Some advice for a noob :-)

[nerys]

I am about as broke as I have ever been in this economy yet I have more toys than I have ever had before! While I have zilch for cash Bartering has proven very successful

I now have 2 boats. a 27ft sailboat with trailer and a 19ft power boat with trailer.

Got the sailboat for $150 and the larson in trade for a rusty only 75 300D I had.

On the larson I am seeking some pointers etc..

its a 1974 All American 186 with a 1978 140hp Evinrude.

The floor seems ok but the deck is shot. I have already ripped it out tossed in a sheet of 3/4 ply so I could enjoy it right away

I am hoping if I just list everything I found wrong with it that maybe those more knowledgeable than me can point me to a good thread url or book so I can start the restoration/update.

It runs and functions. Had it out 3 times already (just spun the hub in the screw so I have to replace that before I can take it out again)

I am specifically looking for construction details for this boat. I need to know what I am looking at so I know how to proceed. I plan to do 99% of the work myself (can't afford to pay anyone anyway)

When I remove the "deck" I don't really want to call what was there a deck hehe

the plywood was so rotten it came away as PASTE under my fingers! I knew would could get bad but never knew it had a liquid or gel state hehe

well thats all gone now. I put it nose down power washed the living crap out of it and then put it nose up and let all the sludge go away. Did this a few times.

I did some research on boat construction and this one seems odd. From what I read stringers on on the inside of the hull but ATTACHED to the hull right?

once I got rid of the ply floor/deck I discovered mostly FOAM except in the bilge which is void of material to the glass inner hull surface. (I have not gotten to the bow yet it seems solid and I am too big to get in there for a close inspection will have to attack that if I manage to pop the cap off this winter)

How do I determine if the foam is compromised?

There is "wood" embedded in the foam but its clearly NOT attached to the bottom of the hull.

is this simply support points for the deck? ie can I simply shovel dig this goop (thats what it is now) out and replace it? is there something NON wood I can replace it with? I am hoping maybe I can find some scrap aluminum or something. is there a reason it was wood. should I use wood or is it ok to replace it with something else? since there is not MUCH there I was thinking of making some FOAM 2/4's and laying up some kevlar carbon weave on the foam 2/4's as a "form" and using that. is that ok? how does layed up carbon and kevlar handle a moist environment? I use it in rockets all the time but rockets do not have to deal with water

Is the foam GLUED to the hull? ie can I remove the foam in blocks so I can reuse it later or does removing it destroy it? (so I can access the stringers?)

the Transom seems ok I grabbed the motor and shook it hard enough to rock the boat in the trailer no give no undue flexing feels rock solid.

Found a guy who will bottom pain for $360. is that a good price? (the bottom is in rough shape. the glass is ok but the pain is pretty much gone chipping peeling etc.. many layers it seems. I ripped a piece of amateurishly applied glass to what seems a patch job (have not looked at it closely yet) plan to redo that.

Ok the hull appears to be 2 pieces. top half and bottom half.

they do not appear to be JOINED in anyway I can see except by this aluminum "stuff" that is aluminum rubber aluminum bumper around the entire perimiter of the boats edge where the top and bottom half joins.

Its missing a section. HOW is this secured to the boat? (they shove some SCREWS into it in a few places and into the hull obviously this is not working so well its just tearing holes in the fiber glass.

How do I maintain repair replace this stuff? where do I get it?

the part where its missing (starboard amidships to aft around the corner to to its termination point.)

the two halves of the hull are not quite aligned right anymore and the "lips" are chewed up a bit.

suggestions?

Gel Coat. its got tons of tiny little stress cracks especially anywhere there was a penetration (such as the "snaps" for whatever cover it used to have)

I found some videos on gel coat repair it does not seem hard to actually DO but color matching might be a problem.

I was thinking of removing the top plate upper half of the hull doing all the little dozens and dozens of gel coat repair in simple white and then taking it to someone to shoot a color on it.

will that work? will regular automotive paint and clear coat WORK on this? ie last and be durable? I would love to re gel coat the whole top but I have a feeling that such a task would cost more than the entire rig is worth.

