Sears Motor Identification help needed

[petejung]

Hi everyone. I'm totally new to this board and to boating/boat motors. I also posted this over in the non-repair forum, and I apologize if anyone reads this twice...<br /><br />I came into possession of a Sears outboard motor. It appears to be air-cooled. It has the following number stamped into the plate b ythe transom mount:<br /><br />582 60900<br />27800<br /><br />I have the following questions that I hope someone out there will be ale to answer:<br /><br />What is the year and HP of the motor?<br /><br />I assume this is a 2 stroke model. What is the mix ratio?<br /><br />I assume that I should use chainsaw oil due to it being aircooled?<br /><br />What type of connector do I use for the fuel intake that is located under the front of the motor??? It is just one single round cylinder/recepticle with a hollow pin stiking up in the center of it. I'd say the cylinder part of it is maybe 1/2" diameter or so...<br /><br />The sparkplug in the motor is the goofiest little plug I have ever seen. It is only about an inch tall, and has a ver different connecting end (the part that the sparkplug wire goes to) than I have ever seen. It is a little pin recessed down inside the porcelain.... It says Champion TJ 8J on the plug, but I wasn't able to find this plug on champion's site, nor was I able to find any matching part #'s for the motor model on champions application search site, either. So any help with what kind of replacement plugs to get and where to get them would be appreciated. I think the new champion replacement may be a RCJ8. I did some checking and searched goolge for the champion tj8j, and it came up with a clinton chainsaw that used that plug (a d15 motor chainsaw)... So maybe this is a clinton made motor... anyway, I then went to champion's website and used their application search and found the clinton d15 and it says to use the cj8 or rcj8... I'll check into more on that at the store tomorrow. If anyone has any supporting or conflicting information on the plug, please post it if you have the time.<br /><br />Basically, I'm looking for ANY information on this motor at all...<br /><br />Thanks everyone for taking the time to read this, and (hopefully) to respond.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Sears Motor Identification help needed

Welcome to Iboats, PeteJung!<br /><br />I've got that at a 1966 Simpsons/Sears (Canada) 3.5hp single cylinder outboard made by the Clinton Machine Company. Since it's an air-cooled engine, you're correct in thinking you should be using chainsaw/weedwacker (TC) rather than outboard (TC-W) oil. The mix is heavy at 16:1.<br />Those fuel connectors appear to be hard to find. Your best bet would probably be to contact Twin City Outboards and see if they have one. Alternatively, you could fit a more easily found connector.<br /> <br />The spark plug is a pain for me too. The Champion website lists the Clinton J5 plug as being a CJ14. But I am suspicious that it's wrong and your TJ-8J is correct. A modern replacement would be the easily available Champion J8C if you have room for it, or the CJ8. I have doubts about that magneto being able to fire any of the R plugs, so forget about them. The 8 plugs would be 'safer' anyway since they're cooler than the 14s and at worst they'll foul themselves out rather than hole the piston. All sources seem to agree that a .030" gap is correct (I've found .028 - .033").<br /><br />Hope this helps you some!

 

[petejung]

Re: Sears Motor Identification help needed

Paul -<br /><br />Thanks for the info.<br /><br />I have the following in response -<br /><br />The spark plug is going to be a serious problem, after having been to the store and picking up the plug that is supposed to be the replacement for the TJ8J - it's way too tall and the wrong "type" - the part that the spark plug wire goes on to isn't the same. Are any of the plugs you mentioned the same type as the TJ8J - I assume you know what I mean as you have the same type of motor...<br /><br />Also, I'm not sure how I would go about fitting a different fuel connector. I don't know that much about motors, but this particular motor is set up in such a way that I'd be a bit concerned to try something too radical - here's why, and perhaps you can set me straight if I am in error...<br /><br />Starting at the fuel tank line connector, there is a 2 piece aluminum block that holds the motor side of the fuel line connector and TWO fuel lines going to the engine - one goes up to the carb, and the other runs into the engine block itself somewhere... If you were to look at the aluminum block with the 2 fuel lines coming out of it, the one that goes to the carb comes out of the block horizontally, while the one to the engine block comes down vertically. INside the alukminum block is a gasket, and several ports that route gas , but the one coming from the block has spring loaded plated under the gasket, which to me looks like it would preevnt gas from going from that fuel line through the block unless pressur was being applied from the top, almost like some sort of overflow return or something... That's why I'm not sure if I want to fit another connector. It would be easy to just use the line going to the carb and leave the other one off, but not sure what damage that might cause to anything. There's really no other way to hook another type of connector unless you build your own manifold (assuming you have to have the two fuel lines)<br /><br />This motor may be more trouble than it's worth - as I cannot supply fuel or spark at this point, and no one seems to have parts for them.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Sears Motor Identification help needed

I'm sorry, I did not make myself clear. I do not own a Sea King, I just have a little information about it. I've never seen one of these 3.5hps.<br /><br />That said, it sounds to me like the fuel connector is also the fuel pump. If it only has one _external_ connector/port to the tank, this could very well be the case. The fuel pump on most 2-stroke outboard motors works off pressure pulses from the crankcase chamber. So that tube that runs to the block alternates between positive pressure (only a psi or two) and a slight vaccum with every rotation of the engine. Natuarlly, the tube that runs to the carb carries (now pressurized) fuel. The spring and plate affair forms a diaphram or bellows for the pump. There must also be some sort of check valves, but these might just be flaps of gasket.<br />So I see what you mean about it being important to get the correct connector. You can't very well do without your fuel pump. For the purposes of testing, if you have a regular outboard type fuel tank you can simply hook it directly to the carb and use the primer bulb as a sort of manual pump, bypassing the connector/fuel pump altogether.<br />I can't say I've ever seen a modern plug made quite like thoat one you've got. All those ones I have mentioned use the regular boot style connector. The J8C is the size of a 'regular' spark plug, while the CJ8 is a 'shorty' plug about half the height, but otherwise identical. You could possibly jerry-rig one of these plugs to the spark plug wire temporarily, and once you get it working replace it with a proper spark connector.<br /><br />These are just a couple ideas. With any luck someone with direct experience with your engine will be along.

 

[petejung]

Re: Sears Motor Identification help needed

Paul -<br /><br />THanks for your explanation of the fuel pump - you are exactly right in your assumption on how the fuel pump is made for my motor (there are flaps in the gasket)... So it looks like I am stuck with a problem here. Some guy at discount-marine-parts.com said he had the connector...We'll see. But I though about taking a new johnson two prong connector and jb welding it to the motor's connector - as long as I got a water-tight seal I think it might just work.<br /><br />Spark is my bigger issue... I've thought of a number of different ways to rig something up, but they all involve about 3 rolls of electrical tape.