replacing glass fuse terminal block, need help

[fishinjunky]

No Title

 

[fishinjunky]

No Title

I'm not sure of where wires should go .

 

[alldodge]

This helps but not a whole lot because we cannot see where the wires go. Your adding wire but were unable to see where it goes. Maybe make a list of where each of the wires go, and include switches or anything else that is connected to it.

Other then the one wire I'm asking about where it goes from the ground buss, where do the other wires go to?




Guessing the blue wire is lights based on your list

 

[fishinjunky]

The one blue along with Gray go to nav lights on temp. White wire going to ground. The issues is when blue touches pos or neg the control comes on.
The short temp. Yellow go to main positive to red to battery.first yellow to green goes to horn that works.
The dark blue one left next to ground buss arrow is courtesy lights .the second yellow to Orange connects to Brown white going to livewell

 

[fishinjunky]

The nav lights work but the bow lights conti stay on and stern lights not working

 

[alldodge]

The one blue along with Gray go to nav lights on temp

There should not be two feeds for nav lights. The nav lights which include the anchor light should go to one switch that is single pole double throw. In one position there should be a connection from the fuse to the switch, then to the anchor and nav lights. When the switch is thrown in the other position is should turn the anchor light on only.

From the sounds of it you have two separate feeds going to the different lights and there is no switch between them

 

[bruceb58]

The anchor nav switch needs to be a double pole double throw unless you use a diode.

 

[NYBo]

How can I say this?
Get rid of the the wire nuts! They have no place in a boat. Wiring should go directly to the fuse block/negative bus whenever possible.
I don't see any 8 or 10 gauge main battery feeds.

Gauges do not get their power from the fuse block; they get power from the ignition switch.

I mean no insult, but do you have a knowledgeable friend who can assist you? Maybe there is an iboats member nearby.

 

[fishrdan]

A DMV (digital volt meter) will help troubleshoot your wiring problems. You can pick up a cheepie at Harbor Freight for $5, sometimes free with a coupon if you get their flyers. You will need to use the DC volts setting and ohms setting to troubleshoot this properly.

It might be easiest to remove everything from the fuse panel and start adding individual device back in one at a time to ensure it works, then move on to the next device. As you add in more things, test everything to make sure you have not induced a problem with the newest thing you just added in.

 

[bonz_d]

That is a mess but I've seen worse! It can all be fixed for sure.

Take your time and don't let it intimidate you. Most DC circuits only have 2 wires, a pos. and a neg..

As some of the other old timers here will know I used to work maintenance if the food industry and at one time the company I was working for had a major fire and they lost almost 70% of their facility. This place was old and so was the mechanicals.

The one section of building that wasn't touched by the fire was eventually stripped out to make room to move equipment in. There was a mechanical dry room that housed all the electrical to the machinery. Most being 3ph. 480v with motor starters, frequency drive, timers, circuit breakers, start, stop and emergency stops. There was conduit from 1/2" up to 2" running everywhere. Inside the panels were old dead circuit lines and controls that went to nowhere. Dead ends, abandoned. We had 3 guys pulling all this dead wire out for 5 days before the electricians could even think about working in them. Now that was a true nightmare.

So also be patient with the guys when asking your electrical questions as they may not clearly understand the question you're asking. At the same time hopefully they will be patient with you for not understanding their answers.

Just remember that DC is like a hydraulic circuit in that it needs a supply side and a return side.

 

[gm280]

All I can say is, if I lived close to you, I would easily help you out with that wiring. And when finished YOU would absolutely understand how to wire anything like that afterwards.

As suggested above, don't look a the entire wiring effort as a whole. Just start with one circuit and understand where it comes from and where it is going and wire it accordingly. Then move on to the next circuit...and so on. Seems so easy to get overwhelmed looking at all those wires and makes it look like a larger problem then it really is. Go slow and methodical and complete one circuit at a time. JMHO!

 

[JungleJohn]

I just acquired a 25 year old Tracker Pro 17 that needs a LOT of work. The guy that owned it before decided to rewire it and got as far as pulling all the wires from the fuse panel and left them hanging. I got a new fuse panel and currently waiting for the ring connectors to arrive. Besides the positive and negative, there are only 4 other wires hanging and it should be a simple matter of hooking a hot and ground up and see what lights up or turns on. One thing has me scratching my noggin is that there are two black wires and only one red. Is that normal? I hate assuming there are 2 black ground wires but have no way to follow where they both go without pulling out the floor. Don't really want to do that. Nor do I want to hook up both black wires and end up frying something. I know its hard to diagnois something like this long distance. I could add a picture of the two black wires hanging from the cluster but I can't see how that would help. Like you told the gentleman that started this post , you need to see where the wires start and stop. If I get it figured out I will report back how I did it. I am going to replace the hot and ground from the battery with heavier wire and also add a fuse close to the battery since there isn't one.
In the mean time I wanted to personally say THANK YOU to one and all for giving me enough information to tackle this problem. I'm actually thinking its going to be fun, especially if I can get around the $150 an hour charge the local mechanic charges!