The window is in sorry shape. they appear to have tried to use some goop to attach it. I am not even sure IT IS attached by anything more than this goop crap they have on it. How are they supposed to be attached?

part of the problem seems to be the bow is "sagging" and forming a bow shape. I think I can fix this. there is a wooden structure in the middle that would seem to structurally SUPPORT the center of the boat top half right there. its shot to hell. I am thinking if I replace that it will restore support to the bow top section and reflatten that surface for the wind screen.

suggestions?

also can I alter the windscreen? its too low. even with the back to back seats on the boat (way way too low painful for me to sit in at 6'3") I already got some 13" tube seat pedastals will get swivels and bucket plastic seats next week.

this is going to put my head quite a bit above the window. I am thinking I could stand the window straight up and just change the "side" pieces on the wind screen to support this new angle. Is this feasible? suggestions? Can I get a taller wind screen that will fit this boat?

how is it even supposed to be attached to the boat. I really think if I yanked it that it would come right off though it has not move yet (it moves like a hinge fore and aft though but has not "lifted up" yet so I figure SOMETHING must be holding it in place than just the crap they used to try and seal it?

It has a few wiring issues but the wiring is very minimal and simple won't be hard for me to just run new wire to the problem items (right now I just hook the stern light directly to the battery when night comes bow light still works but its only $13 at wally world so I will replace it so its new and shiny (the one on there is faded and pitted)

the outboard lower drive unit ?? is pitted REALLY badly How do I repair this? ie how do I "refinish" the surface? is there a marine epoxy that will adhere to this so I can "fill in" the pits and refinish paint it? ie what is the right way to deal with that? Can I grind down the metal (I fear that might make it too thin!) ie whats the procedure for repairing this? what causes it?

anything else I should look at deal with take care of?

the boat is a bit too small for my tastes. I want to TRAVEL places in the boat so I need faster (It maxes at 24mph right now though the hub may explain part of that) and a place to sleep for overnight weekend trips. but for something to place with restore and have fun with till I can afford bigger its a blast so far. Very happy

any help suggestions reading sources information etc.. would be greatly appreciated!

I am going through that massive thread now where someone extended there boat. its good reading so far

Thanks!

 

[NoKlu]

Re: Some advice for a noob

The completed boats forum is also a good place to see how a few different guys did their restorations. Look for any info in the threads about core samples as you will need these to check the true condition of the transom and stringers. If the foam comes out it's garbage. If it is wet at the bottom near the hull it is garbage as it acts like a big sponge and will never dry out. You can decide if you want to replace it unless,in your case, it is part of the structure of the boat. The best thing you can do is to post pics of the boat so the experts on this forum can see what is going on and advise you on how to proceed. You may have a cored hull which will need different approach than a standard glass hull. It's sounds as though your boat will need a complete stringer and transom job if the plywood is a far gone as you say but it's an expensive job to do properly. The members here will not advise you on a patch job if they feel the boat is not seaworthy. Do some more reading and get some pics up and you'll have all the help and advice you need to get your boat repaired.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Some advice for a noob

Check some of the other resto threads for pointers...several good threads detailing restos from start to finish. Take a core sample of the foam, it's probably water saturated...time to rip it out and replace it.

 

[nerys]

Re: Some advice for a noob

Well I am very very addicted to taking pictures so later today I will have a tonload of pictures online for you to check out.

I am pretty certain its seaworthy. I have had it out 3 times already and its extremely well behaved solid and well mannered under power and just floating.

I was really impressed that I was able to stand on the gunwhales and it only tilted a small amount (I am over 400 pounds)

I have already had over 1100 pounds of people in the boat (5) and besides taking a few extra seconds to plane up it took it in stride as did the floor.

