andrew j cox
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2015
- Messages
- 149
Hey Troops,
wont bore you with the boat details , I’m using a local Aussie Ford 250 6 banger engine in a boat, I was thinking about just running direct drive with a shaft coupling straight of the harmonic balancer, the engine I’m running is an alloy head cross flow all Aussie design, same bottom end essentially as the Ford 200-250 of US origin, just lighter and a lot more powerfull,
the boat is an old style race boat it’s only 15 foot, the cockpit being between the transom and engine, the engine compartment is quiet long, my questions are
Not running a water cooled exhaust manifold, will this create probs with heat,? there no legs anywhere near the engine and it has bulkheads front and rear of engine, access is via twin lift up doors in the foredeck, I figured I can wrap the headers in the heatproof tape, I have another cunning plan, Im running an electric water pump to feed the engine raw water,, I also will via the thermostat housing run the water to header tubes and use water to help quieter the thing down, to save the engine ingesting water via a back fire I’ll just merely fit a shut off ****, I’ll fit a mechanical system in the cockpit to shut it off and open it, I plan on running two bilge blowers too help remove heat out the engine box, plus vents on the engine covers front and rear, I’ll line the box with heat shield too, sound like this will work?
Im going to run the engine as cold as common sense will allow me too, I am very safety orientated I know petrol powered boats can go bang I’m doin as much as possible to make it safe, specially having a carby, im doing away with the carter fuel pump I’ll block the old pump mounting off and run an electric facet type pump through an adjustable pressure reg, I am using the early alloy head block ex XD Ford these run the old BOV-2 Strommy 1V carby, I dislike the Weber carby on the later engines in the XE and F Series Fords, I wonder if the bowl vent in the Strommy can be modified so it becomes an invert J , venting the bowl directly into Venturi, the Ford factory oval shaped air cleaner will do the job, the older cars with chokes with shitty timing you could expect a backfire through the carb I don’t want this lol
Plus these will run the self supporting Bosch electronic ignition , a planetary geared Bosch starter motor will save a ton off wieght, I’ll run a Borg Warner 35 Bell Housing and Flexplate this will save extra wieght, the splined coupling bolts straight too the harmonic balancer which will be a new item, I’ll run a one inch Monel K shaft through a log and skeg,
Running direct drive presents an issue, there ain’t no prop reduction, I know in days off old this was handled by running a big pulley with a V belt to slow the prop down, if it can’t be done with modern props I guess I could run a toothed belt system like a Gilmer belt drive, this motors no hairy arsed thing with a wobbly idle and grunt like a wild pig, 2,500 to 4,000 is the operating rev range where the 6 is happy, top hull speed would be around 45 mph ,
Direct drive also means warming up is interesting, you have to point the boat in the direction you want to go using your second form of propulsion the good old oar, fire the thing and literally idle along until you show a bit of heat on the temp gauge then you can pull the cork out of it .
If and when I win lotto I’ll look at a new BW FNR box and a Water Manifold, feel free to throw other ideas and safety tips.
wont bore you with the boat details , I’m using a local Aussie Ford 250 6 banger engine in a boat, I was thinking about just running direct drive with a shaft coupling straight of the harmonic balancer, the engine I’m running is an alloy head cross flow all Aussie design, same bottom end essentially as the Ford 200-250 of US origin, just lighter and a lot more powerfull,
the boat is an old style race boat it’s only 15 foot, the cockpit being between the transom and engine, the engine compartment is quiet long, my questions are
Not running a water cooled exhaust manifold, will this create probs with heat,? there no legs anywhere near the engine and it has bulkheads front and rear of engine, access is via twin lift up doors in the foredeck, I figured I can wrap the headers in the heatproof tape, I have another cunning plan, Im running an electric water pump to feed the engine raw water,, I also will via the thermostat housing run the water to header tubes and use water to help quieter the thing down, to save the engine ingesting water via a back fire I’ll just merely fit a shut off ****, I’ll fit a mechanical system in the cockpit to shut it off and open it, I plan on running two bilge blowers too help remove heat out the engine box, plus vents on the engine covers front and rear, I’ll line the box with heat shield too, sound like this will work?
Im going to run the engine as cold as common sense will allow me too, I am very safety orientated I know petrol powered boats can go bang I’m doin as much as possible to make it safe, specially having a carby, im doing away with the carter fuel pump I’ll block the old pump mounting off and run an electric facet type pump through an adjustable pressure reg, I am using the early alloy head block ex XD Ford these run the old BOV-2 Strommy 1V carby, I dislike the Weber carby on the later engines in the XE and F Series Fords, I wonder if the bowl vent in the Strommy can be modified so it becomes an invert J , venting the bowl directly into Venturi, the Ford factory oval shaped air cleaner will do the job, the older cars with chokes with shitty timing you could expect a backfire through the carb I don’t want this lol
Plus these will run the self supporting Bosch electronic ignition , a planetary geared Bosch starter motor will save a ton off wieght, I’ll run a Borg Warner 35 Bell Housing and Flexplate this will save extra wieght, the splined coupling bolts straight too the harmonic balancer which will be a new item, I’ll run a one inch Monel K shaft through a log and skeg,
Running direct drive presents an issue, there ain’t no prop reduction, I know in days off old this was handled by running a big pulley with a V belt to slow the prop down, if it can’t be done with modern props I guess I could run a toothed belt system like a Gilmer belt drive, this motors no hairy arsed thing with a wobbly idle and grunt like a wild pig, 2,500 to 4,000 is the operating rev range where the 6 is happy, top hull speed would be around 45 mph ,
Direct drive also means warming up is interesting, you have to point the boat in the direction you want to go using your second form of propulsion the good old oar, fire the thing and literally idle along until you show a bit of heat on the temp gauge then you can pull the cork out of it .
If and when I win lotto I’ll look at a new BW FNR box and a Water Manifold, feel free to throw other ideas and safety tips.
