replacing transom

Quick3201

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 31, 2011
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I paid $750.00 to replace the transom in a 1974 Olympic 19'. I did take the motor off pror to taking it to the shop. Shop was a local shop that "builds" fiberglass boats. did a real professional job. This was about 6 years ago in North Carolina.
 

Quick3201

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 31, 2011
Messages
150
I paid $750.00 to replace the transom in a 1974 Olympic 19' out board. I did take the motor off prior to taking it to the shop. Shop was a local shop that "builds" fiberglass boats. did a real professional job. This was about 6 years ago in North Carolina.
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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$1500 is usually considered a "steal" with the norm being $2500-$3000... you might want to expect to pay more.

If you have high standards you may want to lower them if you're going to have a shop replace your transom, they will be in a hurry to get your boat done and another one into that bay.

We rarely hear good things about shop work done to f'glass boats, but have heard quite a few horror stories.
 

Watermann

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Depends on the boat I would imagine and if they have to do it all start to finish. They charge huge around here for shop time so you would be best off calling a shop to know for sure.
 

Tnstratofam

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Aug 18, 2013
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I was quoted $3000.00 for the deck and stringers in our 20' Stratos with an OMC sterndrive. The shop quoted another $1000.00 for the transom. That was if I removed the engine and outdrive myself. Other shops in our area were within $500 dollars either way.

That's why she is still sitting in my garage in pieces.. I'm allot slower than the shop, but I'm allot cheaper too.:D

I'm also a sucker for punishment I guess...:facepalm:
 
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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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The one in my sig line


I Kinda figured that was the one you were talking about. If I had a shop and you dragged that Bad Boy into my lot and said "Replace the Transom" I'd tell you to leave me 40 crisp new Ben Franklins and come Back in a Month and we'd have her done WITH the caveat that we did NOT find any rot in the Deck, Stringers or Motor Mounts. All that would have to be negotiated at the time of discovery.
 

jigngrub

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http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ull-repair/651784-carver-2357-montego-rebuild

Working on just the "pretty" doesn't work, does it?

This time of year down here in the southeast you'll be lucky to find someone that can get to it in a month, maybe 6 weeks before they can even start on it. Then there's no telling what they're going to find when they peel the deck back to access the transom... but I've got a pretty good suspicion that it isn't going to be pleasant.

You may want to consider waiting until Nov./Dec. to put it in the shop, things will be slower then and you may be able to get a break on the labor.
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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WOG - Deck will be good - due to the design I can see the plywood edges almost everywhere, stringers most likely good when I drilled for the trim tab pump and clips for the hydraulics got good wood as well.

I picked it up, working but trashed, for a grand so expected some issues - however there had been work done on the transom already. You could see where they had cut out and reglassed/finished. Also when I put on the trim tabs, I got nice clean wood down low - and some water but figured it would last a year or so until I had the engine/bell housing pulled and resealed. I was pretty happy as until that point was not sure. But when I drilled out for the kicker bracket higher up got sawdust and flex. Only thing I can think of is when they did the previous work they only replaced the bottom half? Just really odd.


jigngrub - not planning to put at a shop now, since the lower half around the motor seems to be good I'm going to wait until time to winterize and have them do it. They just charge per hour and have used them on other, smaller stuff but the owner/manager is a perfectionist so I'm confident in the quality just need to mentally prepare myself for the cost. I was thinking in the $4-5k range. Hope it's less but $4k is 61 hours of work and that's what I'm thinking it might take. Plus I have a small oil leak underneath so I'll have them do a bunch of gasket work while it's out. And electronic ignition. And plugs/wires. And I'm sure other stuff.


But this, barring a complete engine failure, is going to make it a brand new boat pretty much so at total of around $20k I've got a $100k worth of a new boat.

 

Woodonglass

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Uhmm you can't get to all of the transom without removing at least a portion of the deck and a portion of the stringers. Not unless your boats built a whole lot different than most that I've seen. The deck and stringers are attached to the transom in 99.9% of all boats. I'm just sayin....;)
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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oh yeah the stringers for sure but the deck in the far back is like a drop in glass insert that attaches to the deck which ends about a foot from the transom, goes up the sides and is screwed in to the transom from the inside on the back. Make sense? I'm in Iowa this week so can't get a pic.
 

Woodonglass

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Hmmm, Well that's interesting and like I said, something I've never seen before. A removable aft deck!!! I'll be looking forward to seeing the pics!!!
 

redneck joe

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Sorry so long to get pics; computer went to our IT department for a migration to another domain and well....



Pics aren't great; hard to get. I'll try to walk you thru it.

First pic is the top access to the battery and rear of block, just so you can get a relative sense. At the bottom, you see a lip that meets the wood, is about where the decking stops. It is then glassed to the drop in part which I'll try to show you next.

 
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redneck joe

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Ok sorry, but better lighting had me switch sides - this is port side access/battery. You can see the wood meeting the aforementioned lip (to the right which is towards bow). Then the battery sits on the drop in. That is approx 3/16 - 1/4" glass (only). To the left (stern/transom) you can see the continuation of the drop in.









Two pics of the top of the drop in (switched back to the starboard side)

You can see the screw where it goes into the joint where the hull and cap meet just to the right of the blower hose. Moving left, you see the bilge hose which hopefully you can see the cut out in the drop in part - there is about 3/4" space between the hull and the drop in.







Continuation of the drop in attached to the transom, no space between the two.


 
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