Spring fire up time

[Starcraft5834]

Hope everyone wintered well..... planning on first tying to get her ( 1987 3.0 inline 181) going again myself rather than drag it to a shop. I'd like to first try cleaning the points and cap contacts, I assume I use a fine grit sandpaper between the point contact, and again on the inside of the cap at contact points in there? anything else I should do?
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last spring I just took it to a shop who told me the 6 month sleep causes the points to lose conductivity...which makes sense, so Id rather not toss $ away for something I can do myself... I do have a new tune up kit, point, condenser, cap if need be.. of course I would have to time it again which I don't have the equipment for..(have a friend that does) ..thinking to first use what's there (it's only got one season on it), would not have to time it again if I don't replace anything...thanks for the input, thank God winter's over!

 

[Watermann]

The anything else to do would depend on what you did last fall putting her to bed. Oil change, LU gear oil, fuel filter, clean flame arrestor and replace LU impeller are all maintenance that should be done frequently.

 

[gm280]

How does a set of points loose conductivity just sitting there? That IS a new one on me... :noidea:

 

[gm280]

How does a set of points loose conductivity just sitting there? That would mean every switch, every relay and every other set of contacts would go belly up as well. That IS a new one on me... :noidea:

 

[jimbo_jwc]

Oxidize or go high resistance from humidity and temp change , I always do on first try and fill carburetor bowl from top so it doesn't crank to long .

 

[gm280]

Oxidize or go high resistance from humidity and temp change , I always do on first try and fill carburetor bowl from top so it doesn't crank to long .

jimbo, every type metal, with the exception of gold, oxidizes daily. But I have never ever seen any set of points go bad in six months of setting. That is amazing. Sound like a mechanic telling the unsuspecting customer she needs to replace her headlight fluid... :faint2: :lol:

 

[Watermann]

When I had a points ignition back in the day, I pulled the points out, used a points file to smooth and square them up since sand paper will only smooth them out. Then put the points back in and set the gap. In case you haven't seen them before here's a link to point files at summit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...bLF3ObbKzz4PlwRwilQVchtK8478JKeyAmBoChKTw_wcB

 

[Starcraft5834]

The anything else to do would depend on what you did last fall putting her to bed. Oil change, LU gear oil, fuel filter, clean flame arrestor and replace LU impeller are all maintenance that should be done frequently.

thanks waterman, I will brush the single point up and contacts in the cap and see how it goes...if that fails, will install the new parts with assistance with GM mechaninc friend who's got the old school stuff to set the timing... how does a single point system loose conductivity? sitting 6 months in the frozen north east, going from -20 to 50 will do it, that I can assure you....

 

[stonyloam]

Yeah, watermam is right, get yourself a points file to dress the points. Sandpaper is not a good idea because it can leave grit between the points can can lead to poor contact. Don't worry about the contacts in the cap, they do not really make "contact". The rotor simply gets close to the cap contact and the spark jumps the gap. Just check to see that they are not badly pitted and burnt.

 

[JaCrispy]

How does a set of points loose conductivity just sitting there? That IS a new one on me... :noidea:

I run the original points in my '75 Kawasaki.

 

[Starcraft5834]

update.. installed the Sierra tune up kit for my 1987 3.0 yesterday.. new points, condenser, cap, rotor.... the points in there were also replaced last year, one season wears em down pretty good, not much left there to dress up. for less than $20 installing this kit was the ticket, it fired right up. dwell was good, timing good, little idle adjustment.. done...