SAE 30 or 10W30?

cobra 3.0

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I found out from someone here that SAE30 is the recommended oil for my OMC 3.0 Cobra. Will running a good quality 10W30 cause any damage to my engine? If so I'll change the oil in a heart beat!!!
 

chris in va

Chief Petty Officer
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May 4, 2003
Messages
410
Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

It won't hurt it one bit. The only reason multi-vis oils are sold is due to extreme temperature changes for cars. Boat manufacturers recommend 30 because more than likely you won't be operating the boat below about 40f.<br /><br />Just use 30 next oil change.
 

Ralph 123

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Jun 24, 2003
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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

From www.howstuffworks.com<br /><br />Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work: <br /><br />At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. <br /><br />************<br /><br />from www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html<br /><br />Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. <br /><br />Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. ....<br /><br />The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application. <br /><br />The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics. <br /><br />Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic, that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification. <br /><br />*********<br /><br />Also, I'd just point out that the Merc OEM oil for 4-cycles is I think 25W-40
 

Valv

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 12, 2001
Messages
391
Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Ralph...WOW, that was a reply. Thank you very much, I learned a lot from your post.<br />I'll keep it in mind for future.<br /><br />Way to go !!!!
 

cobra 3.0

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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

MUCH THANKS! I feel better and I also know more!!!
 

Lark40

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Oct 29, 2001
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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Well, multi-grade oils have been around since at least the 1960's. (My 1966 Buick owner's manual calls for 10-30.)<br /><br />But, I have to be concerned if OMC decided, 20 years after multi-grade oils were common, not to recommend them, but to specify only 30 grade oil.<br /><br />Accordingly, I only use 30 weight oil in my Cobra.
 

crazy charlie

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May 22, 2003
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5,602
Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Cobra,ant manual you read on any marine engine specifies to use SAE30 and not a multigrade.If it were a car with a transmission which will lower the rpms and allow the engine to work much easier multigrade would be fine.A marine engine runs at higher rpms therefor there is much more demand on the engine as well as the lubricant.This is why a straight weight oil is required.It is the same reason car engines can last as long as they do being used every day and boat engines used once or twice a week for only the summer months dont last nearly as long.Personally,I use sae30 in the spring and sae40 in the summer.Last summer was so hot that I used sae50.You cant get too much protection. Charlie
 

magster65

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Sep 1, 2002
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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

I think the key there is it says the fewer polymers the better. Marine engines don't exactly work like car engines, the demands are much different. My Mercury manual states that straight 30 should be run in it and that's what I'm going to stick with.
 

Stanp

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 30, 2002
Messages
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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

I agree with Magster65. The manufacture for OMC calls for sae30. The clymers manual says (in so many words) not to use multi weight and only use sae30. Thats what I put in my 4.3L OMC.
 

cobra 3.0

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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Guess I should change my oil then just to play it safe! Engines cost way more than oil changes! :D
 

Ralph 123

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Jun 24, 2003
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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

I think this was the key from the research:<br /><br />
Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range.
 

cobra 3.0

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 31, 2003
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1,797
Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Well I changed my oil to SAE30 OMC Cobra oil made for the engine. It appears thicker when you pour it. The 10W30 was only in for about 10 hours of use and it was already looking quite black. I feel better now with the right stuff in the engine.
 

crazy charlie

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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Smart move Cobra,always listen to the manual and you cant go wrong.Now you are better protected inside the motor where it counts. charlie
 

Bondo

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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

I can't Disagree with Anything in this post, But,<br />I run 5W-50 Mobil 1...... Changed at Every 50hrs.w/ Filter.....<br /><br />I've been turning wrenches for over 30yrs,+ Have Never had a Oil related failure in an engine that had the proper Amount of Clean Oil..... Sort of like my signuture, Any Oil is Better than No Oil at All.....<br /><br />I see Many advanages in the new Synthetics... And No downsides....<br />I look at the Manual's requirements as Minimuns....<br />I used straight 30W for the 25hrs Breakin in the little 4.3LX I put together a couple years ago.... Nothing but Mobil 1 since.... And that was over 600hrs ago.... The compression test, oil presure, etc. are the same today as they were at the 25hrs "Tweet Session".......
 

