Shift Cable Issue?

[Nardo1895]

Hi, I’m new to the forum (and to boats) but you’ve already helped me with replacing the trim switches on my Alpha One sterndrive. Lot of work and a poor design IMO, but I digress…

I started having trouble with the engine dying when I shift into reverse and sometimes into forward. The general direction I get from past posts is it’s a lower shift cable problem. I have done a lot of reading to try and figure this out and have a few questions I was hoping you could help me with. First, I have a 1984 Sea Ray with an Alpha One Model 260R outdrive (SN 6779786 ) with a 5.7l V-8.

1. Before I start the major project of replacing the shift cable, could it be an idle speed/mix issue? I’m using the boat at about 5200’ elevation and it is carbureted.
2. Sterndrive.com has a pretty through (and scary) description of the replacement process. Is it really that hard? While new to boats, I’m pretty good with other vehicles. Do I really need a special $40 9/16” deep socket?
3. I have gotten conflicting direction on whether I need to know the cable length before ordering. Pro Bass said yes, Sterndrive said no. The manual appears to indicate the old style was no but the new style yes. I tend to believe the Sterndrive rep, but I’m so confused…
4. This might be a better question for a separate post, but I have a “hard spot” in my shift command when I let off from full throttle. I really have to push hard to get past it. I assume the shift command has a separate cable for the throttle? Could this hard spot be related to the shift cable or would it be more likely to be the throttle (upper?) cable?

Thanks, Mike

 

[camalot]

It's really not that hard a job to do changing the shift cable, tricky yes but not hard. Yes you do require the long reach 9/16 socket no other way of doing it. You may also have a hard spot with the remote, but this will not play any part in the interruptor or switch that is cutting the engine out. If the interruptor is staying engaged and killing the engine it,s time to replace it. It,s a three hour job so maybe worth paying a yard to do it for you!

 

[Bt Doctur]

1 possably, whats it idling at?
2 not that hard, remove the drive, remove the old cable, install the new one reconnect and reinstall the drive, weld a donor socket to a 9/16 socket
3 No, the newer style comes in one length, DO NOT CUT IT
4 control box issue, cable routing issue, bad/binding cable

 

[Nardo1895]

1. Not sure of the idle speed, I should have checked the tack. If I had to guess I'd say about 600 RPM. Smells a little rich but it idles pretty smooth.
2. Great tip. Sterndrive replacement article said it needed to be thin walled in order to fit?
3. With the risk of sounding really stupid, I understand I should not cut it so that means I need to know the cable length before I order the part?
4. OK, will check for that.

Thanks

 

[Bt Doctur]

the shift cable to the outdrive comes in 1 size, the control cables from the control box to the rear of the motor comes in multiple sizes.
Order the newest type. aft entry for the GEN II drives 18-2603

 

[JerryIrons]

If you are going to replace your lower shift cable, you might as well change the bellows as well, and probably the water line. Yes the sterndrives description is a little scary, but I don't think it's that bad as long as you go by the mercury service manual. (and sterndrives) I just replaced mine, and used mercruiser parts and it wasn't as bad as I expected. It wasn't easy, but it wasn't a nightmare either. They make a shift cable kit that has the right cable length, at least it was for my alpha one.

If you go to the engine, and take the barrel out of the holder, and then try manually shifting the outdrive, by pulling the cable and pushing the cable, you can get an idea of how stiff the cable is, and if it needs replacing. It should pull and push pretty easily. Part number I used was 865436A03

 

[Nardo1895]

The irony is I just replaced the trim switches which required me to remove the bellows. They were in good shape and I needed to get the boat back in the water for a planned outing so I reinstalled the old ones. Figured I'd replace them at the end of the season just to be safe. I bought a new cable and am in almost the same situation; pressed to get it running again. I may go ahead and see if I can get new bellows quickly as I really don't want to do all this a third time. I did replace the water hose as I buggered the old one up getting it out. I should probably start a new post, but do you need the special bellows expanding tool to install a new bellows? I didn't need it to reinstall the old ones but I wonder if the new ones may be tighter.