Somebody Kill me! Please!

[tranzam]

No, seriously, kill me. I have a lark 35, previously identified as being made in 1959. I have the ignition wired up so it starts, and that's working well. The problem is getting it to stop. I've checked my wire connections, using a multi-meter, and testing for connectivity through the switch to the kill wire (bolted to the center lug of the vacume kill switch). When I turn the key on, I see the resistance on my multimeter go to one (no connection) and when I turn the switch off, I get 3 ohms resistance (I would consider it negligable). But the engine will not stop. I pulled the flywheel off, and checked the wires connection, and it appears to be wired correctly, because it is connected to the green lead wire that comes off the condenser. I've referred to both the Seloc and Clymer manuals, and neither has a good picture of how it's connected, only a schematic, and neither has any information on how to diagnose a failure in the "stop" circuit.<br /><br />Anybody know a quick way to fix this?<br /><br />Also, while I got your attention, are these motors equipped with a tachometer lead, or teperature sending unit? I'd like to hook up some gauges to monitor the engine a little better.<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />-Jason

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

Hehe...<br />Seriously, you ought to measure some resistance to ground off the vaccum cutout pulse post. It has a wire leading to the condensor, which is connected at the point, which is connected to the ignition coil. The DC resistance between the coil and ground is near nothing. If the coil was open then the ignition on that cyl would not be working. Therefore it's got to be an open (break) in the wire leading from the vaccum cutout post to the point. That's a common problem since those wires are bent by the armature plate moving.<br />Said another way, what you measured *should* read zero off (+ meter offset) to just above zero (like 0.2 above offset) on.<br /><br />EDIT - The original OMC tach connected to the kill wire. There's a pulse (~-90v - -180v) on it for each revolution of the engine. Tiny tachs, etc, clip onto an ignition wire.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

A kill switch wired to the vacuum cutout will not stop the motor, as the vac-switch was only made to kill one cylinder. If you want to wire up a kill switch, wire two independent wires - one from the post on each set of points. Use an on/open - off/closed switch to shut the motor down. The points will ground through each other when the switch is shut off...<br />- Scott

 

[tranzam]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

Thanks Paul and Scott. The diagram I have shows the kill switch being attached to BOTH coils. I don't want to take the entire armature apart in order to verify this, but it seems there is no other way. I'm showing near zero resistance from the ground to the wire that I believe is the kill wire, but there seems to be a conflict here, since Scott says that the two coils shouldn't be connected together since they would negate each other. If Scott is correct, then a kill switch would be easy to rig, since my ignition switch is has two posts to connect to the magneto, that connect to each other. I assumed one was ground, and the other was to the coil, but it would be simple to change.<br /><br />This provokes a question though... how are you supposed to shut one of these engines down? I mean the manufacturer must have recommend something right?

 

[SeaMasterZ@aol.com]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

if you choke the engine out, youll kill the engine AND get some oil in there to lube the walls up, so I would say just go back and choke er off<br /><br />other than that ... all that stuff paul said ... yep yep, makes sense to me! <br /><br />anyone see that lighting bolt??????

 

[alcan]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

Hi Trans<br />Both Paul and Scott told you right. Basicly ground both sets of points. There were a couple of different methods used depending on the exact model in question. Some had a kill botton on the motor, some on the dash (remote) some both. Some electric start models used mercury switches wired to the throtle linlage. So when you closed the throtle it would kill the motor. Again some rigs used both mercury switch and button. Put your crude electrical system hat on and you will solve this problem fast. The reason the manuals seem vague on this is because that's all there is to it. Don't over complicate this for your self.

 

[SCStripers]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

BANG!! your dead! heheh sorry I am no help on this one

 

[tranzam]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

Thanks Alcan, that's sounding like my setup... it has the mercury switch, plus a wire in the harness that is goes up front, that is supposed to kill it. I guess tomorrow I'll have to pull the coils out and see where the wires are going, and why they aren't working. Much gratitude!<br /><br />-Jason

 

[alcan]

Re: Somebody Kill me! Please!

Hi Trans<br />Just to confuse you some more. Some models use two mercury switches. I believe one is wired to the starting circut. This is to prevent engaging the starter at the wrong setting. A safety thing.