Reversing issues

[NWO Fisher]

Hi everyone!

I have a 1964/65/66? Merc 500 2stroke 4 cylinder with reversing issues.
I am able to put it in neutral and forward. Once I put it in reverse it only spins the prop forward.
the motor has been sitting for a few years, started up in 2 key turns. I believe it needs new foot oil and an impeller.

any ideas on fixing the reverse shifting issue?

 

[Texasmark]

Let's understand this better......you have the engine idling in N. You shift to F and it engages and spins the prop in the water and pushed the boat. You shift to N and the prop quits turning. You shift to R and the boat moves forward as it did in F gear....is that correct?

 

[NWO Fisher]

Yes, that's correct.

 

[Texasmark]

Remove the remote control connection for the shifter at the engine and with the engine OFF, walk the engine's shift lever through the gears, ensuring that you rotate the prop by hand while you attempt to put the shifter in R...R had cogs and slots that have to line up for the shift linkage to completely engage. Come back with the results. Since you are online now, I'll wait for your response for a bit this evening.....giving you time to run out and check it.....if possible.

 

[NWO Fisher]

I just noticed that I am missing the tilt pin. I'm new to boating, but in pretty sure I need the latches to hook onto this for it to go in reverse. Correct?

 

[Texasmark]

If you are talking about the pin that spans the transom bracket holes, all it does is to set the tilt angle which determines your boat attitude when on a plane. Has nothing to do with shifting. It may have a tilt lock that you have to be in F gear for the engine to tilt up but it has nothing to do with the direction the prop turns. It's purpose is to keep the engine from raising up and the prop coming out of the water when reversing.

You can go to the hardware store and get a piece of "all thread" the correct diameter to fit the holes, and a couple of self locking nuts and make one.

Elaborating on the tilt position, If the front (bow) of the boat wants to nose dive, making steering awkward and un responsive, it's in a hole too low. That makes for a good "hole shot"....the process of going from idle to the boat being on top of the water rather than in the water. You move the pin up one hole at a time till you get a good combination of hole shot and the bow up and out of the water...front ⅓ of the boat not touching the water and looking back at the wake, the V closes farther back than the length of the boat....for a number. All boats have different setups. This is just one example.

On changing the impeller, yes that and the fluid is a super idea. In the mean time, you can keep tabs on the engine cooling. Remove the cowling and If you can reach back and hold your hand on the block without it being too hot to touch, you are okfine.

 

[NWO Fisher]

Thanks.

I'll look into the gears tomorrow when I have more time.

 

[Texasmark]

bump

 

[NWO Fisher]

Sorry for the lack of response as my internet hasnt been working lately.
I ran into another problem with gearcase oil. Freshly put it, turned the motor on with water muffs and the oil started coming out of the water intake and has coated the impeller. I need to look into that issue first. Any ideas where the oil is coming out of? I know there are different oil seals but unsure where it's coming from.

 

[Texasmark]

The water pump sits on top of the lower unit oil seals which surround the Drive Shaft. Pulling the water pump assembly gives you access. Usually 2 seals, back to back....one to keep water out, other to keep oil in. I haven't had a water pump out lately, but getting leaking gear oil into the water pump to coat the impeller......to me is......what's the path? Surely not normal.

Regardless, that could be the source of your problems with apparent water intrusion into the LU cavity.

 

[NWO Fisher]

Would that be the gaskets your talking about?

This may be a dumb idea, but I am thinking of pumping water into the oil cavity (gear shaft?) to see where it comes out

 

[Texasmark]

Say what? Maybe air and a squirt bottle of soapy water on the outside to check for bubbles emerging but surely not deliberately put water into an oil cavity.