Shore Power Ground

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Jan 24, 2004
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17
Working on a project boat. AC shore power cord is standard 30 AMP inlet. I traced all the wires inside the boat. The ground wire goes to the AC distribution panel. Question is should the AC ground wire be connected to the ground points on the engine blocks (i.e. same ground as DC electrical system) or should the two grounds be isolated.<br /><br />Thanks<br />eric
 

Drowned Rat

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Jan 20, 2004
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Re: Shore Power Ground

The AC power can be grounded to the engine block or other solid ground. It does not need to be isolated from the DC system.
 

snapperbait

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Aug 20, 2002
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Re: Shore Power Ground

Correct..<br /><br /> I'll add that if the boat stays in the water, you may want to add a galvanic isolator to prevent any stray current from eating up underwater metals, like props, ect. ... <br /><br /> Make sure the boats bonding system is up to par as well..
 
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Jan 24, 2004
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Re: Shore Power Ground

Snapperbait,<br />When you say "make sure the boats bonding system is up to part as well" do you mean that there is an electrical connection between all the metal parts like thruhulls, rudders, engine blocks, fuel fills, etc. There are some green wires of about 10 AWG running around the boat to the fuel fills and the engine blocks. I'm not sure if there are connections to the seacocks. Could you elaborate on bonding systems.<br /><br />Thanks<br />eric
 

snapperbait

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Re: Shore Power Ground

"do you mean that there is an electrical connection between all the metal parts like thruhulls, rudders, engine blocks, fuel fills, etc." Green wire... Yup, you got it Eric... Anything metal, especially underwater, needs to be tied in... <br /><br />The bonding system ties in all the metals to reduce their electric potential, and it allows the zincs (sacraficial annodes) to do what they are intended to do.. Without an electrical connection to the underwater metal part the zinc is there to protect, putting a zinc there to protect something is basicly worthless...<br /><br />The bonding system also protects from A/C electricution, lightning damage, and it helps reduce RFI radio interference too...<br /><br />There's usually a heavy copper strap running somewhere in the bilge like along a stringer or across a bulkhead.. All of your bonding wires for each metal part should be run directly to the strap, not daisy chained together... For the system to be effective, clean connections are the name of the game... When in doubt, cut the wire back and re-connect it..<br /><br />ps. always use wire thats specifically for bonding, and bigger wire is better.. 10 AWG is usually plenty sufficiant... ;)
 

John Carpenter

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Nov 1, 2002
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Re: Shore Power Ground

Let me begin by saying that there are few things on this earth that confuse me more completely than anything electrical...AC or DC. I also want to make it clear that my sole intent in making this post is to further intelligent discussion that may clarify things for myself and others. The small problem regarding mistakes in wiring a boat is increased galvanic corrosion. The big problem is that you can be made dead.<br /><br />When I started reading this thread my first thought was that the advice being given was incorrect...that the AC and DC circuits must be kept separate....just "knew" that. Long story short, I went to find various articles on the subject in a DIY marine maintanence magazine that I subscribe to. Just my luck, the experts are not in agreement here. Of course, on this subject, it is possible that I read...but don't understand. I quote:<br /><br />"For integrated DC and AC panels, marine electrical standards require that a physical, non-conductive barrier, be provided by the manufacturer between the DC wiring and the AC wiring to prevent accidental crossover of the two power sources, or contact with high voltage supply or connections. DC and AC circuits can also be handled by matching, yet separate, main electrical panels." This says to me that the systems should be separate. However...<br /><br />In another article by the same author, three years earlier (1998) "American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) recommends that the incoming AC green ground wire be bonded to the DC ground on board. This common ground provides protection from electrocution in the event that AC current escapes from the AC wiring on board (i.e. through a short in a AC battery charger). This common ground, however, can set the stage for major galvanic corrosion problems, since stray current in a marina can enter a boat through the AC ground wire and pass into the DC system."......"If the incoming green AC ground wire is bonded with the boat's DC ground, install a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer to prevent stray current from following that path."<br /><br />If you do any amount of reading on this subject you will find that there are a great many people who think the ABYC has cranial rectal inversion here and that bonding is not a good idea. As I stated at the beginning...I am clueless. One of the arguments against a common AC/DC ground is that if you have a short on the AC side...you are sending live AC current into the water via your thru hulls, prop shaft etc. Make sense?<br /><br />Hoping to learn something from the forthcoming discussion. Best Regards..........John
 

snapperbait

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Re: Shore Power Ground

" One of the arguments against a common AC/DC ground is that if you have a short on the AC side...you are sending live AC current into the water via your thru hulls, prop shaft etc. Make sense?" Yep!<br /><br />This is why the galvanic isolator is so important.. Even better to have one thats equipped with a moniter, which I think is the rule now..<br /><br />The isolator allows both sides to do their intended job while canceling out the adverse effects of each other.. Plus, it has the added benefit of protecting your boat from other offending boats who may be docked near you by blocking/isolating you from the galvanic current of the offending boat...<br /><br />Little FYI.. A galvanic isolator should be rated at least 135% of your shorepower amps.. example: Lets say you have a 50 amp shorepower supply, so you need an isolator rated for 67.5 amps (70amps)...<br /><br />Hope this does'nt add to the confusion.. ;) <br /> galvanic isolator explained
 

18rabbit

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Nov 14, 2003
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3,202
Re: Shore Power Ground

The AC power can be grounded to the engine block…
Fwiw, I would not use a boat’s engine block to ground anything, AC, DC, or whatever. See Snapperbait’s excellent advice on galvanic corrosion.<br /><br />An excellent discussion on the pros and cons of connecting AC and DC grounds can be found in “Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual” by Nigal Calder. In a nutshell, as per the author, ‘floating’ the AC circuitry reduces galvanic corrosion potential, but increases electrical shock potential. Combining the grounds reduces shock potential but increases corrosion potential. Personally, I don’t see how there could be a middle ground (pun intended. :D ) <br /><br />The book is an outstanding reference source that is revised on a regular basis. I highly recommend it.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2004
Messages
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Re: Shore Power Ground

I started this thread because as I was going through the AC electrical system on my project boat I found that the green ground wire at the power inlet was grounded to the DC ground (i.e. connected to engine blocks). To me that was counter intuitive, that is why I posted here. In talking with people I knew I got mixed reviews regarding this issue. The people in the don't connect cited examples of boats being attacked by galvanic corrosion, and others had stories of electric shock. I found literature from ABYC showing the connection of the ground wire, however there was no explanation for the reasons why. I thought the article Snapperbait referenced from BoatUS was very informative. They did a good job explaining galvanic corrosion and the reasons for connecting the AC and DC grounds together along with the use of a galvanic isolator. I have come to the conclusion that the correct way is to connect the two grounds and put a galvanic isolator in the ground circuit. <br />Thanks<br />eric
 
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