Sensor part #

[jbauman102]

Does anyone know the part number for the sensor underneath the crank shafts pulley on a 2004 volvo penta 5,7 gxi-e?

 

[alldodge]

I'm finding 3858979 item 6 in link below
https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7747740-21-22175.aspx

 

[jbauman102]

Anyone know if this would cause the engine to kick back when trying to start and idles rough. I've checked everything else and someone told me this might be the problem. The engine has good compression, no vacuum leaks no water intrusion no codes on the scanner, rebuilt fuel injectors, new iac, cap and rotators look good.

 

[Fun Times]

Anyone know if this would cause the engine to kick back when trying to start and idles rough.

While the crank shaft sensor could present an odd issue such as that as they've been known from time to time to do odd unpredictable scenarios without any warnings including not setting any fault codes, Typically the usual thing for them to fail is just shut down the engine completely as that sensor is the "starting point" for the ignition reference signal for the system to mostly produce the correct spark timing along with many other features to keep the entire engine system working in correlation to one other.

^ The other higher possibility of the same thing happening as far as sensors go could be your CAM shaft sensor mounted under the distributor cap which is item number 6 in the following link, https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en...-28-22485.aspx

Now if you're going to just throw parts/sensors (Crank/CAM/Coil assembly) at it and are worried about the OEM prices then the cheaper alternative is that you are able to buy the same GM parts (or aftermarket) from any GM dealer (or auto parts store). Just look up a 1998 GMC truck 5.7L 255 HP and it will be the same parts.
If you really want to test cheap, run the Volvo part numbers on EBay, there are aftermarket Crank sensors for as low as $10.00 listed but I'm sure you get what you pay for so order 2 to be safe.

If you'd like to try and test the sensors then with an open mind of the wiring colors, pin-outs, etc. aren't exactly the same because these tests are done on a GM truck...These general guides should help guide you along some,
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/...crank-sensor-1

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/...e-cam-sensor-1

Another question that needs to be asked, Was the distributor assembly disturbed/turned for any reason at all? If yes it's most likely out of adjustment causing running issues.

 

[jbauman102]

Yes the distributer was taken out when I had the heads rebuilt but we checked the timing and it was good. Thanks for taking the time and replying I will check on those sensors and let you know what I find.

 

[alldodge]

Yes the distributer was taken out when I had the heads rebuilt but we checked the timing and it was good. Thanks for taking the time and replying I will check on those sensors and let you know what I find.

The timing is critical on these motors and is not done with a timing light.

 

[Fun Times]

Yes the distributer was taken out when I had the heads rebuilt but we checked the timing and it was good. Thanks for taking the time and replying I will check on those sensors and let you know what I find.

Was the engine running in the same condition as it is right now before removing the heads?

If not (and still possibly either-way) knowing the distributor was disturbed then honestly checking the sensors may be a waste of time at this point. Trust AllDodge and I when we say concentrate on re-setting this designed distributor back to normal settings which is not done exactly like the old traditional methods of using a timing light. The new method is called phasing in.

The first link below is a good guide from Volvo that will help you reset your Distributor assembly (AKA) HVS = High Voltage Switch.
http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=7001823

If the link doesn't seem to work then follow the info in here on post number 8 as it will take you to the link above, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...ing-on-5-0-mpi

Please let us know what the final outcome is...Hope the above is the issue for you, Good luck. :encouragement:

 

[jbauman102]

When I get to the link and click on the pdf it doesn't download it just opens another blank page, is there another site I can go to? Also my boat mechanic did all the work wouldn't you think he knows how to set the timing right and it runs fine when not idling.

 

[alldodge]

Try This

 

[jbauman102]

That didn't work either just goes to a blank page.

 

[alldodge]

It's something in your setup then. If your using a smart phone I have no idea how to help, other then you need adobe reader installed. If your using a computer then you need adobe reader installed and it should ask if you want to open or save to file.

Other wise follow what Fun Times mentioned in post 7

If the link doesn't seem to work then follow the info in here on post number 8 as it will take you to the link above,
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...ing-on-5-0-mpi

And if that doesn't work :noidea:

 

[jbauman102]

I tried it on two computers both with adobe but just pulls up a blank page so maybe the link is gone.

 

[Fun Times]

Also my boat mechanic did all the work wouldn't you think he knows how to set the timing right and it runs fine when not idling.

This may not necessarily be the bad running issue you are experiencing but at this point knowing the distributor was disturbed plus not really knowing the exact skill/training level the installation tech has towards the newer, modern ignition systems such as this (< for the Marine side anyways) It is surly worth the extra effort to double check the installation process due to if it is off just a few slight degrees which is easy to do, yes it could have an effect on just the lower RPM speeds (But so could the CAM Sensor)......Plus the "WE" used a timing light suggests something may not be/isn't setup correctly on the HVS system.

Below is just a quote from another professional marine tech that mentions that over the years, he's had to personally reset up many distributors of this design,

Since the HVS was pulled then someone probably did not know how to set it all back up and phase it in correctly. Then the next step would be to check Cam angle with a real scan tool after the fact to dial in that spec. Merc is the same way to Volvo. Not properly set up and phased - Could set an alarm, cause misfire and even shut down engine and or will not exceed above the 2000 K to 4000 K depending how far off your NOT phased in properly (for a jist).

For many years I have had to do so many of these thru out since 2001 because people think you can set timing with the HVS. - It is way past 100's of them as being out of phased.

Like I said you can not set any sort of timing with the HVS.

This all applies to - MEFI 4 and up and ECM / PCM 555 and PCM 09 and up and all E controls not using a true distributor - all marine side of course. just for a jist of the apps and set up.

the HVS cap also becomes bad as 5 and 7 crossfire so a new quality cap and rotor is must. Start there first and see if that helps - If it will not help and if no cured is found on your HVS cap and rotor then the HVS needs to be phased / set up properly.

What is the general back story of why the heads needed redone? Did the engine run the same then as it does now?

If your using a smart phone.

For what it's worth due to curiosity, Double checking the linked PDF on my iPhone, it opened right up even faster than my laptop.:noidea: What model phone do you use/have to try?

 

[jbauman102]

I have a Samsung Galaxy s6 I even tried it on my daughter iphone . Could you download it and email it to me?

 

[jbauman102]

The heads had a crack in them.

 

[Fun Times]

Here's a screenshot image for you. Below in step # 9 was just caught up in the image screenshot twice is all.