I did find a new "gotcha" I off course was warned about the "hole" in the floor that you have to stick a plug into. I would never have guessed it was there if I did not read it in the boaters handbook

well there is a second hole up where the motor is at the top of the transom. in this area there is an access hatch to get ahold of the bilge pump. well when my sister and her boyfriend sat in the far back this hole was far enough down to take water and then the water entered the through the bilge access hatch and stayed since the boat was properly plugged and the bilge chose that day to puke (thankfully they are cheap)

we took on so much water that the boat struggled to "plane up"

on a hunch I tried the "plug" and it fit this hole perfectly so I shoved my spare plug into the hole. Perfect Fit I am not sure if I was SUPPOSED to plug this hole or not but it fits so its plugged now.

I hit some pretty heavy chop and some nasty wakes (inexperienced as to proper handling around these things) and wow can a boat really SLAP the water in these conditions. Took it like a champ. no buckling no undue "flexing" etc.. I was really surprised just how strong these things are. I have already been out into the ocean with it with no issues (except that salt water film is annoying covers everything and rusts the hell out of my hitch wiring. Gonna have to rerig is to be water proof.

The one "slap" was particularly vicious. a tug boat went buy so I tried to take its wake at 45' as the book said too alas I fubar'd the approach since I took a 45' path me/tug path relative not WAKE relative. since the wake comes off at an angle (shockingly similar to a supersonic shock wave now that I think about it) I ended up taking the wake perpendicular. I bet if I had a camera on the outside of the boat I would have seen several inches of "air" below my hull when I hit that one. It sure felt like it

Overall I am very pleased with the boat. Its going to get a lot of use from me I also love projects. Its going to be fun tearing it down and rebuilding it.

Right now its 600mb worth of pictures. So I have to wittle that down compress shrink sort etc.. I will post a link once I have them online!

In the mean time if there are any particularly good threads or url's I should absorb please let me know.

I tried using the search for a few things but my lingo is inadequate or something I keep getting too much flak from both iboats and google searches.

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Some advice for a noob

The floor seems ok but the deck is shot. I have already ripped it out tossed in a sheet of 3/4 ply so I could enjoy it right away

Floor and deck are the same thing??? It's just called a deck in a boat, its the bottom layer that you would stand on, and everything is mounted to inside (seats, etc.)

I am specifically looking for construction details for this boat. I need to know what I am looking at so I know how to proceed. I plan to do 99% of the work myself (can't afford to pay anyone anyway)

See my suggested steps below

I did some research on boat construction and this one seems odd. From what I read stringers on on the inside of the hull but ATTACHED to the hull right?

Yes no matter how the stringers were designed they should have been attached (at the least) to the lower hull, it may be that the adhesive has deteriorated from the rot. Most of the time they were not "glassed" over and sealed which is why they rotted in the first place.

once I got rid of the ply floor/deck I discovered mostly FOAM except in the bilge which is void of material to the glass inner hull surface. (I have not gotten to the bow yet it seems solid and I am too big to get in there for a close inspection will have to attack that if I manage to pop the cap off this winter)

How do I determine if the foam is compromised?

If it has that much rot, then you can pretty much bet the foam is compromised... just squish it and see if water comes out (its best to take a sample that goes all the way to the bottom, as the top half may be dry while the bottom half is still water soaked)

There is "wood" embedded in the foam but its clearly NOT attached to the bottom of the hull.

is this simply support points for the deck? ie can I simply shovel dig this goop (thats what it is now) out and replace it? is there something NON wood I can replace it with? I am hoping maybe I can find some scrap aluminum or something. is there a reason it was wood. should I use wood or is it ok to replace it with something else? since there is not MUCH there I was thinking of making some FOAM 2/4's and laying up some kevlar carbon weave on the foam 2/4's as a "form" and using that. is that ok? how does layed up carbon and kevlar handle a moist environment? I use it in rockets all the time but rockets do not have to deal with water

I don't know about kevlar/carbon, but you can make non wood stringers, and encase them in glass there are a couple different products you can use (seacast, etc.), but they far more expensive than simply replacing with wood, and fiberglassing them in to seal them, that will last you pretty much forever if done airtight, and over 20+ years even if you make a mistake and they get some water in them

Is the foam GLUED to the hull? ie can I remove the foam in blocks so I can reuse it later or does removing it destroy it? (so I can access the stringers?)

