Starter Bolt Seized (Ideas)

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BigDog98

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Nov 12, 2013
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Hi all, hope all is going well. I am in need of a little help with a issue that has bin going on for the past 2 years. My bolt is seized on to the starter and due to improper socket point i seemed to have rounded the bolt off making it virtually impossible to get that last nut out. I have tried everything in terms of heat , special grip sockets etc. My last hope is to get my arc welded in there and try to weld on a fresh nut onto the rounded off bolt and get it out that way. My only problem is that there is no space for me to get under there to even see the bolt ( most of the time i have to take a picture with my phone to see whats going on with the bolt) I think i can make my arc welder fit in that very little space to get it on there. Unfortunately i wont be able to see what i am doing because the starter is underneath the motor and on the port side of the manifold which i have already removed for more space. I think that i can fell it out and get a successful weld on there. My only concern is the flying arcs. Is this a dangerous operation? I plan on putting wet towels everywhere to reduce the risk of catching my boat on fire. What are your opinions. What should i look out for? Dumb idea or smart idea? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank You :facepalm:
 
Bob_VT

Bob_VT

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Your enemy is SPACE or lack of it. I have met only a few mechanics who are small enough to do those things.

If it was me........ I would probably cut the bolt head off it it would allow starter removal and have a stud to work on or I would do the same as you mentioned by welding another bolt head (nut) on there.

How much heat AND PB Buster are you using? Use PB Buster or Kroil or liquid wrench and heat (lots of heat) before I cut anything or welded
 
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Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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That is a gasoline engine, right. Watch out for fuel vapors. I would recommend a serious fan, blowing on the motor (and under it) for several minutes.

BTW, I agree with Bob. It sounds like you will need to weld while blind. That is dangerous. Heat it up, spray with PB Blaster, let her cool. Repeat and then put a vicegrip on it and hope for the best.
 
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airshot

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There is a new tool/socket on the market that is designed to tighten or remove bolts with rounded heads. Have not personally used it but hey...it is advertised on TV so it has to work!! I believe the ad was for Lowes, it was a cobalt tool if my old memory serves me correctly. Something you may want to consider before setting your boat on fire (LOL).
 
Texasmark

Texasmark

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Agree space is your problem but the internet has a ton of info and if you dilligently search you might find something that works. I have a unit from Harbor Freight that has ridges in a circle and a hardened steel squared off pin. The pin is mounted in the direction such that CCW forces force the corner of the squared off pin into the bolt and the ridges around the circumference of the hole in it grip the back side of the bolt.

Agree that fire in that location is a crisis waiting to happen.

Mark
 
Bondo

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Pull the motor, 'n flip it upside-down to work on it,.....

Weldin' inside the hull of a gasoline powered boat, is suicidal,...
 
gm280

gm280

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Obviously not as learned as the other above commenters, If you could post some pictures, I'm sure others can offer some suggestions or ideas about how they did things similar to your issue.
 
smokeonthewater

smokeonthewater

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What Bondo said.... Rarely an I/O starter can be changed in the hull BUT usually and ALWAYS at the first sign of trouble pull the engine... It is MUCH easier than you might think in most hulls.... I put two new starters in my Monte Carlo... Pulled and replaced both engines and the engine room is TIGHT on that one... whole job start to finish was 3-4 hours.... I once had the engine from fully hooked up, ready for the water to out of my old Carver and on the ground in UNDER 15 minutes..... At the time all I had to pull it was a tree and a come-along..... that 15 minutes INCLUDED towing the boat across the back yard and backing up to the tree.


The ONLY good way to fix this one is with the engine out... MIGHT not have to put it on a stand and flip it... May be able to get it hanging over the boat....

power tools, flame, welder, etc are all a HUGE NO NO in the bilge under the engine.... For that matter If you can't get it with hand tools get the engine completely out of and away from the boat.
 
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mr 88

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The socket you are looking for is called a turbo twist.Available through Snap On/Irwin Tools/Mac/Sears/NAPA/etc. They are twisted and tappered internaly so as your turning it the socket will dig into the head of the bolt. They also sell heating "Irons" that wrap around the head of the bolt and are flameless.Techs use them around gas tanks so they don't blow up.Heats them up very quickly and safely for removal with a tubo twist socket...As mentioned,you may just cut the head of the bolt clean off,with a dremel,3'' cut off tool[some have adjustable heads so you can get a good angle on it] or a carbide burr. Once cut off the starter should drop out and you can now get some NEW vise grips[made by Irwin,not some cheap copy],on whats left of the bolt and remove the bolt.
 
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BigDog98

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Yes , I have tried Pb blaster but there is no pont in it. The oil cant go where it needs to because the bolt is upside down and it just drips down into my bilge. I have tried a bunch of things, i got a cutting torch to heat it up and sockets and more things then you can even think of. My only hope is the welding.
 
