soft fuel primer bulb

indyboy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
89
Hi everyone.... I have a 2003 Bass Tracker Targa with a 90 HP Mercury outboard. I have 2 issues that may be related. First of all the fuel primer bulb doesn't get near as firm as all of the other ones I have used over the past 20 years on various other boats of differing makes. This is by far the newest boat I have owned. I disconnected the fuel line from the engine and when the primer ball is squeezed it pumps fuel from the built in tank with every squeeze. It just doesn't get very firm...like it isn't fully filling with fuel. The second issue is that when this engine is cold I have to go on and off choke for up to 2 minutes before it will stay running. After it warms a bit it starts instantly and runs fine. Also the boat throttle response is lazy until I get it up to high speed for a few moments. The flip side of that is that after I do get up to speed the throttle response will be fine after that. I can go from idle...hammer the throttle...and easily pull skiers out of the water with no hesitation at all. Could this be related to a bad primer ball? Maybe after some high speed running the primer ball problem is overcome? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
indyboy, first of all, it sounds like you have a cold natured engine. But I would also check the fuel pump for output and pressure. Could be the fuel pump could need rebuilt or replaced. Secondly, if you haven't ever removed and rebuilt the carb(s), now would be an excellent time to buy carb kit(s) and rebuild them after a thorough cleaning. JMHO!
 

indyboy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
89
Thanks for your advice gm280. I have had many Mercury outboards so I do know that they are a bit cold blooded. The old fuel line primer bulb set-up used ty-wraps to hold the pieces together. I removed them and used hose clamps. Even though the primer bulb still doesn't get as firm as I think it should I went to a local lake today and she started much easier and ran perfectly with excellent hole-shots. I always run Sea Foam in all my gas motors and have never had a clogged carb issue. That stuff is amazing! Thanks again and Happy Boating!
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,788
Welcome to the cold natured Merc triple looper. I had the 2002 edition and that was almost verbatim my problems. What control box do you have....Commander 2000 or 3000. The 3000 has the big black button on the base of the handle used for fast idle? Why am I curious? I personally prefer the 2000 with the lift lever mentioned below as it is much easier to engage the choke function.

The bulb should pump up firm when the carbs get full. I had to replace my fuel line at 10 years due to the inside scaling, a tan scale shaped in little semicircles, the diameter of the inside of the line....3/8". I replaced the bulb with the OEM while I was at it.

Just save some time here. get a new fuel line and Merc/jQuicksilver squeeze bulb. Ensure that the arrow points toward the engine when installing. Check all the fuel lines for crud while you have the thing open. Very possibly your extent of cold natured problems can be attributed to lack of fuel prime in the carbs.

Second, you need to ensure that you use the fast idle and have it at max. On the 3000 you have to put the shifter in N and wiggle it while pushing the button till it engages (pushes in about 3/8"). Then advance the throttle/shift handle to WOT position while holding it in. What you just did in doing that was to disengage the shifter mechanism from the handle and it functions as a throttle only. On the 2000 there is a lever at the rear of the control that you lift up. Lift it as far as it wants to go.....roughly 80 degrees up from where it is when you are through using it. On the 3000 bringing the lever back to N will reset the lever to function as throttle and shift. On the 2000 just push the lever down onto the box when finished, before you shift into F......saves the gear train. Little additional info, the idle is 675 +/- 50 rpm per the service manual. If you are too low it will want to die when you shift into gear and too fast you crunch your gears when doing the same movement.

The key switch has a detent and that's your fuel enrichment, aka choke. I used to push mine in for 15 or so seconds and roll the key on over to start while keeping the key pushed in. If it doesn't light off in about 15 -20 seconds, re do the bulb and start over with the enrichment. Be ready as soon as it lights off to cut the rpms back to 1500 give or take. If it wants to quit on you leave the throttle where you had it, just push in on the key till it recovers and let go....key will be in the ON position during this additional priming with the engine sputtering/running. Give it a minute or so to warm up and you are good to go.

On the first hole shot of the day, hands down the sucker would fail. I'd have to nurse it up onto plane and run it like that for 30 seconds or so. Then I could cut the throttle back to idle, get back in the hole, fire wall it, and she'd take it like a champ. Like yours, usually started immediately the rest of the day with no choking or bulb squeezing and take the hole shot every time unless I shut it down for like an hour or so. Then a little fast idle usually did the trick without having to prime again.

This was a dream of an engine and would run my little boat right at 50 gps with just me. I loved it........once you get it going in the morning...a PIA!
 

enginepower

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
260
Bulb should definitely get firm. You either have a bad bulb or a leak somewhere. A torn fuel pump diaphragm could cause the issues you are seeing plus the bulb won't get hard because you are dumping the fuel into engine.
 

DavidMoore

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
183
Agreed

If you can disconnect the fuel line, block it off with something and see if the primer bulb can be pumped to firmness. If so, you have a leak in the engine.
This could be a fuel leak in the engine fuel pump caused by a pin hole in the diaphragm or a stuck float valve on a carburetor.
 

indyboy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
89
I have the 3000 control box. I have had this control box on other boats I have owned and know the fast idle starting position and key controlled choke method well. I will remove the fuel line and block it off to see if it pumps up to firm while disconnected. Thanks for that tip...I never thought to try that. The boat runs awesome after a brief mid-RPM cruise so I think the fuel pump is OK. I will most likely just have to replace the original 12 year old fuel line and primer ball set-up. Thanks everybody...You make this the best site on boating! :)
 

indyboy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
89
My boat actually uses 5/16 ID fuel line from the tank nipple to the barbed connector on the engine. Local Mercury dealer said that was normal.
 

enginepower

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
260
I have the 3000 control box. I have had this control box on other boats I have owned and know the fast idle starting position and key controlled choke method well. I will remove the fuel line and block it off to see if it pumps up to firm while disconnected. Thanks for that tip...I never thought to try that. The boat runs awesome after a brief mid-RPM cruise so I think the fuel pump is OK. I will most likely just have to replace the original 12 year old fuel line and primer ball set-up. Thanks everybody...You make this the best site on boating! :)

You would be surprised. A small hole in diaphragm will show up mostly at lower speeds. Once the pump hits high rpm it can overcome that small leakage due to higher pressure and volume. At least we set you on a path. I'm sure you will find it.
 

indyboy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
89
She runs perfectly at all speeds. Smooth idle and great power and response throughout the RPM band. It was the 12 year old fuel line and bulb. It's nice when the fix is that easy! :)
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,788
My boat actually uses 5/16 ID fuel line from the tank nipple to the barbed connector on the engine. Local Mercury dealer said that was normal.
5/16 to 3/8 gets lost at the mid range engine level, so you could have either. The bulb has 2 sizes of connections on each end so you can use the one that fits.
 

indyboy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
89
The project has been completed. The entire external fuel line and primer bulb assembly is 5/16. Had the boat out cruising for over an hour today and all is perfect. :)
 
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