I am learning a lot. Here are some pictures of the cam roller and the powerhead and the fuel pump which I added. I took all the carbs and the off to access the reed valves
 

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Toon Town

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Apr 9, 2020
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The idle lync and sync was fine. I did the Joe Reeves method for the maximum spark advance WOT and it was fine. I put it at 14° BTDC instead of the 19° BTDC that is called for while doing a test with the test wheel.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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I would shorten the pulse hose to the pump and mount the pump on a factory bracket that was used up to 83 models.----I look at some roller later , but I think the outer sleeve is missing.
 

Toon Town

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Apr 9, 2020
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You’re right the cam follower is missing the clear sleeve. I just ordered one. I’m going to redo the link and sync and try everything again. Thanks again for all your help.
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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If it runs on all cylinders, the pressure/vacuum pulses are adequate to operate the fuel pump Excess pulse hose length does matter a bit..
 

flyingscott

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Apr 8, 2014
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When you do the link and sync make sure the carbs do not.over rotate at full throttle.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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Leaf valve is pn 0313420. Think I would replace any that seem questionable. You may run into a problem fine tuning. Also, if you have a permanent tank in your boat, I would be inclined to trade the inline filter for a water separator filter (Racor or similar). [h=1][/h]
 
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