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BigDog98

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Chris1956 said:
That is a gasoline engine, right. Watch out for fuel vapors. I would recommend a serious fan, blowing on the motor (and under it) for several minutes.

BTW, I agree with Bob. It sounds like you will need to weld while blind. That is dangerous. Heat it up, spray with PB Blaster, let her cool. Repeat and then put a vicegrip on it and hope for the best.
Click to expand...


Thats is what im afraid off. The gas tank is not too far from it.
 
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BigDog98

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airshot said:
There is a new tool/socket on the market that is designed to tighten or remove bolts with rounded heads. Have not personally used it but hey...it is advertised on TV so it has to work!! I believe the ad was for Lowes, it was a cobalt tool if my old memory serves me correctly. Something you may want to consider before setting your boat on fire (LOL).
Click to expand...


I already purchased those sockets. Wont even grab a hold of it. The main problem is that i cant see jack ****
 
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BigDog98

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Bondo said:
Ayuh,.... Pull the motor, 'n flip it upside-down to work on it,.....

Weldin' inside the hull of a gasoline powered boat, is suicidal,...
Click to expand...


Haha , i agree with you, your making this engine removal sound easy.
 
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BigDog98

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mr 88 said:
The socket you are looking for is called a turbo twist.Available through Snap On/Irwin Tools/Mac/Sears/NAPA/etc. They are twisted and tappered internaly so as your turning it the socket will dig into the head of the bolt. They also sell heating "Irons" that wrap around the head of the bolt and are flameless.Techs use them around gas tanks so they don't blow up.Heats them up very quickly and safely for removal with a tubo twist socket...As mentioned,you may just cut the head of the bolt clean off,with a dremel,3'' cut off tool[some have adjustable heads so you can get a good angle on it] or a carbide burr. Once cut off the starter should drop out and you can now get some NEW vise grips[made by Irwin,not some cheap copy],on whats left of the bolt and remove the bolt.
Click to expand...


Ive bought a whole set of vise grips by kobalt and different sizes and nada.
 
Bondo

Bondo

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BigDog98 said:
Haha , i agree with you, your making this engine removal sound easy.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... 'cause it Is,.....

'course, I've got easy access to air tools, hoists, mountains of tools, 'n a few decades of practice,... ;)

Take yer tool kit over there, 'n Prep it for pullin' the motor, that bein' removin' everything that's gotta be removed to get the motor out,...
Pull the drive,... Unhook All the motor Stuff,.... All the bolts, hardware, wirin', plumbin', Everything but the 2 rear motor mount Bolts,...
Loosen 'em, so's they can be lifted by yer fingers, just sittin' in-place,....
Then move the boat to some sorta lift, a hoist in a buildin', or a local Hi-lo operator will do,...
When ya find the Lift, whatever it is, pull the 2 rear bolts, hook up yer chains, 'n pull it out,...
As long as the hull is on a wagon, you can put wheels under the motor, 'n fix it where ever ya gotta,....
 
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BigDog98

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Bondo said:
Ayuh,.... 'cause it Is,.....

'course, I've got easy access to air tools, hoists, mountains of tools, 'n a few decades of practice,... ;)

Take yer tool kit over there, 'n Prep it for pullin' the motor, that bein' removin' everything that's gotta be removed to get the motor out,...
Pull the drive,... Unhook All the motor Stuff,.... All the bolts, hardware, wirin', plumbin', Everything but the 2 rear motor mount Bolts,...
Loosen 'em, so's they can be lifted by yer fingers, just sittin' in-place,....
Then move the boat to some sorta lift, a hoist in a buildin', or a local Hi-lo operator will do,...
When ya find the Lift, whatever it is, pull the 2 rear bolts, hook up yer chains, 'n pull it out,...
As long as the hull is on a wagon, you can put wheels under the motor, 'n fix it where ever ya gotta,....
Click to expand...



This all sounds fun but the problem is that i dont have a trailer for the boat and its sitting on blocks right now with no space to get anything in there because the back of the boat is backed into a brick wall with only 4 feet of space in between. :blue:
 
W

WickedFast1

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Jul 31, 2014
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The problem with heat on a starter bolt in the bolt is nearly 4 inches long. you'll have to heat the block where the threads are, outside bolt no problem! the inside bolt,well that's a whole other ballgame, I would cut the head off and then heat the bolt near the block, spray it with your oil of choice and spin it out.
 
B

BigDog98

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Nov 12, 2013
Messages
525
Bondo said:
Ayuh,.... Minimumalistic, but it worked,...
Click to expand...

One problem. How am i going to get the motor down? Its a 10 foot drop from the gunnel of the boat and the wooden hoist would have to be about 5 feet higher then the boat. I would not trust the redneck hoist to hold it in mid air while i work on it. Any input?
 
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