Re: Seeking Johnson Carb Advice II
Hi Folks,<br /><br />Thank you for your help CATransplant, Seahorse and Clanton. I'll check out the service bulletins as described.<br /><br />It's a '93 Johnson 60HP CD3; and since the Model T/J60TLET/D, S/N G03265019, 5th entry on page 4 under "60 Models" of factory manual P/N 508284. The Clymer book has both the TR for '91 & '92 25-70hp, and the SV for '92-1/2 and later 25-70's, the SV being all that's in the factory manual. As it was bought rebuilt, I'll take a SWAG and wonder could it be the shop used an older set of carbs? I can't find the plug on the power head, having taken the numbers from the plate on the transom clamp. I sure wish the factory manual had 'em both though...<br /><br />Thankfully the kits cover both as you've described, but as Clymer is my only resource besides you great folks, I do have a couple questions:<br /><br />In tear down, we counted the turns to seat for the slow speed mix screw. They were set to 1-3/4, 1-7/8, and 1-3/4 respectively on 1 - 3 from seated. The factory manual isn't really helping me here, but the Clymer has specific turns from seated for various years and HP's. Specifically, it says 1-3/4 turns from seated on '91-92 25-30HP; 2 turns out for '92 60HP with remote, and 2-1/2 turns out for '93-on 48-70HP. Factory manual says it's 2-1/2 for 60HPs, but again, they are referencing SV type carbs, which we don't have. The boat ran fine until this event, so I'm a little mystified but inclined to go with what they were as a starting point. To refresh, VRO is disabled, it's remote, and it's run fine for 4 years; great hole shot, never blows smoke and ran smooth. Any guidance or insight on this?<br /><br />Second, we didn't pull any core plugs on the carburetors, a little skittish to do this without factory manual guidance. Any guidance on whether we should pull the core plugs for inspection as one of these books said? I remember Joe Reeves in one post saying usually it was unnecessary and not done.<br /><br />Lastly, we got all high and intermediate orifices out and they looked clear and clean. #2 carb's intermediate orifice has it's ears wallered out, which made it tedious to get out, but we did and the orifice looks ok. However, Murphy came along and visited my son while putting the last mix screw adapter in the last carb, and he twisted it off (poor guy, after all that!). Anyway, it turned out easily (with my fingers using a broken easy-out!), but we disassembled and recleaned everything and re-blew it all out as a precaution. So we have to order a new mix screw adapter. The mix screws on all carbs looked excellent; true and needle-like. Would we have to replace that with the new adapter for any reason? At $24, I'd rather not, and it seems the brass adapter would be fine as the mix screws are backed out from 1-3/4 to 2-1/2 turns anyway. I figured we'd get a new intermediate orifice when we got the adapter. Looks like OEM P/Ns 0335564 & 0318832, which I'll try to get locally tomorrow to get her done.<br /><br />All three look brand new now, but we haven't pulled any core plugs to look inside. Used 2-1/2 cans of STP Carb cleaner, brushes and compressed air... just waiting to buy the adapter and orifice...<br /><br />Thank you all very much for your time and help, and for wading thru my too-long diatribes! You folks are top-shelf!<br /><br />Best-<br /><br />Chuck & Logan
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