Starcraft Mariner MR220 for Project Boat?

[DuayneB]

I am new here and joined because I am thinking very hard about taking on a project boat. I am a lake striper fisherman. We keep 50 gallon plus bait tanks on board and put out planer board spreads. I usually catch bait at the marina but sometimes must go out on the lake to cast for it. I am looking for a decent ride, stable, large, open type boat. The MR220 looks like it could be the right style for what I am looking for. I found a 1986 close by that I have only looked at through pictures and asked a couple of questions. I asked if the floor and the transom had been replaced and he said no, but they are sturdy. I know about the Starcraft curse so I know I am probably in for a new floor, old foam removal and a new transom. All appear to be very doable on this ride but I can't find a specific restore on the 22. It would need other things for sure. I'd completely rewire it, add rod racks and a full enclosure. As I said, I haven't seen the boat in person yet but there doesn't appear to be any major hull scars from what I can see and it appears to be a freshwater boat (but I plan to ask if it moves further). Of course I would leak test it, perform rivet replacements and gluvit the in inside. This would be a bang around boat so it doesn't need to be pretty. Just reliable stable and functional. It currently has an Evinrude 120 VRO on it that I will repower unless there is something awesome and fantastic about this motor that I can't live without. LOL

Questions:
Anyone have any decent experience with the 22? Things I should watch out for, good reasons to talk me out of this hull? LOL

To replace the foam, leave it out, or add something different for floatation. Again, I want a pretty stable boat and I don't know how much floatation would help. I've looked at the dead rise and it appears this boat would cut waves pretty good on the front but it seems to flatten out quite a bit in the back. I spoke with someone who said every Starcraft they've been on tends to lean quite a bit when a guy steps on the side. Any really knowledge on that?

I've watched several similar boat transom replacements but not one of these. Anyone done one of these and if so, anything more special about gaining access or things to know?

Anyone ever hang a trolling motor off one of these things?


More questions and comments to come I am sure and i am open to questions as well!!

Thanks!

Duayne

 

[roscoe]

Welcome to iboats.

Already planning on a ground up rebuild on a boat you haven't even touched yet. very ambitious.

With 600 - 1000 pounds of water and fuel in the tanks, I don't think you will have to worry about the boat listing too much when someone walks to one side.

I've only got a little MR18. Pretty empty and light.
When I ( 200# ) move from center to starboard, hull only tilts an inch.

Definitely want floatation foam for safety, sound deadening, and a good solid feel underfoot.

Interested on your plans.
Full enclosure ???

Got and sketches ?

Keep us updated once you get started.

 

[DuayneB]

Will do Roscoe. It may seem ambitious but to me I am just planning for the worst. LOL I wouldn't mind paying the current asking price but there are so many unknowns with regard to what's going on under the deck. It's just a little risky at the moment. It wouldn't be as risky if I could part things out and recoup my money if I found a bunch of pitting or corrosion once I got into it. Part of my brain tells me I am being too cautious but I don't trust that part very much. Ha!

I really didn't put a lot of stock in the opinion regarding Starcrafts listing but I thought I would ask. As for the full enclosure, its a term we use on our lake quite a bit for a boat that has an 8-10 ft top with clear sides, front and possibly back to enclose the top\cockpit area in bad weather. We fish through some pretty crappy weather in the late fall, winter and early spring. It also makes it nice if you are out in a squall in the summer. My idea might be to shorted the front deck a tad and move the console up some. The front enclosure flap could secure at the base where the front deck meets the floor. I want as much room as possible in the back. The top may be Bimini, but I may have a custom permanent top built that has the rod tower built into it. We use up to 16 rod spreads so a good amount of rocket launchers makes rod storage a very attractive option. I'll see if I have a pic I can post of my current rig in action once I am allowed to post them.

I've done some research and I haven't found where anyone as done what I think I would like to do with the flotation. I would like to add the 2 part stuff, but tack a thin sheet of something (aluminium?) to the ribs so the foam doesn't rest directly on the floor. That way water can flow down below the foam and the foam doesn't have to sit in puddles. I am also considering not taking the foam all the way to the top of the stringers so the flooring has some space and doesn't sit on wet foam, if the foam ever gets wet. I could be easily convinced I would be doing it wrong.. LOL

 

[Watermann]

Welcome aboard :wave:

Some pics of the boat if/when you get it home. What year matters on the type of flotation foam and repairs that may be needed.

