**replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

[skizman]

Hello. Engine is 1976 45 HP Chrysler...457HH.
Can I get to the rings (to replace) with just taking the head off, or do I have to disassemble the whole powerhead?
Thankyou!

 

[Nordin]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

Yes ,I think you have to disassamble the whole powerhead.
All 45Hp I have restored I have pull off the powerhead, never tried to loose the rods from manifold/intake (do not think it is possible).
Have loose the rods from manifold/intake on a Chrysler 75Hp. It is possible BUT "tricky".

 

[gregmsr]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

Why are you replacing rings? Low compression? Any other symptoms/issues?
Just curious....

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

WELL, Like Greg asked: Why are you replacing rings?

If your engine has the vertical manifold with a timing mark at the top (like the 50), it is possible to remove the big end of the rod through the reed opening and push the piston out with the head removed. Easy to take them out, a bit more of a PIA to put them back. I just did a 50 that fought me all the way. I got so frustrated that I had to stop and come back another day.

 

[skizman]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

OK...the details>>>Bottom cyl keeps fouling plug. Engine keeps hesitating...all speeds. Compression on both cyl's is almost 110. I was thinking of new rings to get the compression up.
Put a hotter plug in bottom cyl...no help.
New plug wires.
Adjusted carb.
New coils last year.
Swapped coils....same problem.
Fuel pump new last year. Took apart checked for holes.
Fuel filter very clean.
Squeeze bulb stays hard.
Squeezed prime bulb while running.
Loosened gas tank cap.
Checked all wires for tightness.
Always buying new plugs to try first.
Took carb apart 10x...always very clean in bowl.
Sprayed starting fluid around intake.
Poured Sea Foam in carb....shut eng off for 20 mins., restarted it....no help.
Guess I'll take the flywheel off and check the points again.
I was off with my numbers and was putting too much oil in mix. Mixed new fuel at 50/1....didn't help. I use Pennzoil synthetic.
I'm lost with this constant problem.
Lousy running engine along with catching no fish really makes a frustrating day.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[skizman]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

Frank....I know how ya feel.
Thanks.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

Playing with new rings is just going to waste your money and time. You won't be happy with the result--or lack of. Depending upon the gauge accuracy, 110 PSI can be acceptable. Since both cylinders are relatively equal, the engine is most likely mechanically sound.

Buy or borrow a manual--Clymers is decent-- and set everything back to factory specs. You can't get where you are going until you know where you are.

I believe the two cylinder engines have points set to .018 or .020 and you must be careful to set both equally since a very slight difference will change timing between cylinders bay as much as 2 degrees. Do not put too much lubricant on the wicks as this will come off and foul the points. You may want to replace the points because one set may have a weak spring and might as well replace the condensers too.

When I first started working on these engines, I had a 1967 Chrysler 55. I had lots of problems and thought it was the engine. In reality, it was me not understanding how the various systems worked together. 47 years laterI still have that engine.

 

[Nordin]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

skizman, since you have done alot with the fuelpump, carb and all fuel related I think you shall check the points and the timing.
Reset the points to 020 if it has magnetoign.system or 015 if it has batteryign.system and clean them well.

My experience about these 35, 45 and 55Hp Chryslers that they are not so sensitive about the pointgap. 018-022 does not matter.
Then check the timeadvance at WOT. It shall be 30 dgr. BTDC. If it is off it can make the engine to hesitate at all RPM.

Also check the reedvalves. All pedals shall rest flat to the Surface. If they do not, you may have different troubles.

Last thing to do is to check the crankshaft seals.

 

[skizman]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

Thanks Frank and Nordin. I pulled the flywheel (this engine has the battery system) and both points were pitted pretty good. I filed them both and set them at .018 and cranked er up and it seemed to run good, but it's always done that at home, then when I start running around the lake is when engine acts up. I have a repair manual on my pc but it seems it is all about taking things apart and not any troubleshooting. I'll get a Clymers manual somewhere. Need to read up on checking the timing. But if the timing was off....would that make only one cylinder foul plugs?
The condensers are new from last summer...less than 10 hrs. on them. What kind of condenser should I ask for at the auto parts store....same question for points?
Last year I checked the reeds and they were closed flat, but the manual says they should have a gap of .010....so I set them at that.
I'm hitting the lake tomorrow morning so later I'll post with the latest news.
Thanks again!!!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

NO! you don't set the reeds open. Reeds should lay flat on the vee block but are ALLOWED to have a MAXIMUM opening at rest of .010.

Let me guess---online Seloc manual?

 

[skizman]

Re: **replace rings...just take head off?** 45 chrysler

The manual I have is a Chrysler Service Manual...made by Chrysler Marine. It says when installing the reeds, they must meet the specifications in the diagram....which shows the reeds with a gap at .010. I'm not arguing with you, but that's what the service manual says.
So I hit the lake this morning. The engine was acting up a little.....then later it cleared up. Then acted up again. Then running back to the boat ramp it ran pretty good. So filing the points did help, but I've been through this many times before. Somehow it seems the problem fixes itself when I'm running sometimes. I'll take the carb apart(for the 20th time) and check the float and needle.
To check the timing...is TDC where the top piston is pushed out as far as it will go?
Thanks!!