Rivets fit snug or have just a little bit of play?

brandon369

Cadet
Joined
Apr 12, 2014
Messages
12
Hey fellow iboaters. This is my first time using rivets and I'm ordering some closed end aluminum blind rivets with steel mandrels to reattach the middle bench seats on my 14' Aluminum Smokercraft. How snug does the rivet need to be when I set it in the hole? I have some rivets that came with my gun so I was able to dry fit some different sizes into the holes, I think 3/16" was the original size from the factory. I may have one or two holes that aren't perfectly round so I think I'm going to order the next size up 1/4" just in case. But the 3/16" seem very close, there's just a bit of play when i set it in the old rivet holes. Is this the correct sizing or is it supposed to be pretty snug in the hole? The head of the rivet covers the hole just fine. If it's supposed to be snug than I know just to order the 1/4" rivets and forget the 3/16".
 

minuteman62-64

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 12, 2011
Messages
1,350
I've noticed different brands/types of rivets seem to have slightly different diameters. I've assumed it is because some are actually metric sized, but don't really know (or care :) ). Anyways, the ones I've used have ranged from a tight fit to an easy sliding fit into the hole matching the stated diameter. Doesn't seem to make much difference in how they hold.

Now, if you have visible side-to-side movement when you put the rivet in the hole, that might be cause for concern. I haven't run across that situation yet.
 

bob johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
4,306
you should buy the aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrel..... that way you wont have an orange-brown rust stain streaming from all your rivets!

they make them up to 1/4" dia!!!

make sure you debur after you drill....otherwise you might be collapsing the rivet on lopsided burr....

bob
 

brandon369

Cadet
Joined
Apr 12, 2014
Messages
12
Okay thanks for the tips guys, I'll get the aluminum mandrels, and make sure that I debur before riveting. There isn't much play, but it does move around in the hole a bit so I guess I should probably just move up to the 1/4". I think I'll order the 3/16" just to have on hand as well and maybe since there different brand they may fit in more snugly... who knows. It looks like the site Rivetsonline has the aluminum rivet/mandrel only up to size 3/16 so I'll have to get the steel mandrel for the 1/4". could I just put a dab of 5200 or silicone over the rivet to prevent the rust? Or should I source them somewhere else?
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,827
If you're using closed blinds to attach the seat to the sides of the hull then there is no way I would use blinds, that is structure holding the boat together and the blinds will fail sooner or later from the stress and weight of people using the seat. If this is the case then I would opt for stainless machine screws and nylocs (with 5200) that is if you don't have the ability to use solid rivets.
 

brandon369

Cadet
Joined
Apr 12, 2014
Messages
12
I'm very grateful I asked this question and that you chimed in Watermann. I'm very new to boats in general and this is my first restoration so I'm learning a lot as I go. I recall someone else on this forum recommending truss head s.s. screws with a flat washer and nylocs to someone and I wasn't sure if I should use that in my situation. I think I'm going to go that route since at this point I have no experience with rivets except for drilling them out. It's a great alternative because I can just pick them up from a local hardware store. You saved me right before I was going to put in my order. I just need to wait to receive my 5200 I ordered. I'm going to learn how to use the solid rivets one day though.
 
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