Being a Mariner specific rebuild is only from the deck up, everything else is going to be the same as the other models.

 

[DuayneB]

This is a 1986. It looks a little rough but I've seen some of the restores that started out a lot worse.

 

[roscoe]

1986 is good. Wider and better made than some earlier years, imo.
Most of the hulls that have had real issues were from the 72-78 era, if I recall.

What waters do you fish?

If you replace floor, seal the wood properly and you won't have to worry about it touching the foam.

The foam actually firms up the floor/hull structure.

If doing the floor/foam rebuild, leave a large trough under the floor, from console to transom, to run wires, steering, and control cables. I suggest two 4" x 4" troughs, one for cables, one for wires.
A single gets kind of hard to fish things through.
I used a standard aluminum rain gutter in mine, wish it was bigger.

Also, use 5/8 or 3/4" plywood with as many plies as you can find.
Earlier models used 1/2" ply, and was a bit flimsy.

 

[DuayneB]

I fish Lake Cumberland in Kentucky. We don't get a ton of chop but we do get some really big, nasty wakes. Yes, my plan would be to leave the keel line without foam and add two 4" pvc conduits from the helm to the stern. I'd probably locate the cranking\aux batteries to the helm and run all the 12 volt\steering stuff through one tube and the data stuff through the second. I run the lowrance carbon 3D transducer and it seems to really be susceptible to interference. I'd add a tube from the helm to the bow as well. Probably one tube would do. I want future rigging to be a snap. Then run a drain line from the helm livewell that I'd convert to a cooler and maybe some sort of forward floor drain using the same line.

I hope you know that telling me the 86 was a good boat probably cost me $500 more than I was willing to risk. HA!

 

[classiccat]

This thread is 3 days old... and still no pics. I'm starting to smell smoke

:lol:

 

[DuayneB]

I suddenly know how Frankenstein felt. LOL This is the ride I am looking at. I am also still interested in trolling motor mounts. Anyone hang a 60" shaft off one? Or would it need something longer?

 

[Watermann]

Whew, the torches and pitch forks were already coming out!

Nice Mariner, you have a long ways to go before you add that TM. I have a 60" on my 18'r, you're going to have to do some measuring.

 

[classiccat]

Whew...close call...thought you were a gonner! :lol:

That's alot of boat! I love the simplicity and utility of a Mariner. Looks like she spent alot of time outside/uncovered....I see some waterlogged foam in your near future!

 

[DuayneB]

Sadly, the boat sold. I think it's important to walk away from a project like this when you research and the known work (AND possible unknowns) outweigh the initial cost. Maybe I was a little too cautions but the guy wanted $4500 for this boat. Without the full history, an older motor that didn't have much trade in value and knowing the known work that would have to go into it, I felt I couldn't pay more than $3000 for it. Would anyone here start this project for $4500?

I am searching now for this hull or something similar. I love the size of this boat and really didn't want to go much smaller. Let me know if anyone runs across something!!

 

[Watermann]

No 4500 is way too much for a total gut and restore. The motor would also take work I'm sure. Good one to pass on. Most I've paid for a restore boat was 1k.

 

[bchaney]

Yea that price seems high if it needs all the work you said. Be patient, another one will pop up.

 

[classiccat]

that boat was ridden hard and put away wet. Seller did you a favor.

 

[bridgeman213]

Man.. that's the 2nd one I've seen get snapped up in the last 3 weeks, haven't seen one for sale in a long time. There was one on fleabay down in Marathon FL this morning and it musta sold.. ain't on there anymore..I'd love to see one up close, I'm told it dwarfs the 21. Took me 7 months to do my 21 and I've been enjoying it for the last couple years. Great boats

 

[ab59]

There are a couple of auction sites on ebay , boatangel and rawhide sales , that have had A LOT of great prices on boats for a redo. They are for sale in different states and you may find one close enough to you that you could make a great deal on one.
Good luck in your quest . I think that you should have made the guy an offer on the last boat that you could live with. Sure had a nice galvanized trailer under it.