Refridgerator hookup does not have 12v power

dpagini

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Hey All,

Looking for some troubleshooting advice. Bought a boat last year, and the refrigerator was not working. I'm pretty certain the original was cooked, as it wasn't working on 120v even at home. Anyways, I threw that one away, and bought a new 24v/120v fridge. When I plug it in (shore power), it works great, nice and cold. I disconnect my shore power, and it does not appear to be working. I pulled out the fridge, and tried to get a read from a multimeter on the two wires coming to the back of the fridge, and I just cannot find any way to get power to these leads.
Next, I tried to trace back the wires and see where they are coming from. I crawled up in my cabinet with a flashlight, and see these two wires going up into a space I cannot really see... great. The wires head in the direction of the breakers. I use a camera to try and see where this is going. AS BEST AS I CAN TELL, there is a whole wire harness (maybe 16 or so wires in a group) that these two wires are coming from. There is a plug under my sink. When I disconnect this plug, a lot of things in my cabin stop working (lights at least), so I know the plug has at least a good "hot wire". from the plug, most of the wires go up to what I'm guessing is the breaker box. Somewhere out of my view, two wires come out, and come back down (for the fridge). In addition, I can see two more wires that break off, and go to a 12v plug, that works currently. Things are looking pretty good, so I can't figure out what's happening.
Anyways, one thing I am looking to this forum for, besides ideas of things to check, is wondering how the boat turns these leads on when I'm off shore power? According to the manual, "The refridgerator will automatically transfer to 12 volt operation when dockside power is not available and the 12 volt refridgerator breaker is on." - Where would the 12v refridgerator breaker be??


FYI my boat is a 2000 Four Winns 248 Vista.
 

alldodge

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bought a new 24v/120v fridge

If you bought a 24V/120V fridge, the 24V side will not work on 12V.

Can you supply the make and model number of the fridge you bought?
 

dpagini

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Nov 18, 2015
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Hmm... I hope that's not the case, as I bought the below 12/24V DC and 115/230V AC.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276204|2276226|2276233&id=2406847

I'm not sure that's my problem though, as I'm saying I'm just not getting any juice out of the wires that connect to the fridge. They are not hot, so even if I had the incorrect fridge, the correct fridge wouldn't work anyways. I need to figure out why those wires are not hot. Where would the mechanism on the boat be that only turns those wires on when the shore power is disconnected?
 

alldodge

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Your link was blocked, must be at a competitor.
My fridge has to sets of wires and both go the breaker panel. My panel has two sides 12V and 120V and two breakers for the fridge, one on the 120V side and one on the 12V side. Main panel also has a main 120V breaker and a main on the 12V side
 

dpagini

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Nov 18, 2015
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41
Isotherm Cruise EL 49 Elegance Refrigerator / Freezer
My link was to the Defender website.

So, I guess this fridge has "two sets of wires". One is a normal plug for a wall (I have an outlet under my sink from the old fridge), and the other is two wires, for the 12v hookup. My breaker panel is only for my shore power items. I have a main switch. I have a breaker for my fridge/charger. Both of those pretty much always stay on. All the other breakers are 120v items (outlets, microwave, stove, etc.). According to the manual, when the fridge is turned off, or there is NO shore power coming into the boat, the 12V connection should then be hot.
Again, my problem is that the 12v wires where the old fridge used to be have NO power coming out of them with any configuration of shore power or breakers or battery switches. There must be some kind of switch, or trigger, that turns these wires on when there is no 120v in the boat, but I cannot figure out WHERE that would be. Does that help at all?

Thank you for your responses!
 

dpagini

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Right, that is what I have been trying to say in my whole post... =)
I'm trying to troubleshoot why the wires that are already in place to support a 12V fridge do not have power...? I dont want to run new wire to the fuse box and then to the battery when I already have the original wiring.
I'm also under the understanding (via the manual) that these 12V wires are only HOT when the shore power is disconnected, or switched off, preventing the fridge from getting both standard 110v AC AND 12v DC at the same time.
 

alldodge

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I'm also under the understanding (via the manual) that these 12V wires are only HOT when the shore power is disconnected, or switched off, preventing the fridge from getting both standard 110v AC AND 12v DC at the same time.

I don't see an issue with at the same time. I didn't read through the manual looking for that issue, but most fridges will shift from AC to DC when AC power is removed. Mine does this without any problem.

Now that I understand what your asking, (sorry guess I'm slow) but did also want to make sure what you wanted to know. My guess since you said the original fridge would not work on 120V that it shorted out. Since it shorted out it probably blew the breaker or inline fuse supplying 12V to the fridge. You have two wires which should be hot with 12VDC at all times with the Battery switch on.

Since you don't have that, the fuse/breaker is what to look for. I know you have been looking for it, but that is what you want to find. Look for buss bars Pos/Neg located in the boat.

Have you looked behind the breaker panel to see if there are other items or fuses there?
 

dpagini

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No, no, not slow! I so much appreciate your time to discuss this with me!
I think I need to check the fuses and the main panel this weekend. Taking that panel out is a very tight fit and I wonder if it wiggles wires free. I also can't say I've found/checked a fridge fuse in there.
Thank you very much!
 

dpagini

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Just wanted to update my post, even if it makes me feel like a dummy... it was a fuse problem. Wrong sized fuse, and it was blown out. Replacing it with the right fuse has solved my problem, and I couldn't be happier. I think I was thrown off by the assumption that the fridge 12v power only went on when the shore power was disconnected/off, and that it had some tie into the shore power breaker box. Anyways, learned the hard way to check the basics first. Thank you AllDodge for all your help discussing the matter!
 
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