Repair question DECK/SOLE

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Jul 30, 2006
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Hello All, I think i am going to have a big task ahead of me. The boat construction is solid EPOXY not vinyl esther, handlaid Hull. The stringers are solidwhere i could access them, I took core samples refilled with west. I will be repairing a transom and Filling it in. Back to the construction, it is 2 pieces, hull and top cap. The floor(top cap) is encapsulate 1/4 inch balsa glassed on both sides. A few spots are soft to me (225 lbs). I have read repairs where to cut the top layer with a cirular saw, gut the balsa and re-glass over. Or cut the whole damn thing out "due to my major renovation" this way I can double check the stringers as a whole instead of in particular sections. What are your ideas ?

Here is what the boat looks like (this is not mine but the same model)

http://s607.photobucket.com/albums/tt160/Willsoz/?action=view&current=DSC_0683.jpg
 

Bondo

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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

Ayuh,... Splitting it in 2 will allow you to do the deck from below, saving any patterns in the gelcoat...
Also allowing Full access to the Stringers,+ Transom...
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

ok, well let me explain further what will be happening with this boat, you can laugh and berate me all you like but, i'm stubborn as a mule and got my main gameplan going, just trying to figure this one hurdle out. The boat you see in the picture is a center console outboard which i have now. When i'm done it will be a forward cabin diesel inboard. Gelcoat does not exist on my boat, its all gone. Been DA'd and painted. I dont really care about it. The boat is 30 feet and 7000 lbs with no outboard. I have no way of lifting half the cap off. I have a way of cutting it all out and potentially relaying the whole floor with marine ply or composite structural core. I have to build up the engine beds. I can also patch work the floor, and only cut out where the diesel is going to go ?
 

Mark42

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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

Interesting project. 30 ft should give you a generous cabin and aft deck. Will enjoy watching this project.
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

yes mark, it should be painstakingly interesting. Thats why i was asking you about the enclosure. I have a design in mind that kinda represents a carolina style boat, the only difference is this hull i have now is a true battle wagon. Its heavier then most boats its size, its sturdier and much stronger, has WAY more deadrise. I'm just getting sick of the viking fishing days of an open boat boat refuse to part with the hull, so i figured i'll design the rest around my needs. the link posted is what i'm aiming for minus the tower

http://www.bluewateryachtsales.com/Images/articleImages/WebFrame_84.jpg
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

also to add on, as the wife gets older, she loose the urge to pop a squat over the gunwales. And jr requires sun protection.
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

heres mine

81361d1248985543-best-pic-your-boat-smallboat.jpg


81378d1248994742-best-pic-your-boat-running-small.jpg



added more pics for viewing pleasure ;)
 

109jb

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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

RESIZE YOUR PICTURE!!!!!

Also, why even ask our opinions if you are so stubborn you won't listen and have a game plan already.
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

RESIZE YOUR PICTURE!!!!!

Also, why even ask our opinions if you are so stubborn you won't listen and have a game plan already.

settle down chappy, i'm looking for good ideas on flooring. fix what i got or redo everything. I don't need to hear the bs of "the boat wasn't designed for an inboard" I want REAL WORLD ideas on redoing the deck. BOND-O had a great idea, although i don't have an apparatus in place to lift something that large and that heavy.
 

jonesg

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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

What I did in my center console was slide the console forward (you could remove and sell yours) , leave the cap alone, cut around the deck and pry it off, flip it out of the boat upside down onto the garden and recore it.
Rebuild stringers, install motor mounts for inboard.
Redo transom for inboard.

You might want to cut the fwd deck to make room for a step down into a cabin. The present deck height would be the bunk height so you'd only be lowering the walkway between them.

Theres a guy in RI who made a cabin mold for his CC , save you from fabbing.
He posts on surftalk. Let me see if I can locate him.
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

Jones, YES.... now where getting somewhere. I am with you on the drop down, The vberth fish boxes are coming out, this is why i suggested to possibly redo the whole floor to get a little more depth up front. The console I might hack it up and make a side console, but as it originally stands it will not be used. I don't want to think about the stringers until i can see the whole run, not sections. As far as the cap, i am loosing you a little bit, cut through both layers and coring or set the depth on a circular saw and only cut through the top layer ? cabin mold, very interesting, i must see this.

Thanks

Jim
 

jonesg

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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

Leave the cap alone, leave the gunnels ( or walls if you like) , just cut around the perimeter of the deck, leave 3 inches of deck all around to make it easier to re-attach the deck.
It can be done in 2 halves to make it easier to handle the deck itself, I cut mine in half with the joint right under the console from side to side.

Until you get the deck off its all speculation so...

But if you remove the cap and change the loading of the hull with an inboard and install new stringers theres a good chance the cap will not fit back again.

Can't make any suggestion for the engine installation , never done one or even looked closely at how they are fitted but its not rocket science.
You might have to re-locate the stringers.

The cabin mold was posted on surftalk
http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/forumdisplay.php?f=163
I went through some pages, to #18 but didn't see it yet.
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

thanks Jones, looks nice resembles a Chesapeake, i been thinking also, Parker cabins are screwed onto the hull, if i can find a junked Parker that also might become useful. Jones, have you ever work with structural foam core, such as davinycell or any others ? if so how do you like the strength after glassing ?

thanks again,

Jim
 

jonesg

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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

Those exotic materials are out of my range pricewise, I used urethane insulation foam from home depot to core my t-top. Using epoxy you can use blue extruded insulation foam, blue is denser than the pink , so you can drop down in dimension to 1" thickness. If you fabbricate from foam and epoxy/glass the structure it will be very strong with blue styrofoam.
No need for exotic materials in a superstructure even if you plan to walk on it.
Stringers and transom yeh, cabin walls no.

This shows how I cored with urethane foam,
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/jonesg_photos/T-Top/?albumview=slideshow
cut a crosshatch into the foam with a steaknife, that lets the resin soak in and stiffen the structure of the foam. Then glass over it. End result is a cored structure that is very stiff and strong ( and cheap).
The top cost me $40 plus resin.

If you're a decent carpenter consider building it up from a framework, sheet with ply and glass, then insulate and fit out the interior. Sort of like building an upside down hull on your deck.

Either way its all in the finish work.
I bought whiteboard shower wall material, $12 for 4x8 sheet , needs no finishing and its very waterproof.
Lazyness is the hobgoblin of resourcefullness.;)
 
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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

very interesting, i would have thought the homedepot foam would not bond as well nor be as strong. Now i noticed your crossbracing looks almost 2' off. with ribs spaced farther do you feel the foam is still stron enough to stand on. Also i understand what your say regarding the cabin, similar to this build.

http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=553634&page=3


on a side note, did you extend the chines out on your CC ? i cant get the picture big enough, almost looks like half a sponson
 

jonesg

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Re: Repair question DECK/SOLE

In a cored structure, if done right, the inner core is just to keep the 2 outter surface equally spaced, unless theres a lot of compression force such as engine bolts on a transom.

When I re-cored my deck I used poly resin and chopped fiber, some cabosil to keep the resin from draining out of the mud.

For the T-top roof which isn't going to be used as a deck I used soft foam but I still stood on it.

If you flip your deck over you're probably gonna find its cored in sections, not just one big cored deck. Cut the soft sections open , clean them out and re-core then close em up with resin/mat or cloth again.

I didn't do anything to the hull on mine, its an old 1974 cathedral hull, like a deep V with side sponsons which extend back about 3 feet then terminate.
 
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