See above, but its most like compromised, when it was originally put in, it was a 2-part chemically expanded foam, that is extremely sticky so it glues itself in. You can choose to replace with 2-part foam, or buy the foam sheets (pink/blue) from a hardware store, and cut to fit. This is easier to do, and less messy at about the same price overall, (the marine grade 2-part foam is very pricey).

the Transom seems ok I grabbed the motor and shook it hard enough to rock the boat in the trailer no give no undue flexing feels rock solid.

If the rest of the deck/stringers are that bad, I would suspect the transom is shot as well, even if it isnt, you will have the whole boat apart, and its just a minor additional expense to replace the transom as well, have piece of mind, and know 100% sure you have something solid in the back.

Found a guy who will bottom pain for $360. is that a good price? (the bottom is in rough shape. the glass is ok but the pain is pretty much gone chipping peeling etc.. many layers it seems. I ripped a piece of amateurishly applied glass to what seems a patch job (have not looked at it closely yet) plan to redo that.

bottom paint is typically only used in boats that are stored on the water.. you don't need bottom paint if the boat will be trailered... I don't know about the price (never had one done, as I trailer my boat).

Ok the hull appears to be 2 pieces. top half and bottom half.

they do not appear to be JOINED in anyway I can see except by this aluminum "stuff" that is aluminum rubber aluminum bumper around the entire perimiter of the boats edge where the top and bottom half joins.

Its missing a section. HOW is this secured to the boat? (they shove some SCREWS into it in a few places and into the hull obviously this is not working so well its just tearing holes in the fiber glass.

How do I maintain repair replace this stuff? where do I get it?

the part where its missing (starboard amidships to aft around the corner to to its termination point.)

the two halves of the hull are not quite aligned right anymore and the "lips" are chewed up a bit.

suggestions?

Yes the boat is built with a lower hull, and a "Top Cap". the top cap is secured to the lower hull by a series of either rivets or screws going all the way around the perimeter at the joint. The joint is under the aluminum/rubber (thats called a rub rail). Your rub rail should go all the way around the boat except for the very back where the cap meets the hull at the engine. this area was typically just glassed in, or set in and riveted in place with a piece of trim. If any of the rub rail aluminum is missing it will need to be replaced.

You will be able to get this at any marine supply.

Gel Coat. its got tons of tiny little stress cracks especially anywhere there was a penetration (such as the "snaps" for whatever cover it used to have)

I found some videos on gel coat repair it does not seem hard to actually DO but color matching might be a problem.

I was thinking of removing the top plate upper half of the hull doing all the little dozens and dozens of gel coat repair in simple white and then taking it to someone to shoot a color on it.

will that work? will regular automotive paint and clear coat WORK on this? ie last and be durable? I would love to re gel coat the whole top but I have a feeling that such a task would cost more than the entire rig is worth.

Your best bet is to remove all the hardware, and sand off the existing gel-coat if it is that cracked up. Yes it will be pricey to re-do, but you should re-do it with gel-coat back. Now if you JUST want to do the top cap, you can use a suitable "topside paint". But it may not be as bad as you think... I spent about 400 bucks to re-gel my entire boat (top and bottom)(15Ft. Tri-hull). that includes the sprayer, gel-coat, acetone (to clean and cut for spraying), and the coloring agents.

I would absolutely re-gel the bottom hull. Strip off the bottom paint, sand it with fine grit to rough it up, and re-gel. a lot of people do "paint" their boats, but IMO it is not as durable as gel-coat.

The window is in sorry shape. they appear to have tried to use some goop to attach it. I am not even sure IT IS attached by anything more than this goop crap they have on it. How are they supposed to be attached?

The window should be screwed into the top cap, either up through the bottom into the window frame, or down through the frame into the cap (it would be underneath these protective strips where you can't see the screws). It may have a sealer or foam cushion underneath it to reduce vibrations to the glass, and seal it to the top cap.

part of the problem seems to be the bow is "sagging" and forming a bow shape. I think I can fix this. there is a wooden structure in the middle that would seem to structurally SUPPORT the center of the boat top half right there. its shot to hell. I am thinking if I replace that it will restore support to the bow top section and reflatten that surface for the wind screen.

suggestions?

