splicing wire

so

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 12, 2007
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170
hi,

I need to re-route the 4 wires going from the main red connector to the terminal block. Here's what I think I should do, pls provide any comments or advice.

1. use marine grade 16 gauge, tinned wire.
2. I'm thinking splicing at mid-length of the wire, so it'll be like this:
old_wire --- new_wire--- old_wire. this way I can keep both ends color-coded. Is this a good approach?
3. use heat shrink tubing on the new connnections.

thanks in advance.
 

tashasdaddy

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51,019
Re: splicing wire

the only improvement if could suggest is match the wire color. other than that your on the right track.
 

burroak

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Mar 29, 2007
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Re: splicing wire

SO,

I feel your pain. I'm at the same point. I have located all the colored wires for rewiring a StarCraft, except for the gray w/blue stripe, gray w/green strip, and the orange w/white stripe. Your approach to splicing is my last resort, also. Unless, someone out there knows of a source for stripe coded wire.
 

Scaaty

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May 31, 2004
Messages
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Re: splicing wire

Correctomundo...just got done splicing a 7 wire Merc harness to a new box..I just used butt connectors (you could solder too), shrink wrap, taped up ..but cut the wires at separate locations so all the splices aint bunched together..every 1 1/2 or so.
 
Last edited:

icy

Seaman
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Feb 28, 2007
Messages
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Re: splicing wire

the problem with butt splices is moisture in the future. its best to solder and use shrink tube to keep moisture out. remember to slide the shrink tube over the wire and slide it up out of the way while you solder the wires together!! even with shrink tube butt splices will gather moisture in them causing problems in the future.
 

so

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 12, 2007
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170
Re: splicing wire

are regular butt connectors (say from home depot) good enough or they have to marine type? They'll be heat-shrink wrapped.

thanks
 

icy

Seaman
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Re: splicing wire

the heat shrink will help to keep moisture out.. its still best to solder but butt splices and heat shrink is much better than twisting and black tape.
 

dsinger

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Aug 6, 2004
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Re: splicing wire

Just me but I solder, coat with boot grease, then shrink ramp with air craft grade shrink tubes.
 

F_R

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Re: splicing wire

If and when you have trouble in the future, and you probably will, it will be at those crimped butt connectors. The best approach is to use uninsulated crimp connectors, then solder them, and finally heat shrink them. If you can't find the uninsulated ones, peel the plastic off the insulated ones with a utility knife, then crimp and solder. Use rosin core solder ONLY!
 

icy

Seaman
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Feb 28, 2007
Messages
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Re: splicing wire

i guess i forgot to mention that part.. acid core will actually EAT the wire over time..
 

reelfishin

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Mar 19, 2007
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3,050
Re: splicing wire

Go to a good automotive or marine electrical shop and get self sealing heat shrink, it has a glue that melts and seals the connection. Like mentioned about, I would only solder the joints. I don't know how much I'd worry about the tinned wire, I just replaced the red plug harness on a controler for a new install of a used motor on a smaller boat and the original wires weren't tinned, just plain 14 gauge copper. They used brush on electrical tape sealer on all connections in the box. This unit was from about 1989.

If you really want to be sure about the connection and make it last, you could paint on the liquid electrical tape then heat shrink with the glue type shrink tube. I've done that on some trailer connections and they've lasted for over 20 years now.
 

Scaaty

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Re: splicing wire

Butt connecters work fine...have then on 30 year old boats, and 30 year old Harley's that have been in more rain than the (i'll leave it up to you). I spray/soak both side in Clearcoat paint, and zero problems.​
 

crb478

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1,036
Re: splicing wire

Put me in the solder and heat shrink camp, and the only other advise would be to stagger the joints so they are not overlapping each other. This way you will not have a fat spot in your wiring harness.
 

ezeke

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Re: splicing wire

Careful now, there are rules.

ABYC:


"11.16.3.7. Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.


EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the conductor.


NOTE: When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint unless adequate additional support is provided."
 

ezeke

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Re: splicing wire

Depends on the application, but not generally laws or regulations. Question: would you like to have soldered connections, wrapped in tape, in the wall cavities of your home? Imagine how much more stress boat wiring is exposed to.
 

BoatBuoy

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4,856
Re: splicing wire

I understand what you're saying and I agree. I just wondered if it was a regulation or not. In my case, it's more an academic issue than some others. My wiring is all run under the gunwale. Since the boat is aluminum, it's a good ground for any shorts and all that will happen is a blown fuse. Granted, if that occurs at a critical time, it could be a problem.
 

ezeke

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Re: splicing wire

Nothing is going to be perfect, but I think Imported F R has the right idea.
 

burroak

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 29, 2007
Messages
651
Re: splicing wire

are regular butt connectors (say from home depot) good enough or they have to marine type? They'll be heat-shrink wrapped.

thanks

Menards has butt connectors with heat a shrink coating. It's a very sanitary look and is bone simple.
 

icy

Seaman
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Feb 28, 2007
Messages
52
Re: splicing wire

If you really look into the solder heat shrink thing, you will find that the heat shrink becomes the second means of support. I would not be a bit afraid to completely submerge a connection made with solder and heat shrink. We use heat shrink on underground wires all the time, that are surrounded by wet dirt, etc etc.. Butt splices with clear coat or epoxy are second best as far as I'm concerned. They will both last a long time.. No matter if you heat shrink or use a quality butt splice its still better to use heat shrink over it rather than tape. I have seen splices with a gel in them that claim to be waterproof. they are, until the gel dries out!! IMHO if you want to use a butt splice make sure to completely coat it with epoxy or heat shrink.. I'm not saying it wont last years but the solder will last longer 9 times out of 10..
 
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