Removal of out drive

[In4apenny]

I've been following SELOC and got everything undone, pins removed , bellows, water, shift rod, etc. on my AQ130/250.
The manual says the splined U-joint should just slide out.....and maybe it would on a unit that wasn't 44 years old!
I've wiggled it and moved it back and forth. I have the unit all the way down.
I'm reluctant to start prying. If anyone has done this before and maybe has a tip I'd appreciate it
Thanks.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Removal of out drive

You do know you can just take off the top gearbox right so you don't have to take off the whole drive? Not sure what you are trying to do but if you are just trying to change bellows or u-joints, you don't need to remove the whole drive.

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...tdrives/outdrive-side-pin-removal-309095.html

This info is in the sticky section at the top of all the threads.

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/vp-357328.html#post2360521

 

[captmello]

Re: Removal of out drive

The ujoint yoke is most likely corroded/rusted onto the PDS (primary drive shaft). The ujoint yoke has a female end that slides over the pds. Having never experienced this exact issue I have no first hand advice, but If it were me, I would cut back the ujoint bellows and try to get a few wacks in on the yoke itself in hopes of loosening it. Some previous posters have resorted to splitting the ujoint in order to remove the upper gear box/outdrive, but I haven't tried that either.

As Bruceb58 mentioned, removing the upper gear box is typically all that is needed for most service and maintenance. Having read your other post, I know you want to remove the entire outdrive. However, it may be useful to try to remove the upper on its own as another alternative to try to solve this problem.

Good Luck!

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Removal of out drive

As Bruceb58 mentioned, removing the upper gear box is typically all that is needed for most service and maintenance. Having read your other post, I know you want to remove the entire outdrive. However, it may be useful to try to remove the upper on its own as another alternative to try to solve this problem.

Yes, I didn't know this. I would certainly try to do this in two steps. Take off the upper gear box first as your problem appears to be there right now.

 

[Pesimist]

Re: Removal of out drive

There was a member that reported a similar problem not too long ago, he used some wood blocks and the trim system to preload and pop the splined adapter loose using the outdrive as the lever.

With an outdrive that old, I would imagine you intend to replace the universal joints, bellows, and outdrive seals so removal of the upper gear box first might not be a wise decision.

I will continue my search for that thread.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Removal of out drive

There was a member that reported a similar problem not too long ago, he used some wood blocks and the trim system

With mechanical trim on a 250 drive? Sure you weren't thinking SX?

 

[further]

Re: Removal of out drive

Yeah it was an SX

http://forums.iboats.com/volvo-pent...roblems-need-replace-water-nipple-635857.html

 

[In4apenny]

Re: Removal of out drive

Well, I finally got the drive out. Here's what I did. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 1 ton engine hoist. The 130 doesn't have any lift eyes so I used a lifting strap and wrapped in around the drive and engine and put tension on it with the hoist.
I took the Sawsall and starting slicing up the boat. It was pretty rotted out but the engine and outdrive seemed good to use in my project boat. I saved a few parts which I may use on the new craft or sell on CL. Anyway, I cut out the transom and everything was hanging there still connected. I pulled the hoist clear of the hulk and removed all the fasteners holding the bell housing to the engine. Now I at least had the engine separate. This exposed the splined shaft and I gave it a few whacks to see if I could get the drive separated . Then I did what many suggested and removed the upper housing. At this point the shaft was still frozen in the bell housing. Now whacking on the spline got some movement and eventually it came out. Last issue is separating the bell from the transom shield. 6 bolts and don't you know 5 came out but the 6th is stubborn. I'll try some heat tomorrow. Last thing I want to do is round off the head and have to drill it out.

 

[captmello]

Re: Removal of out drive

Nothing says "Happy Valentines" like a rotten transom with an old VP drivetrain hanging from and engine hoist.

Glad you finally got it apart.

 

[In4apenny]

Re: Removal of out drive

Thanks Captmello, the last stubborn bolt came out with a little heat. As the SELOC manual says, "heat is your friend"
Next step is to build my new transom. I measured the old transom at about 1.75 in. My plan is to laminate 3 layers of 15/32 marine ply with West system 105 and 3/16 steel on the outside. I'm building a (substantially) steel boat measuring 25' X 8' 10".
I'll post some pics on the build, restore thread.
Bruce

 

[In4apenny]

Re: Removal of out drive

One other thing. When I drained the outdrive gear oil, it was very thin less even than 30 wt motor oil. It didn't appear to have water in it.
The last time, about 10 years ago, I added oil to a VP it was fairly thick , 90 wt, I think. The prev. owner said he had new bearings put in within the last couple years and perhaps he used the new synthetic gear lube. My question is: is the new synthetic that much thinner.
B

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Removal of out drive

75w-90 gear oil is about the same viscosity as 30W motor oil.

You are actually supposed to use 30W motor oil in your drive.