Yes , if the deck is shot, the center section is likely sagging, and causing the two halves of the dash/consoles to also sag into the middle, which will cause your windshield to misaling and possibly not be able to close the center window

also can I alter the windscreen? its too low. even with the back to back seats on the boat (way way too low painful for me to sit in at 6'3") I already got some 13" tube seat pedastals will get swivels and bucket plastic seats next week.

this is going to put my head quite a bit above the window. I am thinking I could stand the window straight up and just change the "side" pieces on the wind screen to support this new angle. Is this feasible? suggestions? Can I get a taller wind screen that will fit this boat?

Most of these types of windshields were just that, too short, they dont really do anything... does it have snaps across the top of it??? Most were designed with snaps and you had an extenable clear plastic piece that was sort of a half bimini top that secured to it making it the full windshield for going with the weather. I would advise against standing it up directly, its going to be a big flat winddrag, and also more suseptable to failure.

how is it even supposed to be attached to the boat. I really think if I yanked it that it would come right off though it has not move yet (it moves like a hinge fore and aft though but has not "lifted up" yet so I figure SOMETHING must be holding it in place than just the crap they used to try and seal it?

already answered above.

It has a few wiring issues but the wiring is very minimal and simple won't be hard for me to just run new wire to the problem items (right now I just hook the stern light directly to the battery when night comes bow light still works but its only $13 at wally world so I will replace it so its new and shiny (the one on there is faded and pitted)

thats fine if its such a simple harnest you may consider just re-wiring the whole thing properly, so you know whats there, and don't have a wire mess with a mix of old/new stuff.

the outboard lower drive unit ?? is pitted REALLY badly How do I repair this? ie how do I "refinish" the surface? is there a marine epoxy that will adhere to this so I can "fill in" the pits and refinish paint it? ie what is the right way to deal with that? Can I grind down the metal (I fear that might make it too thin!) ie whats the procedure for repairing this? what causes it?

The pitting is caused by electrolysis in the water. There should be a renewable steering tab on the lower unit just behind the prop, secure to the underside of the cavitation plate. If its gone, or severely pitted it needs to be replaced.

As for the rest of the metal, it really depends on how deep the pitting goes... if its not too bad, you can media blast it, sand it down, steel wool, or whatever you think, to get to a bare aluminum finish.

It then needs to be sprayed with Zinz Chromate Primer (special anti-corrosion primer for aluminum), then it can be re-painted with outboard marine paint.

If the pits are too deep you may be looking at replacing the unit for it may eventually fail. You could also try to have them filled by an aluminum welder, but they should remove all the parts from the housing before doing so.

anything else I should look at deal with take care of?

You will want to go through all of the fluids/filters, no matter what, change the engine oil, change the oil filter, change the water seperator filter, lower unit gear oil, PTT fluid, steering fluid (if it has power steering), etc. You don't know how old this stuff is, or whether or not it has absorbed moisture from all the years of sitting.

You will also want to change the water pump impellar in the lower unit. they get brittle when sitting and you dont want that to go and leave you stranded.

the boat is a bit too small for my tastes. I want to TRAVEL places in the boat so I need faster (It maxes at 24mph right now though the hub may explain part of that) and a place to sleep for overnight weekend trips. but for something to place with restore and have fun with till I can afford bigger its a blast so far. Very happy

It may be due to additional weight from water logged foam as well, since you will have it apart, and basically rebuild it, this may help the issue.

any help suggestions reading sources information etc.. would be greatly appreciated!

I am going through that massive thread now where someone extended there boat. its good reading so far

Thanks!

that is hands down the best documented thread for a rebuild on the site. It goes over pretty much everything you will need to do from building/laying stringers, transom, deck, etc. (you can just skip the stuff on the extension part).

