Replacing Transom and stringers

[IN2DEEP2]

Fisrt of all this site is the best I've found. I've been thru thread after thread learning all that I can. Just started pulling the floor from a 72 Clipper. I am going to replace the transom and stringers . I removed the rub rail and removed all the rivets holding the top form to the hull. I needed to pull the top to get to the transom. Few questions,

1. I still have the boat on the trailer. She sits pretty "square" on it. Will this be a good base to hold her shape while glassing in?

2. Should I place the top form back on after replacing the transom before replacing the stringers and floor?

3. Last put not least, do I need to seal the 2 halfs together around the rub rail when I finish?

Thanks in advance

 

[BillP]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

You may have been able to cut the motor well out instead of removing the deck...its a whole lot easier that way. To keep it straight the easy way...do the floors/stringers with the deck on...and cut as little floor/stringer away to do the transom.

bp.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

I rebuilt my Starcraft 18-footer by pulling the deck off. Makes things MUCH easier than working around the motor well or cutting the transom skin off.

I rebuilt the transom first, leaving most of the stringers in place until it was done. I did my work on a roller trailer. There was no distortion of the hull on the trailer, even with the stringers removed. Only distortion occured when I was walking inside the hull during assembly phases. Made sure I was NOT in the boat when epoxy was curing!! Hull came out straight and true - I straight-edged it when done to be sure. As long as your hull construction is thick enough to begin with so that it doesn't distort under its own weight you should be alright...

I ran a bead of 3M 4200 around the seam lip before reassembling the deck to the hull.

- Scott

 

[IN2DEEP2]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

Thanks for the quick response. Another reason I took the top off was to get to the entire floor. The step of the walk through sit right on the floor.

 

[sdunt]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

I rebuilt the transom first, leaving most of the stringers in place until it was done. I did my work on a roller trailer.

I agree with Scott and you will find the same recommendations from Jim Anderson in his book.. Remove and work on only 1 at a time the floor or the transom. NOT both at the same time. Some people have put braces across the top of the hull once the deck is off to maintain the spacing so you can get the deck back on.

If you can use the old floor as a pattern and while you are installing the new floor and the sides don't match you would know that the hull is spreading on you and that you need to pull it back together before you seal the edges of the floor or , DUH, on a test fit of the new floor you should see that..

Measurements of the floor before you pull the deck off would be good. A Friend of mine uses his digital camera to take pictures of the ruler to record the measurements, then he can compare if he's in the same spot measuring, etc..

 

[IN2DEEP2]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

I am going to replace the transom first. I just finished removing all the soaked wood and as I expected, it travels the entire lenght of the stringers also. I read on here to use PT plywood as long as it it dried first. . One of the things I noticed is that the drain plug for the "bilge" is about 1/2" above the bottom of the boat. this could have been a major cause for all the water. From those who have replaced a similar transom, what is the easiest way to lay it out?

 

[IN2DEEP2]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

More updated pics of the stringers

What are the braces that went across the top? They were so rotted i couldnt even tell what size they were.

more pics

 

[mtnrat]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

Mine did not have braces across the top of the stringers. They usually go where the floor sheeting meets. Like this.
I made a ski locker so one brace does not go all the way across, and there are braces at the front and back of the ski locker.

Here is the floor before gluing down, which I did today.

Keep at it, it does end, but everything takes way longer than anticipated.

 

[IN2DEEP2]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

Mtnrat,
They are just like that. About an inch deep flush with the top. Did you replace the stringers?

 

[BillP]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

To layout the transom shape...take a sheet of ply or whatever and clamp it to the outside of the transom. Then trace the shape along the outside of the hull onto the ply. Deduct hull thicknesses, etc and cut to fit. Drill for the drain tube after glassing. Put it as low as you can.

bp

 

[mtnrat]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

I used 3/4" pieces 3" wide. Yep replaced the stringers as well as the transom.

 

[IN2DEEP2]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

Ok, I'm back for some more. Would raising the floor level an inch cause any structural or safety issues? I will still have enough side "gunwhale". I want to build a storage compartment for rods. What will be the best way to keep this sealed from overspray or water in the boat?

 

[Windykid]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

Dont know if the top deck will sit all the way down then. Will you be able to seal the joint arount the boat?

 

[IN2DEEP2]

Re: Replacing Transom and stringers

I have cut the transom pieces and will laminate today. I left about 1/8th" around the sides to prevent hard spots on the transom. What is a mixture of cloth/mat to affix the wood to the transom skin.