Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

[jrem]

I've read in the forums that loosening the lower pan will give some room to access the T-stats.<br /><br />So far I have removed the front and rear exhaust housing covers. (8 - 5/16 bolts total) <br />And I have removed the 4 rubber mount screws attaching the lower pan to the powerhead but the lower pan isn't moving more than an 1/8th of an inch.<br /><br />Am I missing some bolts somewhere?

 

[papasmurf]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

Try removing the control cables to see if that helps. It is not going to drop alot. Just look real close to see what else can be removed to let the pan drop.

 

[OBJ]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

What's the year of the engine jrem? <br /><br />You won't get a lot of room. I change the t-stats without losening the pan. What ya' do when ready for re-assembly is hold the t-stat housing together with rubber bands and put the outside bolts in the assembly before putting the assembly in place on the engine. It's a big pain granted, but beats the alternative of pulling the engine block......real bummer.

 

[jrem]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

My engine is a 115hp V4 Johnson mod:TJ115TLEND which I think is a 1992. Sorry, I forgot to include that info with my original post.<br /><br />papasmurf - I will take another look around when I get the chance, but I think I'd rather not remove more than I have to. I did see on another post that someone mentioned having to loosen the powerhead mounting bolts. If I'm not really gaining that much room by lowering the pan, maybe I'll just leave that alone. Unfortunately the Clymer's manual is useless in this situation since it assumes you have the whole engine taken apart when replacing the t-stats.<br /><br />OBJ - I did see your earlier posts about using the rubber bands which I think is a great idea and had already planned on trying that when I get to the reassembly part. <br /><br />I imagine they'll be a lot of cuss words coming from the garage tonight!<br /><br />Thanks a bunch to both of you for your responses!

 

[Solittle]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

I have done it on my 1987 110 hp crossflows. I used a 7/16" combination box/open end wrench and a 7/16" 1/4" drive socket with a universal and extra long extension. On mine you don't need to drop the pan but you do need to remove the rear cover (plastic) that is just below the pan. This allows you to get to the lower t-stat cover bolts with the combo wrench from underneath to get the bolts started. Once started use the socket from above to get them the rest of the way. Soak the bolts well (like overnight) before you start with PB Blaster or your favorite lube.<br /><br />I had a wrench quote me $250.00 for labor to do one motor - I have twins. He wanted to pull the powerheads. Uh Uh!!

 

[miket]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

Do you need to replace all the thermostat parts, i.e grommet and springs ?

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

Grommets are in the T stat kit, springs usually are not. If you are going to go thru all that work to change your stats, I would replace everyting that comes in the kit. Dont just buy the T stats, buy the kit...

 

[Cricket Too]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

I will probably be doing t-stats in an older V4 pretty soon, so I'm sure I'll be back with some questions, but the rubber band idea sounds pretty interesting. Are t-stats as bad on a newer 90 degree V6, 2000 200hp?

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

Pulling the power head sound's like a radical idea. Having gone the loosening the pan route, pulling the power head is just as fast, and a lot easier. When you remove the bolts, nuts, and shift rod which are right out in the open, the power head comes straight up. You have to add a power head base gasket to your parts list. If you don't go this route, holding the parts together while fighting those strong pressure relief springs is no easy matter. I don't mean to make this sound easy for everyone, because I have the engine hoist, and proper tool's to make this possible. I would have to guess the mechanic that suggested doing this with the twin engine set up has tried both method's also. When you think of it, loosening those two pan's mounted side by side would not be fun, if at all possible.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

R. Johnson/jrem - I did my twins in the driveway and had no choice as I don't have a hoist. I pulled the plastic cover below the pan on both. For the first engine I dropped the pan a bit. For the second I was able to get by without dropping the pan. All work was done at the rear of the motors so having twins was not an issue. They are SeaDrives if that fits into the equation.<br /><br />One more thing - - After I had done mine I read several posts here on iboats to check and make sure that the t-stats had a v notch in them. I don't remember if mine were notched or not.<br /><br />Another thing some guys will do is to cut a fair sized hole in the pan itself (large enough to get the 7/19" socket through)to provide access to the bolts on the t-stat cover. Of course you must have matching rubber stoppers to fit into the holes. I run my motors in salt and would not do this for fear of salt water getting into the motor.

 

[OBJ]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

Bottom line....just ain't no "easy" way to do it. Just take the method that suits you and go for it..... Dropping the plastic cowling is a good idea SoLittle....I'll try it next time I gotta' do this type job.....thanks!

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

OBJ is right! thermostats can make you dislike working on outboard motors. The flat-rate manual allows 3 hrs. for this job. That give's a hint as to the difficulty. They allow 2.2 hrs. for a powerhead base gasket.

 

[reeldutch]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

i drilled the holes and after replacing the tstats i use a liquid metal that some plummers use and sand it smooth an spraypaint it, no salts can get in there<br /> http://groups.msn.com/outboardpictures/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=10 <br />works for me

 

[seasoar]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

Originally posted by jrem:<br /> I've read in the forums that loosening the lower pan will give some room to access the T-stats.<br /><br />So far I have removed the front and rear exhaust housing covers. (8 - 5/16 bolts total) <br />And I have removed the 4 rubber mount screws attaching the lower pan to the powerhead but the lower pan isn't moving more than an 1/8th of an inch.<br /><br />Am I missing some bolts somewhere?

 

[seasoar]

Re: Removing lower pan to get to t-stats on 115hp V4

Listen to me i just did this on my twin 85 115 obs do not i repeat do not take off power head or loosen this does nothing for you your on the right track with the lower cowling but i think you need to remove the two plastic pieces below that first