Replacing rotted motor mounts

daydreamer1252

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
212
I need some ideas!! Maybe even a proven method from someone who has had to work through the same issue. In the process of replacing the transom and have found the forward motor mount is screwed to f'glass only as the underlying wood is rotted away. I am most nervous about the front support and the motor mount.

How to make a template to ASSURE that the motor mount holes go back to the "same" location as original?

Another method (other than a template)?

As always all info and opinions are appreciated.
 

Robj

Lieutenant
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Re: Replacing rotted motor mounts

While you are at it, you should also check the condition of the stringers. They may be rotten as well. Regarding the mounts, just take reference measurements and go with that. When I did my mounts there are adjustable so as long as they are close to the old ones were, the rest can be adjusted.

Have a great day,

Rob.
 

Squid Billy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Messages
152
Re: Replacing rotted motor mounts

Are your mounting bolts embedded in the hull glass?
 

daydreamer1252

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
212
Re: Replacing rotted motor mounts

Thanks for the replys!!

Robj: while I have not taken the front mount out and fully inspected (1984 Merc 120/2.5L) it doesn't seem to allow for much adjustment either fore and aft or side to side. It also does not appear to be that the mounting stud that engages the mount on the engine is on the centerline. This is a visual reference only and is referenced the transom cutout.

Squid Billy: The front mount is two lag screws into a raised "platform" between and attached to the stringers. I haven't fully cut it out yet but it appears to be raised above the floor but the "chopper chunks" don't allow a good look and won't until the mount is removed. And this is the reason I need the "template" or exact measurement datum for placement before the cutting begins!! :D

Thanks
 

wca_tim

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
1,708
Re: Replacing rotted motor mounts

I just went through a mess when replacing my engine. checked the tops and sides of the fllotation boxes and they were solid and drilling yielded no wet wood... once I got the new engine ready and pulled the old one out, started to remove everything underneath and prepare to extend the existing mounts, I struck water... literally... low and behold the engine pount blocks, underlying wood and stringers all the way up were rotten or at least wet... there was water trapped in the foam at the bottom of one of the flotation boxes that literally ran out when i drilled into it. After cursing a bit, i remembered some of teh great info i had read on this board and some other places, and started taking pictures and measuring. taking measurements and pictures with a ruler in the pictres) as I went, I then ripped it apart with a crow bar, circular saw, sawz all, wood chisels and hand grinder - huge mess... Thank god the balsa core in the hullk wasn't wet - I would have burned the whole thing in the driveway right then I think. I wound up having to take the whole deck up even though it was mostly solid, because the stringers were wet and rotted underneath. I removed a pile of wet foam from under the dry on the one side... and checked everything visually after currint into the surroundign structures until i struck dry materials. Since I was putting a significantly heavier engine in and had to extend the mounting pillars (v-8, mounts on both sides), I didn't replace the large piece of wood that was in each mount bedding with another similar peice I layered mahogany, glass matt and epoxy resin into the old fiberglass shell after thoroughly cleaning it out and roughing everything up a lot for good adhesion when I put it back together. I filled in all the corners and made the initial bedding with "peanut butter" and did the top with that as well once the layers were all in. it's REALLY solid now and clearly much stiffer than it was before. It is also made of separated chambers of rot resistant wood. It took several long days of hard work to get done, but in the end i think was worth the effort... I did the stringers with marine plywood and epoxy resin filling cracks and bedding them using pl construction adhesive then glassing over it.

dig until the rotten part is gone, take pictures with a ruler along side, and then put it back together with good materials. You won't be sorry...
 
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