Replacement floor questions

[waynemad]

Just found this site and have to say it is great!!<br /><br />Currently replacing the soft floor on a 84 Renken 18" bowrider and will be doing the slicing and dicing this weekend. I have read a lot of items about floor replacement, including The Rot Doctor Q&A but have one key (or is that dumb!)question. <br /><br />In several articles people talk about cutting back the floor and leaving 4-5" for the new floor. Does one simply place the new plywood on top of this "rim" or screw a plate below it which extends out and becomes a "lip" upon which to place the new floor. I assume stainless or brass screws should be used in either case. My concern about the lip method is the durability of the lip plate with all the screws that would be necessary. Dropping the floor on top of the "rim" would at least place it on fiberglass.<br /><br />I realize in both cases the appropriate seling/glassing is required.

 

[Richok]

Re: Replacement floor questions

No question is dumb if you don't know the answer. The dumb question is the one not ask.<br /><br />I can't answer you on the best way but when I done mine, I put it back like the manufacture did it. This was just slipped under the side sitting on the fiberglass. I used brass screws which I got from Mcfeely's square drive screws. Phone 1-800-443-7937.Someone on this forum may have a better idea for you, but thats what I done. <br /><br />Good luck.

 

[E. E.]

Re: Replacement floor questions

Wayne, On my boat, I used my angle grinder, cut along the floor to wall joint and removed all the wood from the flooring. I then ground out all the glass left from the floor back flush to the wall. I will then lay my new wood floor from wall to wall and cover with resin and cloth. I will lap my cloth up onto the wall 3-4 " to tie it all together. That was how the factory job was done.<br /><br />This works for me. Your setup could be totally different.

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Replacement floor questions

I had cut and ground everything down to the bare shell on my project. I left no lip, or any of that. I glassed everything in as it would have been done at the factory, except much better, ensuring no wood was left exposed. The lip technique works for some, but you have to make sure the new stringers a bit taller to make up for the new floor height, and that the stringers are such that no weird warping occurs because the lip is a different height in places than the stringers. That is the best argument against the lip, is knowing the floor will be even and level without too much fuss. If you glass it all in properly, the lip is not necessary. Good luck...

 

[Bama7474]

I just got a free Renken! need advice.

I just got a free Renken! need advice.

This is my first post here, though I've been reading about many of ya'lls projects, it's time for me to start mine...I received a salvage boat from a friend of mine and all I know right now is that it's a Renken 20 foot cuddy cabin made for an outboard not sure what year, was told '80 something?! This boat has nothing on it and was completely striped down to the fiberglass, even in the cabin...The hull and topside structure looks great a perfect shell...I'm going over to my friends house today to get photos to see if ya'll can help me find out what year it is...I've never had my own boat but have served on US Navy ships for 15 years and now I'm a chief so it's time for me to refurbish my own boat.

***I'm looking for info on what to do first if you had just a shell***

Thanks!