Starcraft Restorers

[viper1]

I can use your help. I have an 87 Starcraft Islander. Im wondering how the bow deck is built. Seems to solid to be just aluminum. Is there some supports in it. Or is it thick marine plywood or what. My deal is I'm installing a pulpit. And i got close to a 2" hole to drill. Is there any thing in there I need to avoid? A support or something? Wouldnt think so but Id feel safer with confirmation. LOL!

 

[jbcurt00]

Um, you have an Islander and can't figure out what's under the bow deck? You don't have access to it before you go to drill a 2" hole thru it?

IIRC, it's a typical Starcraft frame: 1X4's laid on the flat, 1 down the center, 2 each side, 5 total. By 1987 might have changed a little, but if it worked, SC didn't typically change much on these hulls. Might be a T style support, w/ a 1X3 or 1X4 on the flat w/ a 1-1.5" center leg under each one. Not sure whose those were on, but on at least 1, there were T supports. Most aren't their the 1X's laid on the flat.

Lots of great resources in here:
Starcraft Rebuilds and Restorations, they're all here!

Beyond the bow deck supports, you'll learn quite a bit about SC's specifically, and tin boats, tin boat ownership and helpful stuff about working on them.

 

[Watermann]

There's support frame work under the bow deck, I too don't understand why you can't look under yours unless it's covered up? You're going to need to remove the bow nav light and wiring that's about the only thing I would worry about drilling into. There's a piece of wood on the flat, mines a 1x6 that goes from the frame to the point of the bow that has the bow light mounted to it.

 

[viper1]

Well In the cabin it is well covered and finished with cloth too. It would be a real job to remove and put back as nice. I figure on drilling from the top with a hole saw. And the hole will be dead center and 2" in diameter. If thats a 4-6" board I would think that what little integrity i compromise would be made whole by the back up plates I install inside. I will have 4 holes in a roughly 6" pattern, 2 more for the the Cleat, And some more for bolting the pulpit. The bolts will be stainless and bolted thru the pulpit and a back up plate. Squeezing the whole thing together and spreading the stress I figure.
My biggest problem is drilling a hole in my boat. Guess I just needed reassurance. The pulpit will be a welcome addition to a bunch of old men who fish perch. Ass most are unable to pull in the rode. Even with a floating ball set up.

 

[viper1]

OK now the big question. I am installing a plate in the cabin to bolt the pulpit too. My experience with aluminum boats tell me only stainless steel bolts and nuts to prevent corrosion. But my machine back ground also knows stainless is usually no stronger then a junk #2 grade bolt. So now wondering about the bolt material. Diameter and number needed. The windlass has 4 by its self, the cleat has two and the bow roller has 3. also wondering if three down each side is needed as all the others are down the middle.

 

[64osby]

It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to their low carbon content, many stainless steel alloys cannot be hardened through heat treatment. Therefore, when compared to regular steel, the stainless alloys used in bolts are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners.

If you don't think you have enough holding strength you either need more or bigger stainless bolts.