Running force 120 without a water line

DDM02

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
32
Hello. I just bought my 1st boat a few days ago on ebay. So if everything goes well ill probably be here alot more often to bother you guys. Its a 1992 Bayliner capri 1800 with a force 120 outboard. Now for the past 2 weeks i have been doing nothing but reading up on the topic. I still didn't get the answers i was looking for. I am located in Chicago and its about 0 degrees out here. The boat is stored indoors in a heated garage and was never winterized. I think i read enough to figure out how to winterize it once i get it home.
My question is what is usually expected when i go look at a boat in those kind of temperatures? Should i ask him to let me do a compression test? He said i can start it but i cannot run it for more than 15 seconds because it might damage the engine. Can it really overheat in 15 seconds? He sais its at his job and they dont have a hose plus i guess he doesn't want water all over the place. If it damages the impeller i really dont care. Im planning on replacing it anyway.


Basically my biggest question is how long can i run it without a hose connected and without damaging it?

Also any tips or tricks would be apreciated. Like i said its my first boat and i only know what to look for from what i have read on this and other forums. Thank you in advance.
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

The impeller will be very unhappy running without water to lubricate it. That would be the main issue as far as damage is concerned. You also won't be able to tell much from running it for 15 seconds with no load. But since you've already bought the boat, I'm not sure why you're asking. Just wait until you can do a proper test.

There's not much to winterizing a 2-stroke outboard.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

On the starter side of the engine is the exhaust chest. It is covered with an aluminum plate (some are finned, some are not). Behind the plate are two gaskets and a thin stainless plate which forms the water jacket. The exhaust impinges directly on the stainless plate. Running the engine too long without water will heat the plate. Most of these plates are warped already from running. HOWEVER: Running without water will heat the plate and warp it worse before the engine actually overheats, in addition to loosening the gaskets, possibly causing leaks.

Run the engine for a significant time without water and the exhaust will heat the stainless plate red hot, leading to burned gaskets and possible premature perforation of the stainless plate.

15 seconds will do no harm but 30 seconds to a minute would most likely wear the impeller.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,119
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

Don't need to run it, Do a compression and a spark test. Then check the lower unit for water??
Like NYBo says nothing to really winterize,
They are self draining.You wouldn't want to run an outboard and then drag it outside in the freezing cold.
Possible it has some water hungup in there and it can freeze and crack something.
 

DDM02

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
32
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

Ok, thnk you guys. I think im going to run in for a bit just to make sure it runs ok. Ill just take a chance that it will be ok. Just making sure it turns on and goes in gear. And even though i already bought it it was described as a great runner with no issues. Im just trying to do everything i can to make sure im not getting screwed over. Would it be reasonable for me to ask to do a compression test?
 

tazrig

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
1,752
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

Ok, thnk you guys. I think im going to run in for a bit just to make sure it runs ok. Ill just take a chance that it will be ok. Just making sure it turns on and goes in gear. And even though i already bought it it was described as a great runner with no issues. Im just trying to do everything i can to make sure im not getting screwed over. Would it be reasonable for me to ask to do a compression test?

It would be very reasonable to ask to do a compression test. I wouldn't take the boat without doing one. With really bad compression the motor may well start and run fine with no load. You don't want to get the the boat home and find out in the spring the motor only produces 50 hp because of bad compression and then have to do major engine work to correct the problem. Does he have any service records for the boat or engine? For example, did he change the lower unit oil every 50 hours or at least once a season? How often did he change the spark plugs etc.? Even if not complete, If you do run into any problems with the boat or engine at least you could get in touch with a mechanic that knows the boat and motor to find out what has and has not been done to it. Make sure the steering wheel turns freely both ways, the power tilt works if it has one. Make sure there aren't any soft spots on the floor of the boat. (a sure sign of stringer damage and very expensive to fix) Make sure the lights, horn, tachometer and bilge pump work. Spin the propellor by hand. Look at the shaft of the propellor, it will have a small hole (dimple) drilled into the end of it. The hole should stay in the center when you spin the prop. If it wobbles side to side you have a bent shaft. (again an expensive fix) The only problem with buying a boat ADVERTISED as a great runner with no problems may be it is from the same seller who is selling the Brooklyn Bridge for the 5th time. Good luck! Let us know how you make out.
 

DDM02

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
32
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

It would be very reasonable to ask to do a compression test. I wouldn't take the boat without doing one. With really bad compression the motor may well start and run fine with no load. You don't want to get the the boat home and find out in the spring the motor only produces 50 hp because of bad compression and then have to do major engine work to correct the problem. Does he have any service records for the boat or engine? For example, did he change the lower unit oil every 50 hours or at least once a season? How often did he change the spark plugs etc.? Even if not complete, If you do run into any problems with the boat or engine at least you could get in touch with a mechanic that knows the boat and motor to find out what has and has not been done to it. Make sure the steering wheel turns freely both ways, the power tilt works if it has one. Make sure there aren't any soft spots on the floor of the boat. (a sure sign of stringer damage and very expensive to fix) Make sure the lights, horn, tachometer and bilge pump work. Spin the propellor by hand. Look at the shaft of the propellor, it will have a small hole (dimple) drilled into the end of it. The hole should stay in the center when you spin the prop. If it wobbles side to side you have a bent shaft. (again an expensive fix) The only problem with buying a boat ADVERTISED as a great runner with no problems may be it is from the same seller who is selling the Brooklyn Bridge for the 5th time. Good luck! Let us know how you make out.


Thank you sir. You helped out alot. I just brought the boat home. (My truck broke down right after. thank god it didnt when i was towing it.) One thing i did forget is to check the lower unit for water. I will though asap. It looks like it was really taken care of. Skeg is broken and the propeller is beat up. I got a new one in the deal. I will weld the skeg together. I knew this before i went to look at it. The little covers in the back are missing and its got a few scraches here and there. Also the seats arent in the best condition but i cannot complain for what i paid for it. Guy seemed legit. Im very happy with the overall purchase. Cant wait for summer. Im going to try to add a few pics.

http://i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv300/bluegixxer1k/IMAG0464_zpseb100999.jpg

http://i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv300/bluegixxer1k/IMAG0473_zpse52f4657.jpg

http://i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv300/bluegixxer1k/IMAG0472_zps01066294.jpg

http://s693.beta.photobucket.com/user/bluegixxer1k/media/IMAG0471_zps82a98fd0.jpg.html

wife seems to enjoy it :)
 

DDM02

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
32
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

Also guy never gave me the drain plug. Anyone know what size it is?
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

Looks darn good!

Standard garboard plugs are 1/2" NPT.
 

tazrig

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
1,752
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

Boat looks in pretty good shape. Did you get a chance to run the motor? Make sure it shifted and ran in forward neutral reverse? (that skeg looks like it was hit awful close to the shifting gears) Do a compression test?
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,119
Re: Running force 120 without a water line

Looks real nice. How come she's just settin??? Get the vacuum and put her to work:)
Kidding, my wife laughs when i suggest??? she help clean the boat. says it's my toy and I should take good care of it.
Be carefull if your gonna weld the skeg. The seals and bearing carrier should be removed so the heat doesn't burn them.
Some poeple don't remove the carrier,I do.
 
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