Although oops did somethings with a bit of an overkill (transom )

If I were you this is what I would do: (this is just a summarized list, you will need to find the information for each step)

Before you do anything, completely go through the engine, and make sure you have a good power plant before wasting time on the boat. Have a compression test done, and all the fluids changed as indicated above, and water test (if possible to do safely). Once you know you have a good engine, then begin the rebuild:

1. remove the engine/outdrive
2. remove the rub rail
3. seperate the top cap from the hull
4. completely gut the inside
5. (make sure you take pictures of where everything goes so you know how to put it back)
6. Clean hull/sand so new glass can be applied
(For the below steps all wood should be sealed prior to installation)
7. Rebuild stringers and attach, glass them in
8. rebuild transom, attach, and glass it in
9. replace deck , glass it in
10. flip boat and do bottom hull work,
10a. sand,
10b. repair major cracks/problems
10c. re-gel coat
11. Flip the boat back, and finish building/replacing the interior
12. Finish the top cap work (either topside paint or gelcoat)
13. reinstall the top cap
14. reinstall rub rail
15. reinstall engine
16. reinstall windshield
17. finalize all your interior work, wiring, etc.
18. enjoy the boat

If you have any more questions, let us know!

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Some advice for a noob

well there is a second hole up where the motor is at the top of the transom. in this area there is an access hatch to get ahold of the bilge pump. well when my sister and her boyfriend sat in the far back this hole was far enough down to take water and then the water entered the through the bilge access hatch and stayed since the boat was properly plugged and the bilge chose that day to puke (thankfully they are cheap)

we took on so much water that the boat struggled to "plane up"

on a hunch I tried the "plug" and it fit this hole perfectly so I shoved my spare plug into the hole. Perfect Fit I am not sure if I was SUPPOSED to plug this hole or not but it fits so its plugged now.

This is called a "splashwell" and its designed to keep the water out of the boat because this part of the transom is lower for the outboard. It has a hole in it so the water drains back to the outside of the boat... it really shouldn't be "that" low to the water, that the hole in it would allow water to come in... seems like there was too much weight in the back of the boat.

Also I have never seen one that wasn't water tight (kind of defeats the purpose of it). Is the "hatch" in it factory or did someone add this???? I would be interested in seeing a picture of this part of the boat.

But yes you can put a plug in it (they were designed like that). You can have someone pull the plug while running on plane, and the water will drain out.

Be careful about having that much water in the boat!

 

[nerys]

Re: Some advice for a noob

Too much to quote so I will just reply and context should make it understandable what I am replying too.

First I am immensley grateful for all the information so far. This is going to be an extremely pleasurable project

Stringers. OK it seems clear the wood I am looking at is NOT the stringers (found some better pictures) this wood is clearly non structural regarding the hull. So the stringers must be under the foam.

This winter I will rip out the foam for inspection. the few chunks I ripped off were bone dry inside but since I want to inspect the stringers anyway I will remove it regardless.

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You can make non wood stringers. Out of what?

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Transom is pretty solid. Its dry with no rot (I drilled a hole and checked refilled with epoxy) so I am guessing someone prior to me replaced it already. If I do the full tear down (and I probably will) I will replace it anyway. Can I replace it with metal? ie no wood?

I will have to do some math and see what it would cost to replace it with carbon kevlar weave. a thin wood base and then layed up should result in a lighter and far stronger transom. if I can do it for under $200 I will probably try that if you guys don't see a problem with the material selection. Every now and then I get a really good deal on carbon kevlar weave. Usually its far too expensive to consider

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bottom paint. Yes this boat will always be trailered so I won't worry about bottom paint. if it only costs $400 to regel I may go that route since its the same price as bottom painting and I can do all the prep work myself.

For the top I would really love to get one of those "flake" gel coats like the new fishing/bass boats have. I want to see what that costs.

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Top cap Rub Rail. ahh ok so the rub rail just "sits" on it and the two halves are in fact secured together. Ok thats one of the first things I will do ie yank off the rub rail and see what I am dealing with.

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"but you should re-do it with gel-coat back" what is gel-coat back ? how is this different from gel coat ?

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Window.