crazy charlie

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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Bondo,I recently read in Boating Mag. why Synthetics were not recommended for marine engines.I will have to look again to see why but I am sure the recommendation came from the oil manufacturer.I will look for the magazine this weekend to find the reason . Charlie
 

Boomyal

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Aug 16, 2003
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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

I have a 1975 Gulfstream 20' runabout, with an OMC 190 hp 302 engine. In 1977 I started using Amsoil 10w-40 synthetic oil with Amsoil's additional bypass filter. Up until 1988 that boat had the snot run out of it every summer doing full days of skiing, pulling as many as 5 people, every other weekend. Today it gets less use, but in 1988 it moved to the PNW from the dry LA area and sits outside, only under it's own cover, all year long. <br /><br />To date that motor runs like a top and does not use any oil. This summer I changed the oil for the VERY FIRST TIME since I started using Amsoil. The only reason I changed it was because I just learned that Amsoil had come out with a new 15w-40 specifically designed for Marine and or Diesel use. Every two years I would change both the normal filter and the bypass filter and top her off with two fresh quarts. At at this point I plan on continuing that pattern until the fiberglass disintegrates into a pile of chips and fiber.<br /><br />I always wondered why the manual specified single weight oil but I had such good luck with Multi-weight Synthetic in everything else I figured I couldn't lose. And I didn't.<br /><br />In 1978 I replaced the original electric shift outdrive (which kept leaving me stranded) with the then new 800 series cable shift. At the first oil change I started using Amsoil 75w-90 gear oil and I've changed that oil 3 times now and that just for grins. Each year I pull the lower oil plugs and inspect for filings on the plugs or any cloudyness in the lubricant and then just screw the plugs back in. Three years ago I had a new impeller installed and gave the shop the Amsoil to refill the outdrive with. Otherwise it is all original.
 

handball

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Dec 13, 2002
Messages
161
Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Speaking of oil, I own a 1992 3.0 v6 ford tauris and can not believe it but this engine has 155,000 miles on it and does not use oil between changes.When I asked my mechanic how come? his reply was it just must be the new oils are so much better then they use to be.Does anyone have a thought on this subject? Also a few years ago I started to use shell rotella oil in my marine engines {30 wt.} because I was told it was one of the best for heavy duty use. Also it is used a lot by the truck industry and in marine diesel engines.<br /><br />What is the best way to change the tranny fluid in a straight inboard mercruiser installation? mercruiser says to remove the lower hydrolic line from the tranny in order to drain it. Is it possible to get most of the fluid out by using an electric oil change pump thru the dip stick opening?
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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13,332
Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Well as far as what OMC recommends, I do use the straight 30 wt in mine but I can't imagine that Mobil 1 10W-30 would not be as good or better, syn oils have many advantages. Only reason why I would not use it in this engine is that it is an original, 15 year old engine, not leaking now but could be if run on syn. I have used syn gear oil in the differentials of my Jeep and it stays way cleaner than the conventional. I also run Mobil 1 syn auto trans fluid in the transfer case, same thing. So if I was starting with a new engine, I think I would use syn. Doesn't Volvo recommend syn for their engines now??
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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Re: SAE 30 or 10W30?

Daimler-Chrysler recommends Mobil 1 15W-50 for it's diesels (new ones at least), and I've started running it in my old diesel Mercedes as well as in my old boat engine ('77 305 Chevy). My son has had good experience over a longer time using synthetic in a high-mileage '94 Ford 4-banger that he drives. The Ford quieted down pretty impressively after a couple of oil changes. So far, I haven't had any leakage problems that were said to be a problem for old engines when synthetics were introduced.
 
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