Shift Cable & Cold Starts

[Boilers2000]

3 quick questions on seperate issues.

1. Had a fuel/water seperstor filter installed over the winter. Marine shop left the old filter and said they can't alter a USCG approved fuel system. Boat takes for ever to start after it sits for the week. After it starts it starts perfectly the rest of the day. I've given some full throttle pumps to prime the system, but that first start after sitting for a week or longer takes a while to get her going.

2. Over the winter had shift cable replaced as part of bellows service. Now when I shift from reverse to neutral the drive doesn't disengage reverse until I shift to Fwd than neutral. Any ideas what could be causing that and is it something I can troubleshoot?

3. Have a couple knicks in my prop, how bad until you replace the prop?

its a 92 mercruiser 4.3LX with an alpha one Gen 2/SEI 116 drive.

Thanks in advance for any insight or input.

 

[Furbird]

Need further info on the first one. So did you get something that is not USCG approved or what exactly is the issue? If they left the old filter then all they did is create more problems. That is illogical.

Second one is an adjustment issue. Believe this is the link that somebody on here has shared before.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-s_tgevX2aI&feature=youtu.be

 

[Boilers2000]

So what the marine shop said was they can't alter the USCG approved stock system. From what I can tell between 92 and 93 mercruiser switched from the inline filter to the a can filter that mounts to a bracket that is tied into the motor mount brackets. mercruiser sells the part (807172A1), but the guy said but the mechanic said he can't remove the original filter because he would be alterting an approved system. The conversion kit is exactly what every boat from 92.5/'93 had so I was surprised he could do it. So yes the old filter is there as well. I asked when I picked when I saw thats how they did it, and he said it would be fine. Im going to call this week to complain, but I'm starting to get a little concerned about this shop. When they did bellows service they limit puck was set two inches over spec, the drive was almost in trailer mode. Could have been an honest mistake, but still left me a little concerned and frustrated.

Thanks for the link on the shift problem too!

 

[Furbird]

OK, but my point is "we can't alter the USCG system" yet they CLEARLY altered the USCG system by installing the filter you gave them? I don't know if that's a real reason or not but they violated it anyway if they did. Very strange. The limit switch thing should have been checked, but was probably just an honest mistake upon reinstallation. I would mention that but the filter thing is contradictory and that should be the focus of your issue with them, IMO. The guy that owned my boat before me had bellows and gimbal done about 3 years ago and the trim was way off when I checked it, and it simply was because they forgot to tighten it all the way down. Not a big deal in the grand scheme of things but for somebody that doesn't know anything about boats it could cause an issue. Mine was nowhere near as far off as yours was though, that sounds like they just clocked it wrong from the get-go.

 

[Boilers2000]

Video was helpful, so as i shift out of reverse into neutral would there no be enough travel of the cable to full disengage reverse? Is that the right way to think about it? Could I try test on the trailer by by putting it in reverse, prop should lock, back to neutral prop should spin freely? Thanks

 

[Boilers2000]

Ran by the boat tonight...drive unit cable measures measures correctly at 6 inches (according to the Achris video)...the remote control shift cable only measures 1.5" from fwd position of the cable to the neutral position, per the service manaul I think it should range from 2 7/8" to 3 1/8" to be in spec. Can you measure while its all hooked up? In neutral prop spins freely, move it reverse prop wont spin clockwise, move it back to neutral prop spins freely. Currently stumped! Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

 

[achris]

Ok. You need to find a new shop, fast. 'Not allowed to alter the existing system' is a load of crap! Merc produced the kit to do precisely that, alter the existing system.

Was it shifting properly before the shift cable replacement? If so, it's something they did. And again, find another shop.

Taking 'forever to start' could be a consequence of the new filter. One thing that has come to light recently is problems caused by over-tightening the brass fittings in the new filter housings. Doing so cracks the aluminium, and that's enough to let air in and drop the fuel system prime. The result is the engine takes forever to start, especially if it's been sitting for more than a day... Merc even released a bulletin on it...

Chris....

 

[Boilers2000]

Thanks for the feedback Chris. On the shifting issue yes it was working properly before the cable was replaced with bellows service. For the fuel issue is there a way to test if there is a leak or if the system is primed before I try to start? For that conversion kit since it mounts to the motor mounts, is it a job you can do in the driveway or do you need to support the motor as you remove the bolts to attached the bracket?

Thanks again for the input!

 

[achris]

Thanks for the feedback Chris. On the shifting issue yes it was working properly before the cable was replaced with bellows service.

So it'll just be an adjustment. BTW, if a shop can't even handle a simple cable replacement with messing it up, that speaks volumes.

For the fuel issue is there a way to test if there is a leak or if the system is primed before I try to start?

Vacuum leaks in fuel systems are usually found by putting a clear hose between the pump and the carb, and watching for air bubbles. The other option, and this is the one I'll try first, is just remove the filter housing and examine it VERY closely around the fittings. If you remove the fittings first, then the cracks will close up. The other thing you could do is after you remove the housing, and with a filter still on, pressure test the housing and the fittings.

For that conversion kit since it mounts to the motor mounts, is it a job you can do in the driveway or do you need to support the motor as you remove the bolts to attached the bracket?

Thanks again for the input!

No need to support the engine. You'll be removing the top 2 screws, but the weight of the engine and the bottom screw will hold it in place... It's not difficult to do. All the parts you need, and instructions are in the kit.

The only advice I'd offer is either use a thread sealer/lub (such as Loctite 567) or a couple of turns (2 MAX!) of thread tape, being careful not to get any of the tape over the edge of the fitting. Then just snug up the fitting. Over-tighten and it will crack the housing. I think there's even a torque figure in the instructions.

Chris..

 

[Boilers2000]

Thanks again Chris. For the cable adjustment is the measurement able to be taken while remote shift cable is assembled or is the measurement not accurate? Want to try to narrow it down for the existing shop to try to correct and/or point a new shop in the right direction? Maybe try to adjust my self.

 

[achris]

You must disconnect the remote (lower) shift cable from the shift plate and make sure the drive is in forward, and the prop locks when turned CCW (what would be reverse) in order to make the measurement.

The adjustment isn't difficult. I did a video on it. Seems to have helped a few people, so click the 'My Videos' link at the bottom of my post signature.

Chris.......

 

[Boilers2000]

Thanks Chris, appreciate the insight.

 

[Boilers2000]

Was exploring the shift cables again tonight and looking for fuel filter housing cracks.

1. Couldn't find any cracks, but when I gave it throttle I got a spray of fuel into the carb. The boat has sat for almost 2 weeks. If there was a micro crack somewhere would all the gas evaporate?

2. Release the shift cables, and the lower is 6" and the one with shift assist is 3", i measure wrong the first time. As I was reading through the service manual I saw something about the cutoff switch. When I checked tonight shifting into fwd the cutoff switch roller stays centered, but when I shift into reverse and move to WOT the roller is sitting above center. One of the things it says to check is that the adjustable stud is at the bottom of the slot in the shift lever, but my adjustable stud is sitting up a bit, 1/8 gap maybe. Could the be the culprit? My understanding is that the cutoff pauses the engine for a ms to make shifting out of gear easier, is that correct?

Thanks in advance for any input!