Re: Stainless Steel Prop
Capt. Ultra (and all)-<br /><br />Been down the same road recently. I spoke to a number of "authorities" as well as owners who made the switch. I got mixed reviews but decided not to switch to S/S. Interestingly enough, 4 "I don't recommend it" responses came from 3 dealers and one shop that does nothing but prop work! I was willing to pay and put money in these guys' pockets and they basically asked me to reconsider.<br /><br />Here's what I got from the dealers:<br /><br />The prime reasons for switching are supposedly performance and durability. <br /><br />1. DURABILITY_the experts say: If you're not frequently bottoming, durability should not be a problem. The occasional dings and dents are easily corrected on an aluminum prop if it is properly reconditioned.<br />2.PERFORMANCE- the experts say:The reason that S/S "seems" to increase performance is that these props do not flex as much as alum when under load. Flexing effectively changes prop pitch as RPM increases which has an impact on the performance curve. Most conversions to S/S props require a different prop pitch than the aluminum prop, IF THE SWAP IS TO BE DONE CORRECTLY! It is usually more complex than just slapping on a S/S prop of the same diameter and pitch. Also, flexing occurs to a greater extent on the larger diameter props so there are less performance gains on props under 14" in diameter. Every boat and motor combo has different running characteristics (already stated by others). MOST boats will exhibit an increase in performance in some way while losing something somewhere (eg. hole shots might improve while WOT rpm decreases). It is rare for a boat to see improvements in all areas. As already mentioned, you got to keep the motor running as close to factory RPM specs under most conditions!<br /><br />REASONS NOT TO SWAP: The experts say: Weight is an enemy to boats in any form. S/S props will weigh nearly 2.5 times as much as alum. Not really all that much until you consider what happens when you put an idling motor in gear. The motor and related gear train (lower unit) is constantly in motion even in idle. When you put it in gear, the motor is now attempting to move a stationary prop through the engagement of a clutch mechanism. It takes more force to start spinning a heavier prop resulting in greater torque and stress place upon the clutch, clutch dogs and bearings. Inreased wear and tear is the result.<br /><br />Likewise, a heavier prop will spin longer once the motor is put in neutral. When docking or maneuvering in tight areas, you are going to have the heavier prop spin faster and longer in the direction that it was turning. This will still generate thrust in that direction, possibly causing you to overshoot. But what about if that prop is rotating forward and you need to suddenly back down? A lot more stress will be placed on the gear train trying to stop, and reverse the heavier prop. <br /><br />COST- the experts say: The S/S is obviously more costly to install, overall benefits might not justify the cost particularly if you increase the incidence of gear train maintenance/repair.<br /><br /><br />When I spoke to boat owners that made the swap, I basically got positive reponses. BUT no one was able to actually give me "before and after" stats. The responses were along the lines of "it feels quicker", "I think I'm using less fuel", "Steering feels more responsive", etc. Nothing that anyone could actuallly identify and point to.<br /><br />It is important to understand that a swap neeeds to be thought out and a lot needs be taken into consideration. S/S has its positives and negatives just like any other modification or enhancement.<br /><br />After digesting these tidbits from the guys who do this for a living, I decided to keep my stock in ALCOA!<br /><br />I hope this helps!<br /><br />big e<br /><br /><br />TSLTW
<br /><br />Thanks to all!!!