Replacing u-joints on Alpha

Fishermark

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I just bought a new project boat. 1985 Wellcraft 19' with a 3 liter 140hp and Alpha drive. I want to replace the u-joints. I have read through the manual, but have a few questions.

In order to pull the driveshaft out of the upper, I simply remove the large retaining nut and pull out the assembly. Is that correct? I know I need to pay attention to the shims, etc. The question I have is this - as long as I do not mess with the gear and bearings, I can simply reinstall the assembly with the new u-joints and, making sure the shims are in the same place, then torque the retainer nut back down to 200 ft lbs. (I have the chart for converting the actual reading to the length of the torque wrench).

No other tricks or settings to worry about, right?
 

ziggy

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Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

hi fm.
I simply remove the large retaining nut and pull out the assembly. Is that correct?
that's the way i remember it.
as long as I do not mess with the gear and bearings, I can simply reinstall the assembly with the new u-joints and, making sure the shims are in the same place, then torque the retainer nut back down to 200 ft lbs. (I have the chart for converting the actual reading to the length of the torque wrench).
that's the way i remember that too. only thing extra i can remember w/o going and looking in the book is. the retainer nut has perfect seal applied to it prior to install.

fwiw. i got the merc tool to install the new ujoints. that, along with a harbor frieght ujoint press made R&Ring ujoints a simple thing to do.
maybe also. try to keep the gears in mesh the same way as ya take them apart. wear pattern. on the 165 it's easy to do as there are hash marks on the gears where you mate them at. unfortunately, i think the 165 is the only drive that has hash marks on the gears. so maybe paint a dot where they mesh prior to disassembly? don't know if that's critical or not, but might be something worth considering.
good luck.
 

Bondo

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Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

Ayuh,..... I've used a "Trick" that drove Don through the roof, even though I fail to see the down-side,....

Take a die-grinder, 'n slightly clearance 2 of the castlations(humps, drive points) to allow the end cap of the u-joint to clear it,...

Ya only need to do it in 1 spot, pull 1 end cap, rotate 180?, 'n then the other side,...

The Big housin' nut is still serviceable, no harm, no foul,...
 

Fishermark

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Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

Thanks Bondo and Ziggy....

Ayuh,..... I've used a "Trick" that drove Don through the roof,

I'll bet that did! Good ol' Don never was one for straying far from the official "right" way of doing things. ;)

I have considered doing it that way myself.

Ziggy - the tool you mention - is it simply an adapter sized appropriately to press out the caps? I've always used an appropriate sized socket.

I'll let you know how it goes.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
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27,468
Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

I've done lots of unis, and never had to 'modify' anything, or remove the shaft from the housing. You can do the unis with the shaft still in the housing by just following the procedure in the manual.

... try to keep the gears in mesh the same way as ya take them apart. wear pattern. on the 165 it's easy to do as there are hash marks on the gears where you mate them at. unfortunately, i think the 165 is the only drive that has hash marks on the gears. so maybe paint a dot where they mesh prior to disassembly? don't know if that's critical or not, but might be something worth considering.

Unnecessary on any drive other than the 1.65:1 (24-24 tooth). All the others have a 'non hunting' gear ratio, so the mesh pattern in constantly changing. No need to mark anything.

Ayuh,..... I've used a "Trick" that drove Don through the roof, even though I fail to see the down-side,....

Take a die-grinder, 'n slightly clearance 2 of the castlations(humps, drive points) to allow the end cap of the u-joint to clear it,...

Ya only need to do it in 1 spot, pull 1 end cap, rotate 180?, 'n then the other side,...

The Big housin' nut is still serviceable, no harm, no foul,...

What did he call you? The Butcher of Watertown? Now I understand why.... I guess Don and I are sitting on the same roof.... :mad: ;)

Chris.....
 
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ziggy

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Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

the tool you mention - is it simply an adapter sized appropriately to press out the caps? I've always used an appropriate sized socket.
yep, i couldn't find where (like the s/m) i decided that this was the right one to (use)buy. but i went back and found the receipt and this is what i used.
Unnecessary on any drive other than the 1.65:1 (24-24 tooth). All the others have a 'non hunting' gear ratio, so the mesh pattern in constantly changing. No need to mark anything.
thanks for the correction and as to why.

fwiw, i couldn't bring myself to grinding on the ears of the nut either. + i had the spanner to go after brgs anways. so i just did it proper.
 

mike165

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Apr 14, 2011
Messages
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Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

Ayuh,..... I've used a "Trick" that drove Don through the roof, even though I fail to see the down-side,....

Take a die-grinder, 'n slightly clearance 2 of the castlations(humps, drive points) to allow the end cap of the u-joint to clear it,...

Ya only need to do it in 1 spot, pull 1 end cap, rotate 180?, 'n then the other side,...

The Big housin' nut is still serviceable, no harm, no foul,...

Did mine the same way last Oct all good
 

GaJeff

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Jul 9, 2012
Messages
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Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

Never thought about notching the ring... seems like it wouldn't be any harm. I've done mine without removing the ring or notching it... it's a bit of a pain but i got it done with no problems. If they were severely corroded i could see it being a problem and needing to remove or notch it.

The only thing i was always worried about is tapping on the caps with the shaft in the housing... would it damage anything inside if i were to tap just a little to hard?

Jeff
 
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NHGuy

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May 21, 2009
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Re: Replacing u-joints on Alpha

What am I not seeing? I do it with a ball joint press. I leave the bearing cluster yoke in the drive and remove the cross from that yoke first. I just press it out. No need for hammering or tapping. Then replace the 2 crosses in the socket and reinstall it to the drive yoke. Am I wrong to avoid disturbing the input bearing cluster? I don't think so, to me it's a time saver.
If you need a ball joint press they are free to borrow at most auto parts stores.

You remove the c clips that keep the u joint caps in, push the cross in enough to free one cap. Remove the press, flip 180 degrees and push the same cross the other way til the other cap comes out, then the cross will be free of the yoke. Now take the remaining assembly to someplace convenient and remove the remaining bearings.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to use lots of marine bearing grease.
Once the drive is on a stand or at least off the boat it's a 1 beer job.
 
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