Resistance while Rotating Flywheel 1990 4hp Evinrude E4RESR.

[cprodave]

While going the next step in debug of Fouled Plugs condition (see separate Topic I started yesterday on that) I noticed that with both Spark Plugs removed the flywheel is hard to turn at 2 different rotational positions. As a sanity check, on another motor I have (4R75A Johnson 1975 4hp) I feel no such change in effort required to rotate 360 degrees.

BTW the Covers (2 piece Cowl?) on the E4RESR design are a PITA to remove. Currently I am having trouble removing the Port Side Cover because of an interference fit with the base of the Tiller. I had this cover off a couple years ago and best as I recall I had to remove the Tiller to get the Cover off.

So back to my main question: other than inspecting under the Port Cover for any mechanical interference while rotating, what else should I look for? Clogged Manifold/Valve(s)? Scored Piston (significant teardown!)? Or on these Belgian 4hp models is that rotational resistance OK "by-design"?

I am thinking the Coil (or similar) might be rubbing the flywheel. I was given a dead lawnmower once (I know, this is an outboard not a lawn mower) that had the Coil rubbing the Flywheel. I reset the Coil/Flywheel gap using a thick business card and it started on the first pull !!

Another question: for best Starting where should the Throttle be set (i.e. how do I advance the Timing)?

Thanks for any input (including how to get the Port Cover off without removing the Tiller Base).

 

[F_R]

Your suspicion of something rubbing the flywheel is very valid. Check it out.

 

[kbait]

If that’s not it, pull gearcase and spin powerhead..may be binding gearcase.

 

[Grub54891]

If that’s not it, pull gearcase and spin powerhead..may be binding gearcase.

Or the impeller pump vanes broke off, with a couple left could cause resistance in certain spots.

 

[cprodave]

I finally got the Port Side Cover off (without breaking the Tiller Base--significant corrosion/intermetallic in the bolts there) and could see the Flywheel Magnets were rusted. I cleaned off the rust with emery paper and the rotational resistance is gone.

Now I am debugging a fuel problem. Using Starter Fluid the motor runs for a few seconds. I will not start or run from the Fuel Tank. The Fuel tank/line is supplying fuel to the carburetor when the Bulb is squeezed (as evidenced by disconnecting at the Carb end the line between Fuel Pump and Carb--fuel flows freely out of this open end). So the Carb is not allowing/accepting Fuel.

2 Root Causes I would look for: 1) Float stuck in Closed position or 2) Clogged Jet.

Are there any other Root Causes I should look for?

Looks like this Carb is a PITA to remove compared to both older and more recent designs!

 

[cprodave]

I got the carb off, removed the bowl and cleaned out a bunch of black and grey and brown sludge. I have no idea where the sludge came from. Motor sat almost all of last summer... that doesn't help performance. Reassembled it and got it running with a shot of Starter Fluid. Then restarted without Starter Fluid and ran through full range of RPM's in my water tank. Forward/neutral seems to work (this design has no Reverse). Looking good! Thanks all for the input.