Starcraft deck replacement

[krag]

I've reviewed most of the Starcraft rebuild project threads and most of my questions were answered. I don't think I saw a single project where the bare aluminum hull interior (ribs and skin) were primed with zinc chromate before installing new deck. Is there a reason for this? Having been in the Navy I remember there was never any bare aluminum. Even interior airframe components had Zinc chromate priming at least. I know many recommend Gluvit on the rivets but I don't think the two would be exclusive.

 

[ezmobee]

No need from what I've seen. Only a handful of boats that have come through here have had corrosion issues and those usually were salt boats or spent a long time in the water. Gluvit is supposed to have ZC built in although it didn't adhere real well on my hull long term. If I were to do another I'd probably look into Coat It instead. I'm not with the majority on that one though.

 

[Watermann]

The SC factory doesn't prime or paint any AL that's below deck or covered up. I guess you could if you want to spend the money. Personally I think it's a waste of time (lots of time to prep the surface area properly) and of course money. Why is that you ask? Because where the barrier needs to be you can't get the primer or paint there and that's the areas where the AL makes contact like under the ribs, braces and stringers.

My current project a 1979 SS and the bare aluminum is just as it was 38 years ago. My other 2 boats restored are older and the AL looks the same, pretty much as it did when the boat was made less the shine of new AL.

 

[krag]

I thought it would help against saltwater corrosion but wondered if there was a reason not to do it. Thanks.

 

[krag]

Also, does anyone know the thickness of the strap braces that some boats seem to have across the ribs (others don't). And when they are used is the wood deck riveted to them rather than the rib ends and keel stringer? I suppose it could be screwed also.

The project threads and photos on this site are really great by the way and it's invaluable to be able to ask questions of those who've done them. I've been watching, reading and stalling for about a year and hope to start on my 14' Kingfisher soon. I have started actually, inspecting rivets, wire brushing, cleaning it and refinishing the mahogany console panels and rod holders which had been painted. I'm going to start the deck replacement soon but am strongly considering the aluminum strips. Anyone have a good source for them? Home Depot has square tubing I know... Thanks

 

[jbcurt00]

Use plywood strips if you dont have thin aluminum.

0.04in (18ga) should be thin and easy to work w and thick enough for what you want to use it for.

 

[Watermann]

Are you referring to what we call hull stiffeners or rib end braces? The deck is still riveted down to the rib ends not the braces. Or are you referring to putting down an AL furring strip on top of the rib ends.

 

[jbcurt00]

Since he mentioned riveting the strip to the keel stringer and the rib ends, I took it to mean the plywood deck joining strips that run port to starboard the width of the hull +/-

Not the rib end crack reinforcement pieces.....

 

[krag]

I think I mean what JB is describing. My boat didn't have them but others I've seen here do. They are approximartely 2" wide aluminum strips fastened to the rib ends and spanning over the keel stringer. It would seem like a good idea to make the deck more solid, particularly at plywood joints. The photos I've seen appear like they are heavy gauge, .080 or .086. I don't see how I could rivet them and the plywood to the rib ends at the same time.

 

[jbcurt00]

That may have been what was used during a rebuild, but the originals I had laying in a 15ft Jet and 16ft Jupiter werent thick, they were thin guage.....

Might have to use what you can find locally, thick or thin....

Or use plywood doublers. Many have.

IMO, if you rivet the deck to the rib end, the strips (AL or ply) to the back of the deck on both sides of a seam, esp in a 14ftr, you'll have plenty of support at the seam, deck and deck edges, no real 'need' to rivet the strip to the rib ends.

 

[Watermann]

Oh the thin AL plywood joint strips, yeah I don't reuse those, I use 2" angle AL instead, it's much more rigid.

Rivet a small piece of angle to the side of deck support (what you call a keel stringer) rivet one end of the angle AL joint strip to the support with it cut to length where the AL strip sits on top of the rib just below where the deck is riveted to the rib end.

Can't find a pic showing it exactly but in the pic below you can see a box type support riveted in between 2 deck supports, it works the same with angle. Your boat I think only has one center support rather than 4 like my SS and the aft ply in this boat runs length ways not cross ways (except for bow area) so the ply seams meet on top of the supports.

 

[laurentide]

I thought it would help against saltwater corrosion but wondered if there was a reason not to do it. Thanks.

Unfinished aluminum will form aluminum oxide on its surface, which is a very effective corrosion barrier on its own. If you're going to be in saltwater, a freshwater rinse or use of salt-away or diluted vinegar will help neutralize the base to prevent corrosion. If you're keeping it in saltwater for any length of time you'll need anodes on the hull that are in good shape.

I believe that most corrosion issues on these boats occur when a strong base (saltwater) or acid (low ph water) is allowed to sit in contact with aluminum for extended periods. My boat has spent its 43 years on Lake Champlain, which has a slightly basic ph, so there was minor pitting on the transom interior. Ocean water is a little stronger, but it's not going to eat your boat away if you're trailering it.

 

[krag]

Thanks. I will use it in brackish/salt water in middle Chesapeake Bay and keep it trailered.