I really need it taller and a wee more vertical (just a few inches and there is a perfect spot to mount my laptop for the plotter software (water resistant itronix military machine))

its plexiglass with an aluminum "frame" how hard would it be to get make or whatever the VERTICAL pieces of metal? if I could replace the 4 vertical pieces of metal I could cut TALLER plexi and make the wind scree taller that way (plus I would prefer to replace the plexi anyway though its not in that bad a shape)

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Ok I know the center console structure thing is shot when I was using the vacuum PIECES of it came away into the vacuum hehe Thankfully besides the floor there is very little WOOD in the boat. I am hoping to get just enough of it out "intact" to use it as a template to make new pieces.

An idea just HIT me. I am thinking maybe I can use some coruplast (corugated plastic think cardboard but of plastic) and then glass it.

4 layers of alternative direction coruplast and then a glass layer should result in a VERY strong rigid 100% waterproof panel. Hmm going to have to price the stuff and see how much I need. this might also make a very nice deck base but I have a feeling it would be too expensive for that function. I might not even need to glass this stuff if its rigid enough in 4 layers.

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YEs the windscreen has snaps and I have the original top (well most of it the back and one side are missing.) it was actually a very sharp looking design. reminds me of a soft top corvette.

alas WAY WAY too short my head would go right up through it even with the original shorty seats. my shoulders would go through it with the taller seats I am installing.

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Wiring Harness. For now I will run new wire to make it operational for the rest of the season. When I tear it down I will definately redo the entire harness in double (when I redo simply harnesses I make and run 2 so I have redundancy.) I have never had to USE my redundant harnesses yet but I know the first time I don't do it is the first time I will need it anyway the whole boat won't need more than $30 in wire.

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Pitting in the lower unit.

yes I noticed the steering tab its clean painted and intact. I assume this is to counter the "walk" or "precession" of the screw?

I notice at slow speeds below 10kts it tends to want to walk the screw a lot. I was thinking of adding a simple "keel" or an extension on the lower unit so help with this as I love slow cruising but its a pain to keep it going in a straightish line. At above 14-15kts I don't even have to touch the wheel except to make slight corrections now and then. tracks nice and straight.

the pitting is pretty much strictly limited to the leading edges. I have some pictures I will post.

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Fluids filters. yes did most of that already. replaced the filter with a simple glass filter (till I find replacement filters for the water separator which I definately WANT on the boat especially with this filthy stinking criminal ETHANOL gas they are shoving down our throats. Thankfully my tank is plastic and not fiberglass.

Ahh it pumps well but that sounds like a good idea. How do I do this? where can I get the equivalent of a service manual or Chilton book for these things?

Anything online? (I found all the books for my goldwing online

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Well then oops and I will get along nicely. I LOVE overkill hehe

I believe if your going to do something make it last forever or as close to it as you can get

IF I do regel I am thinking of cutting open the bow and making it an open bow boat. Ideas?

--------------------

Engine. Actually I am not too worried about the engine. Its old and probably won't last more than another season or two but its also one of the reasons I got an outboard. I can just hunt craigslist for another $300-$400 outboard and put it on there if its too expensive to repair it.

It has idle issues you have to choke it to keep it from stalling but after I ran it for 3 hours it idles a LOT better. in fact most of the times I can idle no choke and it will stay running though stall once in a while at no choke idle.

its a wee rough at slower speeds (I am going to check compression first thing) which could be a damaged cylinder vacuum issue.

but once I speed up its solid and smooth though I can not get it to 4500rpm (though I have no idea how accurate the tach is)

every time I take it out it gets smoother and better so a lot of it might just be age sitting around etc..

Hopefully next week I will have enough for the new screw/hub unit and get it back on the water.

------------

Splashwell. YES the splashwell has a HOLE cut in it with a panel to access the bilge pump. So this hole is not supposed to be there? it was done well enough that I thought it was factory.

Maybe I will put a LIP around it to keep water from falling in this hole.

Oh I know. The moment I realized how much water was in there we turned around and headed back. sadly about a 1/4 the way back is when the hub slipped. Grrr Was able to attain about 8kts without further slipping so it took some 3 hours to get back but it was a wonderful trip back. Cool no bugs no humidity and a gorgeous sunset. Very pleasurable and it did not strand me! so I am happy.

