Solder and heat shrink vs. crimp and tape

Baylinerchuck

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More of a rant than anything else, and in my opinion should be common sense. When making wiring connections on any trailer it's best to solder splices and use heat shrink to seal out the weather. I've fixed many trailers with shoddy wiring mainly stemming from butt splice, stake on and taped connections. All the supplies to do it right can be had really economically from Harbor Freight and will save countless moments of aggravation. I even go as far as adding solder to ring terminal connectors that I screw to the frame of the trailer making them corrosion resistant. Also, it's best to connect the ground wire on your lights to the main frame of the trailer, not the bolt on galvanized brackets that have a tendency to slightly loosen or corrode over time. Taking a few hours to sure up your trailer wiring while its in decent shape will save you a complete rewiring later. It doesn't take long for copper strands to turn black and corrode when exposed to the elements. Happy trailering!!!
 

bruceb58

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I even go as far as adding solder to ring terminal connectors that I screw to the frame of the trailer making them corrosion resistant.
That's actually the worst thing you can do. Solder wicks up the wire and makes it brittle. A fixed connection like a ring terminal will cause that wire to break off eventually Use a good crimp connector with built in heat shrink and good crimpers over that method every day.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-electrical-supply/wire-connectors?cat=85
 
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thumpar

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I only solder. Every connection I make is soldered including the big ones with 4 gauge.
 

mjf55

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I am in the crimp camp. I use a good crimp tool and heat shrink adhesive connectors.
 

SeaDooSam

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I use heat shrink butt connectors, crimp them,and THEN put heat shrink over that.
 

DeepCMark58A

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I am a solder and shrink tube, I also put silicone inside the shrink tube before I put the heat to it, shrink it till the silicone starts to ooze out.
 

DeepCMark58A

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That's actually the worst thing you can do. Solder wicks up the wire and makes it brittle. A fixed connection like a ring terminal will cause that wire to break off eventually Use a good crimp connector with built in heat shrink and good crimpers over that method every day.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-electrical-supply/wire-connectors?cat=85

This would happen if you overheated the copper or used a torch to solder, a soldering iron is not going to heat the wire much beyond the solder.
 

bruceb58

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Solder wicks down the wire making it basically a solid piece of wire where it leaves the connector. Has nothing to do with how hot it gets. Vibration then cause the wire to break.

Since its a trailer, not super critical...worst thing that happens is you lose your lights. Just don't don't do it in your boat, auto or airplane with anything critical.
 
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StarTed

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Both crimp and solder are fine if done right. I do both and have good results. The trick to solder is to not wick the solder up into the insulation unless securing the wire rigidly at the connection to prevent vibration.

I like to add a little liquid tape after connecting then put on the heat shrink. Some crimp connectors have open ends and water can wick in causing corrosion. Seal the end and between the wire and connector with liquid tape then apply heat shrink seems to work quite well. Let the liquid tape dry before applying the heat shrink. I don't have 20 years experience with this method but it seems to work the best for me.

JMHO.
 

Thalasso

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Soldering is fine as long as each end of the solder joint is secured so it doesn't give to flexing
 

bigdee

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The key to either method is to water proof the connection. One is as good as the other if done correctly.
 

gm280

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For the record, both crimp and solder connections are used on Military aircraft. It all depends where and the type connection being made. Myself, I use both as well depending where it is. And to keep solder from wicking up under the insulation, you use a thermal shunt clamp or even dewicking (anti-wick) tweezers. They come in every gauge size for those wanting to do it the absolute perfect way according to Mil Specs. But then you thoroughly clean the solder connection with an Acid Brush and Alcohol before heat shrink. But we all do what we like and move on, and worry about issues down the road later. I can say I never ever use those splice connectors that cut into the wire to add a second wire to the circuit. There are the worst. Standard terminal ends crimped on wire ends or even pins and sockets in a cannon type plug use a special 4-way crimping tool to do the job the correct way. They work very well. As usual, the correct tools for the job is always the best way to accomplish quality connections. JMHO!
 

444

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As someone who works in the transportation industry, crimp connectors don't work on trailers, for long anyway. Moisture penetration will eventually penetrate and cause problems. If you use bare crimp connectors, then heat shrink them, you will be ok. The insulated type don't do well on the road.
 

bruceb58

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As someone who works in the transportation industry, crimp connectors don't work on trailers, for long anyway. Moisture penetration will eventually penetrate and cause problems. If you use bare crimp connectors, then heat shrink them, you will be ok. The insulated type don't do well on the road.
These do very well:
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Heat-Sh.../dp/B01GJ97AXA
You heat shrink them down and they have adhesive in them making them perfectly water tight. I have used them in an underwater application and they still are fine after many years.
 
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444

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These do very well:
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Heat-Sh.../dp/B01GJ97AXA
You heat shrink them down and they have adhesive in them making them perfectly water tight. I have used them in an underwater application and they still are fine after many years.

We tried em. They don't work. I've got a couple hundred dollars worth of them gathering dust in the parts room for years. The only ones we've had any success with are the bare ones that you can slip a proper length piece of double wall, glued heat shrink over. Even those eventually fail. As soon as any bit of moisture gets in there you get corrosion.
 

Sprig

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I solder and use either heat shrink or liquid electrical tape. The liquid electrical tape is handy, easy to use and works great. In certain applications I use both.
 

Benny67

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Any mechanical connection (crimping) will over will deteriorate and develop resistance...resistance = voltage drop = failure

Bruceb's advice about NOT tinning wire then crimping is spot on...under NO circumstance should that be done...it will turn to s**t in no time. Mechanical crimps are meant to be crimped on stranded tinned copper wire...meaning each individual strand is tinned copper...not the entire wire itself.


And yes...everybody uses them ect...they work fine in most cases. However, they will eventually fail due to the fact that moisture dirt ect will permeate into the wire and cause it to deteriorate..and with that comes resistance and so on and so on... Soldering and using shrinktube with sealing adhesive is the way to go in marine applications.

Hands down, solder and shrinktube WHEREVER you can when it comes to joining two wires together...if possible for the trailer's application use the shrinktube with adhesive in it..(DWP-125/Raychem or similar) Hell...anywhere on a boat you should solder and use self sealing shrinktube. But if you do need to use crimps, they sell ring terminals and fork type crimps that you can fill the back of with silicone to minimize the wire wiggling and stay off some of the moisture that may make it's way into the crimp.

Worst case, they sell butt type crimps that can be sealed with a heat gun. You can crimp them and then seal them up with the shrinkable jacket....it's better than nothing. They sell them at Harbor Freight.
 

bruceb58

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If you use a butt connector and solder it or crimp it, that's just the mechanical attachment aspect. The water getting in is a completely different aspect and wire will corrode whether you use solder or crimp. Water travels under the insulation and travels down the wire. The corrosion aspect is how you seal the connection...not if you solder or crimp.

The Ancor butt connectors uses a heat shrink sleeve that has heat activated epoxy inside.

I use fully tinned wire on my boat and my boat trailer to minimize corrosion even if water gets in.
 
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