Securing foam board to hull cavities

[TinManMike]

I have posted a re-build thread for my 90' Wellcraft Eclipse and have been doing a lot of research in regards to the foaming of the hull. I hope to finish tearing out the floor this weekend and will be posting pics of this destruction.

My question is, I noticed a few well respected people on this forum suggesting using the pink board insulation as opposed to the pourable foam. How is this foam secured to the stringers or hull? Any particular depth of foam to use? I know it comes in 1/2" and 2". Install vertical or horizontal?

I'm not trying to cut corners on this re-build, really want to do it right. But it seems like this type of foam would be very easy to work with if it achieves the goals I'm after.

Thanks for any replies guys,
Mike

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Securing foam board to hull cavities

IMHO I'd cut it and install vertically and adhere with PL Premium Adhesive.

 

[TinManMike]

Re: Securing foam board to hull cavities

Woodonglass,
that is kinda what I was thinking. 1/2" or 2"? Just don't want the boat to sound like a truck bed full of beer cans, if you know what I mean. Do you think the structural integrity is any better or worse? Noise killing qualities?

I know plenty of questions, just looking for some feedback.
thanks,
Mike

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Securing foam board to hull cavities

You can wedge the foam in between the stingers pretty tight. I'd get some of each thickness of the panels to allow for the spaces between the stringers. If you cut and pack well it will be just about as effective as the pour in foam. Sound deadening will be too. You should not have any "Rattling" problems if you use the PL. No issues with waterlogging EVER!!! Placing it vertically will give some drainage capabilities as well.

 

[Q_ball]

Re: Securing foam board to hull cavities

My boat originally only had the deck and pour foam but i wanted to have a bilge. I put two stringers bow to stern and cross braces every 24" with 1/2" drain holes in each compartment then cut the foam into bricks 24" long and a little thicker than the deck. I cut the bottoms at the same angles as the hull and used PL the adhere them to the hull and the board next to it. After all the foam was done I used a small brass wire wheel attached to a right angle drill and a straight edge to shave the foam down till it was even with the top of the strigers. The wire wheel cut through the foam like butter and made a perfectly flat surface for the deck to sit on, it did make a bit of a mess but the vacuum sucked it up qiuck.