We must have bailed some 20+ gallons before we stopped (when we got it down to the top of the bilge pump and could see no new water was coming in (at first I thought I had a hull breech) we stopped.

once out of the water it drained AT LEAST another 60 or 70 gallons of water and thats being VERY conservative. No wonder it had trouble planing up

-------------


Refoaming the boat. I can use regular household insulation foam? I though that stuff was open cell and would water log?

Thanks SO MUCH again for all the feedback. This is going to be a ton of fun. Slow for lack of funds but its going to be fun.

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Some advice for a noob

Im about to go out of town in 2 hours... so I'll have to get to your questions on late sunday or monday if that's ok...

Sorry for the delay

 

[nerys]

Re: Some advice for a noob

Listen up Numlaar. I am a total stranger here and your willing to devote a not insignificant chunk of your life along with others to help me and provide information.

To be anything but grateful would be rude in extreme.

this is something I am going to be doing from say November to march. So a delay of a few days weeks whatever is irrelevant. I appreciate any information or help I can get.

I have 0 doubt I can handle this project with my existing skill sets. but doing it RIGHT and doing it WELL are critical and could save me a lot of money in not having to REDO it later

 

[jonesg]

Re: Some advice for a noob

When all is said and done, a lot said but little done yet,

water in the splashwell should not be able to drain into the bilge, that must be sealed and 2 bilge pumps are safer, I have one on a manual switch and one mounted higher in the bilge that is on an automatic switch.

A single cheap pump can sink you in a flash.
Boats have sunk just getting caught in rain storms with balky engines and a cheap pump.

a 1974 boat is almost certain to need the transom and stringers done, be very carefull jumping waves,

my boat is a 74 too, I jumped a couple of waves and the splashwell started to crack. The transom was mulch.

 

[nerys]

Re: Some advice for a noob

I can see why the person would have put the access hole there. Where else do you put the bilbe. I guess you can put it in the center channel and unless told otherwise I guess thats where I will put it.

I also got the pictures organized and ready.

the whole mess is uploading now so give it 5-10 minutes to finish (Its done uploading now)

http://www.rocketrylive.com/Larson

I will get a picture of the splashwell today as well I noticed I did not take one of that part.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Some advice for a noob

I'd say its a total gut job, stringers deck and transom are shot, get a new rub rail, remove the windshield and fix it right or toss it.
Some minor glass repairs on the rear corners, but most of the work is new stringers and transom.

The zinc's are gone from the engine, there should be one on each side of the mounting bracket right at the very bottom beneath the lower bolts that hold the engine to the transom. Thats why theres that corrosion on the engine.

Should be other zincs on the lower leg too.

Get a couple of plastic fenders for the trailer and change the bearings for sure. You'll be all set.

 

[nerys]

Re: Some advice for a noob

Actually the trailer is in good shape. previous owner really took care of it (likely not the original trailer for this boat) I am getting a set of fenders. I don't really need them since the boat extends past them (I asked) but I like how they look so will get them anyway.

The transom is very solid and based on that trim piece on the back I do not think it is original IE I think someone already did the transom. If I end up tearing out the foam to do the stringers I will replace it again anyway just to be on the safe side and its a minuscule extra cost once I am that far into it anyway so why not.

Does it have to be wood? I am wondering how much a piece of 1/4inch aluminum plate would cost (probably way more than I am thinking

Maybe a solid carbon fiber transom. I think I can do that for about $150 (I will have to check the square footage) figure I could do a coruplast sandwich base wrapped in carbon/kevlar weave.

Are these "zinc" things standard stuff at any marine shop? what do they cost? (I plan to use it a few more times before the season is over here so I might as well halt that corrosion.)

Suggestions on repair? is there some kind of filler I can use epoxy maybe that will stick to the aluminum? (I am thinking "bondo" for boats kind of thing?)

ie something fresh and saltwater tolerant?

Thanks!